Tuesday, December 29, 2009

More to learn.

Well last we talked I was in Hueco having the time time of my life.

Well not much has changed. Expect the weather today. It's snowing and cold.

But it dries fast here so I'm not worried about tomorrow.

I've learned that my blog isn't an 8a reporting site so I won't go into details about who sent what or how hard anything is.

Just imagine I'm in a room full of giants and their all in top form.

A little humbling let me tell you. Whether it be some dude who can campus better than I can climb who decides that hanging from a small crimp is the best solution for the problem rather than wasting time finding feet or that some of the hardest problems in the park are a one day affair.

I'm having a killer time here. Though I did have to move from camping out at the rocks. We as a collective whole were robbed. They took stoves, tables and wet wipes? But not my minus 20 sleeping bag so I'm all good.

Well one week to go. I'll post pics when I get back to the true land of the free!

Peace from the middle east... America.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Quick update!

Howdy from Texas!

I'm writing this from a Carl's Jr!

Free Wifi!

So I've been in Hueco a week now. Good times.

The problems are longer than I remembered, should have worked on my power endurance.

So my first day here I managed to finish off my project from four years earlier. It's good to see some progression in my climbing.

I've now been on more tours in one week than my whole last trip. I went to west on my second climbing day. We warmed on Starpower and then went to Best of the Best which is a super cool long ass problem. I spent the first hour figuring out the crux then spent the next hour falling off on jugs at the end. So pumped, so tired. R Our tour was super cool. Thomo took us out along with some other friends so basically we had the run of the park. We finished off the day on disposable heros. Here is tall as hell. TD fired the stand with little drama while I fell off over and over again.

The next day I rested. The next day I climbed on East mountain with Pete, TD and Rich. I got my first taste of Full Service. It's bigger than I remembered and longer and harder. I managed all the moves except holding the big swing. That feels super hard. I think I can do it... It's going to be a battle. I hope I get enough days on it. I have no doubt my broken partner back home when healthy would crush it post haste.

The rest of that day I spent getting spanked on classics in East. Who would have thought it would be this warm in December in West Texas. Feels like high teens or low 20's.

So Yesterday I went to east spur. We tried the Scream and Bathtub. I think Bathtub is more likely than the Scream. Pockets aren't my strong point. Both super cool problems.

I'll write more later. For Now I say
Adios amigos
from West Texas!

Friday, December 11, 2009

It was the night before Hueco...

Leaving bright and early tomorrow morning!

Super psyched. I'll try and update frequently. With Pics and vids.

I'll try and not break anymore classics while I'm down there... But I can't make any promises!
With all this training my power levels will most likely be off the chain!


Saturday, December 5, 2009

One week to go!

Well trainings over. Now I have a week to rest up a bit.

Too bad Squamish is going off the hook this week! I climbed yesterday and it was awesome. Crisp and dry. How good was it? I did Ol' Gite second try. I'm going to head up tomorrow with the Chung brothers and try and get a ton of volume in.

Hueco took a small turn for the worst. One of my main climbing partners broke his leg on Wednesday. Bubbles is down for the count. Spiral fracture of the tibula. He was down in Yosemite working Midnight Lightning when the tricky mantle decided to spit him off. A bit of a weird fall and trip over. Pretty bummed for the big guy. But on a happy note this means a better chance of seeing a new Squamish Climbing Magazine sooner.

I'm going to try and do running updates of the Hueco trip. Though it will be all dependent on TD and if he lets me use his computer... I'm taking my camera down and TD has an HD video camera so maybe we can get some footage of some of the ascents going down.

Can't wait! Though Squamish is super awesome right now too. So those not going better get out this weekend and enjoy the crisp temps.

I'd have some photos from yesterday but all the guys I climbed with are lazy with their uploads!


Seacrest Out!

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Remember when I said...

That climbing wasn't extreme?

Well I still stand by that statement, however I just watched this Youtube clip of freaking Dean Potter again.

I don't think I need to say too much more on this.

So 24 days till I leave for Hueco! The next two weeks is time to really go hard in my training.

That means more abs! The terrible type, the vomit inducing type. More finger board work and now some endurance work too. Hueco's problems are generally longer the Squamish ones.

Oh I got out this last weekend to climb in Squamish. It was raining like crazy here in Vancouver, but we said whatever. Turned out to be a pretty fun day. I tried my hardest to steal Chapman's Project and landed on my head for my trouble.

I got a flash of that kid breaking his ankle in Rummey when I fell. You can watch the video on DPM.

Jay Smith with spotters... MC's photo.


Thursday, November 12, 2009

One Month To Go!

Tick Tick Tick!

Just a quick note: One month to go. Two more weeks of weighted dead hangs. Three weeks of weights left, 2400 sit-ups, 1000 more pull-ups and two months till I get my 10% yogurt back!


Friday, November 6, 2009

Two Minute Abs!

Well it's been a little while since I gave you a training update.

Since we last spoke I've been training hard! Okay not hard compared to you guys but hard for me.

I've been climbing indoors four days a week and doing weights on top of that as well. The biggest gains I've noticed are weighted pull-ups. I've been doing enough weight were I can only do a maximum of three to four reps. But then when the weight comes off.... It's still three or four but they are a lot easier. Anyways the point of weighted pull-ups is not to make you stronger but to make you recruit as close to 100 percent of your muscle fibers. Feels awesome and makes you look like a bad ass in the gym. At least it would if my training partner didn't use more weight then I do. He looks like a bad ass. I just look pathetic beside him... I say short arms, doesn't have to pull as long.


I've been doing this finger board workout that involves taking as much weight as you can handle while holding a 18mm crimp for ten seconds. The gains are supposed to be huge from this work-out. So far my hands just feel really tired.

On top of everything I've given up white flour and refined sugar as well as all dairy. I'm now 12 pounds lighter... and really grumpy... haha!

My good friend Rich went on a surf trip to El Salvador and caught a parasite causing him to lose close to 20 pounds. He told me he feels stronger than ever. So I've ordered a case of their drinking water. I mean sure he's throwing up and can barely hold a meal down. But the guy is looking good on the campus board.

With Hueco fast approaching I'm trying not to rush the trip. For the simple reason that I have more time to go before I get there then I do actually being there. If I rush this next 5 weeks my four weeks in Hueco will fly by as well.

It is self-evident that I'm psyched for this trip. A whole crew for us are going to be down there. As the count goes Tim, TD, Rich, Thomo, Pete, Vince, Sam and myself and maybe Brent. Should be a lot of laughs.

Today I'm thinking of resting a bit but am going to throw in a ab workout. Along with interval running at the Y. I've been challenging people to one on one in basketball. I say if I beat them they have to race me in wind sprints. I'm undefeated in one on one... but 0 and 50 in races won.

My ten years of no running has made me slow as hell. That and bullying children in basketball makes my ego huge!!! Haha.

Hopefully before I go I can have one good day in Squamish. I really enjoy the winter temps and I have a problem I cleaned off to do before any of my snakey friends catch wind of it.


Friday, October 23, 2009


Another confession:

I think about grades... a lot.

The idea of grades is quite interesting if we could expand on them a bit.

I'd like to run some experiments where you test a climbers overall strength along with weight, reach and experience.

It's interesting for me to watch a climber at the gym doing pull-ups, dips, campusing, dead hangs and compare them to another climber who has climbed the same amount of time but who does not spend the time training as above. Sometimes the non-trainer climbs harder grades.

Lets put it like this. If someone can do twice as much pull-ups, twice as much dips, is better at campusing but ends up climbing two grades lower, what is the reason?

Is climbing about grip strength? Does technique matter most?

Or is it a mental aspect that makes grades attainable for some and not others?

I know of climbers who can do one-arm pull-ups but haven't cracked double digits. Seems strange to me because I always felt like finger strength and lock off ability make for strong climbers.

The best climbers in the world are not necessarily the best athletes in the sport.

So what makes a strong climber?

My theory is muscle recruitment. The best use everything at once, they push their bodies to as close to one hundred percent as possible.

Chris Sharma Pachamama 9a+ from Campblog on Vimeo.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Old Video

Found this video on my hard drive.

Thought I'd throw it up to get you all psyched.

I didn't film this, but when I watch this I'm amazed a little man can jump this high!

Be on four.

If you want to know the history of the name of this problem, feel free to ask me if you see me in the forest. It's funny but not appropriate for a family blog...

Friday, October 16, 2009

Ticking Clock

Hueco Tanks is slowly approaching.

I'm leaving for my Christmas break on December 12th for three weeks of some of the best bouldering North America has to offer. I'm a little worried about this trip. The last time I was in Hueco I had one of my best climbing trips ever. I have a ton of expectations.

I haven't exactly made a list of problems I want to do but there is one I'd really like to do.

Most likely completely unrealistic. But I really want to do "Full Service". It was one of the first hard problems in Hueco and the first boulder problem rated V10. There's a little bit of history there and I'd like in a small way to be a part of it.

I have a dream list in my mind of problems I'd like to do before I'm too fat or too old to climb hard.
  • Midnight Lightning (Yet to visit)
  • Full Service (Tried for an hour 4 years ago)
  • Ride the Lightning (Squamish's version of Midnight)
  • Big Boss (A classic of the big four in Font)
When I was in Font I made a point to climb all historic firsts that I could.
First 5a Digital, first 6a La Maria Rose, 7a Joker, first 8a... ya right.

So over the next two months I'm training harder then I ever have before. Weights four days a week and climbing every other day. Or even two days in a row.

I watch Progression recently and if you haven't seen it well you're missing out. Watching Patxi train is sick. 3 months without a rest day. 2500 moves a day for endurance, campusing, hangs weight belts and a ton of other madness. Got me completely psyched. A new friend of mine told me Patxi increased his fitness by 5 grades by training like this. Amazing.

So it's on. Two months to go. Time to do some situps and dead hangs.


Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Song Stuck in My Head.

You ever get a song stuck in your head?

I've been listening to this song over and over to get it out of my head, but it's yet to cure it.

I find blog posts are a lot like songs replaying in my head. I think about them a lot until I finally either write it down or bang my head on the wall until my mind goes blank.

Lately I've been replaying my first meeting with Chris Sharma in my head.

He came to town to promote Dosage 1 and I went to see the movie and hear him speak after the fact. In Dosage he climbs Realization. A route he tried nearly a hundred times. I could relate to that even though I've never really committed to a route which is as involved as that. Seeing as I only boulder it was cool to imagine hiking 45 minutes up hill, doing forty some odd moves only to blow the crux over and over.

One of the main reasons I really got involved in climbing was after watching Rampage. When I saw Sharma climb it looked super fun.

After watching him climb Realization, myself and the rest of the audience were pumped. Chris had just gotten back from walking across Japan where while away he learned to play the flute. He played for a short while and at first I thought this seemed a little strange but once I realized he was quite good it was pretty cool. Needless to say we were all a little star struck.

After the show Chris stuck around to sign autographs. Myself and a friend decided we'd go up and say hi. I was going to say thanks for the show and it was pretty cool. My friend on the other hand went off the deep end.

How it went down.

Me. "Hey cool talk, congrats on the big send."

Chris "Thanks man."

Me "Looks like Squamish is going to good tomorrow. You should come up, it's going to be prime."

Chris "Really? You think it will be dry?"

Me "For sure."

Chris "Might just happen."

My friend ".... I just wanted to tell you your my hero. And you inspire me. I love you man."

Awkward silence.

Chris "Thanks man."

Well I made a run for it. Because the truth was while my friend might of aired his feelings a little too much, he was speaking what the rest of us were thinking. But in my mind he destroyed any chance of Chris seeing us as cool guys that would get to climb with him.

Well the next day I went climbing in Squamish. As I was walking by the Octagon boulder there was a huge crowd. Chris was trying an undone project while 30 people stood around and watched. I felt sorry for him. But not enough not to get into the mix. I mean a chance to see Chris climb in real life was too much to pass up. As I pushed my way through the crowd for a better vantage someone said:

"Hey Matt, get in there and spot him, the top-out's dodgy."

So I walked forward. Not only was I going to get to watch him climb but in a small way I was going to be apart of it. Man I was psyched.

Chris sent after a few more tries and even discussed beta with me as he was working it out.

Pretty cool experience. I know it seems a bit lame but if Micheal Jordan was shooting jump shots and someone said get in there and fetch rebounds for him I would jump at the chance. In a way it was very much the same with Chris.

That and he was cool about the whole thing the day before. Either that or he was thinking with all these people watching I wasn't going to tackle him and try and get a lock of his hair.

Climbing is one of the few sports where the top athletes are super accessible to the average climber.

In my travels I've been very lucky to meet and see most of the top boulderers climb that I've looked up too.

Remind me later to tell you about the time I pretended I didn't know who Fred Nicole was and got to watch him climb one of the hardest boulders in the world.


Saturday, September 19, 2009

The Return!

I'm back! Sorry for falling off the map. I'd like to say I've been super busy and every time I tried to write a blog something major came up, but that rings false. Lets face it. I was watching youtube videos or bad movies like "The Room".

In the last month I drove up to the Yukon for a visit, got engaged, and started school for the fall semester.

My visit to the Yukon was good. Climb-wise not so much. I wanted to check out a bunch of the climbing areas in northern B.C. along the way up to the Yukon but most of it fell through. The Ruth lake boulders were so unimpressive I didn't bother putting on my shoes. And the boulders outside Prince George were soaking wet due to a super heavy rain storm.

In the end I didn't climb until Janelle and I made it to Whitehorse.

I did manage to pull one over on Janelle by springing a sudden marriage proposal on her along the way up north. Sure we haven't been dating that long but I say why wait when you know you've met the one.

Oh on a side note if you want a trip with your girlfriend to go well it's not a bad idea to have jewelery on hand to keep spirits high.

In Whitehorse we stayed at Boréale Mountain Biking. It consist of super nice boutique yurt accommodations with really cool owners that just happen to be some of my best friends. Great hosts but be warned, people in the Yukon love food and drink so except your waist line to grow if you head up for a visit. Unless of course your biking all day or climbing regularly.

The weather in the Yukon was cold! Flat out. Everyone I talked to went on and on about having the best summer in recent memory. Too bad Janelle and I only saw rain and icy temperatures.

I did manage a few days climbing while we were up there. The Rock Gardens are worth a visit. It offers a few boulders but mostly its a single pitch crag area with most of the climbs being top ropes. I climbed all the boulders that I could find with most of them being really nice moderates. I don't know what type of rock it was but it was different from anything I've climbed on before. Sort of like granite but without crystals and with a tiny honey comb texture. Very grippy too bad there wasn't more and with big roofs!

I also managed to borrow a four by four thanks to Marsha's (owners of Boreale) mom and we got to go out to the Ibex Valley. It's a pretty bad road needing some pretty big clearance. The Audi wouldn't have made it.

Having been to the Ibex 9 years earlier I really wanted to try some of the problems that shut me down all those years ago. I learned a couple of things. One I still am the worlds worst mantler and I have better foot work so some things are easier but I need to do more dips. I manage every problem except on stupid mantles. Which I fall off about 20 times before giving up.

The Ibex is a beautiful climbing area which makes you feel completely isolated. So if you want to climb in a super exotic area it might be the place for you. Not a lot of problems. But enough for a couple of days for sure.

The trip back to Vancouver was a bit epic. It's closer to drive to L.A. then Whitehorse from Van. But in one day we saw 5 bears two moose and bison. The scenery is world class though which beats the hell out of the I5 any day.

Well now that I'm back in Van its time to get my train on. I have Hueco Tanks coming up at Christmas and this trip I'd really like to do Full Service. I know that's a lofty goal but I think it's attainable. I've been doing a weight program along with an ab routine that has been making my abs hurt for days afterwards.

I'll post photos of the bouldering up north. I left my camera cord in the Yukon so I have to wait until it gets here to finish up loading the rest of photos.

Talk to you guys again soon.


Wednesday, August 19, 2009

New List and New Assignment

Howdy Kids!

New list for you Squamish rock feigns to devour. The Squamish Terrors list was a huge hit. Exactly one person attempted it. So I thought I'd kick it up a notch with an even harder meaner list.

Say Hello to "The Impossible 7"

  • Square Cut Low
  • Quick Stick
  • Sniper
  • Vitamin D
  • Shakedown Sit-down
  • University Crawl
  • Pat's Problem up and left of Mr. Bigglesworth
I would love to hear about anyone who does these 7 problems in a day. You'd be the man! Or Woman! The challenge has been thrown down. Can anyone pick up the gauntlet?

Oh and in other news I'm heading up to the Yukon tomorrow for some travel, laughs and maybe a bit of bouldering along the way. Squamish Climbing Magazine asked me to do a trip report of the bouldering in Ibex. So I hope to get some good photos and interesting stories.

Till next time.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Are you a climber?

So here I am just minutes from midnight doing what I do most...

No not that!

Ok fine, doing what I do second most,


Anyways, I was thinking what it took to be considered a climber. And what defines a climber. Sorry, but grades don't really imply here. I was thinking about being a climber -- I mean a real climber, not that guy you meet at a party that inevitably says he's a climber too when your introduced as one. You know who I'm talking about. The guy who's done a few top ropes at the gym, 3 times tops. That guy isn't a climber.

Sorry, but he isn't. Now if he top ropes at the gym all the time and is passionate about it then fine he can be a climber.

But the guy I always meet is just some dude who wants talk about being extreme. Climbing isn't extreme!

Ok fine, Dean Potter you're extreme and like three other guys who are more crazy than anything.

Anyways back to the topic at hand.

Passion. Being a climber is about passion. To love something so much that it becomes all consuming. Here is an example; you have every holiday for the next year booked on a climbing trips. Then you're a climber. Or you drive across town in 40 below to climb at the local gym because you got stay in shape for climbing season. Then you're a climber and a nut job.

I climbed two years before I really thought of myself as a climber and less of a poser loser. Which I sometimes fall back into.

Now I'm not saying I didn't have passion, no far from it. I went a little over board when I first started climbing. I climbed one day at Flemming Beach in Victoria then went on a week long climbing trip to Squamish. Came back to Victoria packed up my stuff and moved to Squamish and climbed the next 32 days in a row.

For the record I didn't know you were supposed to take rest days. I got invited on a road trip to Smith Rocks with the two guys who talked me into climbing for the first time. They thought I'd gone off the deep end.

But still I wasn't a climber, not by my strict sense of what a climber is. I don't know what it was but when I looked at the other guys I climbed with I didn't feel I was one of them yet.

Yes I wore a toque even in the summer, yes I started skipping showers, yes I started neglecting the opposite sex. Hell I even contemplated moving into a van, but I still didn't make the cut.

So what made me a climber?

Janelle and I decided to go on a two month climbing trip to France. We set up our tent in Font and didn't move it the entire time. We climbed like crazy, I finally picked up some foot work, but I wasn't a climber when we got home but I felt myself getting close.

The day I became a climber I remember very well. Because I remember thinking this is it; no longer a poser. I sent my project which I had worked for a full year. And it wasn't the send, it was the glowing feeling of success that I got from it. Something I'd yet to experience to that extent. It was my passion rewarding me for my hard work.

Being a climber is taking the disappointment of not sending and still climbing. Being a climber is obsessing about something so completely that you can't sleep because you're thinking about it. Being a climber is finally succeeding.

I'm interested in what other people think of this. Throw it back at me if you think I'm wrong.

Because I believe being a climber means you've joined an exclusive club where you had to earn your way in.

Anyways hope to see you in the boulders tomorrow.


Monday, August 10, 2009

Quitting Climbing!


No, not really.

I just finished reading the latest Gripped magazine with the article about Thomosina Canada's top female boulderer. Pretty good article with photos from my good buddy/snake Mike Chapman.

(I won't get into the snake part... but Chapman's projects will be available with topo's and directions upon request.)

Anyways, where was I?

Oh yes quitting climbing.

In the article Thomo talks about getting so frustrated that she often quits climbing. Only to come to her senses, usually this realization takes about five minutes.

Well this got me thinking. Why do people quit climbing? I mean there are legit reasons: legs fall off, move to place with no rock or gym, die, plenty of reasonable reasons. Why is it I know five dudes that were sitting on the winning lottery tickets and never cashed in.

Jordan Wright -- a friend of mine -- who just gave up a sport. He was in the one percentile. Here's some facts. He climbed 5.14c, bouldered V13 and won the National championships. A few weeks back after not climbing for a full year climbed Viper with no warm up.

Now I know what your thinking; Big deal Viper! I mean phish that's like V5 whoopie do! Stop, and think about this. Could you go home now sit on your couch for a year, not climbing ever, no hangs, no pullups, then have a friend call you up to hang out. So you bring your brand new super down turned shoes you haven't yet broke in. Then just jump on Viper and climb it with relative ease?

I don't think so fatty!

Vince Chung, campusing climber extraordinaire, just up and quit climbing. Here's a guy that could do everyone of the hard problems I've done in ten years probably in his first few weeks of his climbing. I have no doubt I could call up Vince and he could climb them all in a day or two if he wanted now without climbing for like two years.

Nick Gibbs, Squamish powerhouse, and early developer. This guy was climbing harder than just about everyone is now. And he was doing it as the big fish with no one else to climb with. He up and quit. I hear legends about him doing one arm pull ups on crimps I can't even hold with two feet on.

I met a guy the other day, Mitch. He stopped climbing when he was climbing double digits regularly. I was like what the hell? I'd kill to climb hard.

Oh and it doesn't work drinking the blood of other strong climbers. It doesn't make you stronger. Sorry Vince. Lesson learned.

Stu Worrall, strong climber, major Squamish developer, has just cashed in his chips. Don't know who he is? Pick up your guide book look up the classics and you'll find his name.

So what makes some dudes quit?

Is there chance I can out wait everyone and be the best? I mean that's my only chance.

I'm competitive I'll admit it. I'm also not delusional to think that my pullups and crunches are going to make me the best. I mean I did do like ten this week... combined... with breaks... over a couple of days.

But I might be able to be the best in my catagory. 6'3, 200 pound guys from the Yukon, in Squamish. Maybe just maybe I won't have to quit climbing like those other guys. And I can hang on because I love this sport and not worry about what others are climbing.


Saturday, August 1, 2009

Squamish Climbing Magazine!

Check out the brand spanking new Squamish Climbing Magazine.

My boy Bubbles has worked his butt off to put together a stunning new piece of work.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Never Over Stating!

I don't like to over hype things in life. I like to keep it real.

So when I say this I want you to understand the importance of this news.

  • Human Control of Fire 400,000 years ago
  • The Wheel discovered 3700 BC by the Mesopotamia
  • Algebra invented by ancient Babylonians
  • Penicillin discovered 1928 by Alexander Fleming

Major discoveries in the history of mankind. Now I bring forth the fifth and most important!

The "I" boulder! How will this boulder change history the same way the other listed above?

Only time will till.

However with 7 new problems and potential for many more this might even have far greater implications then I can list here.

Now to record a little history about this new boulder. Like many great discoveries, I was lost when I stumbled on the boulder. Like Columbus I thought I'd found something different than what it was. I left soon after to try to meet up with my group but knew I had found something special.

A few weeks later coming back with my good friend Mike Chapman we set about cleaning what we hoped would be an awesome problem. Instead we found much much more. First problem up was the super cool "I" squeeze overhang. Then TD joined the party adding a hard sit-start to the "I" and another gem to the left called "Tip Toe". The following day Meshkat, Mike, Bubbles and myself head back adding four more gems. "Row Boat", "Love Boat", "Mast" and "The Mustache Slabs".

When we finish off the last of the classics, I'd be happy to take any willing parties to check out a new out-of-sight boulder.

Bubbles sailing to the second ascent of "Mast"
Photo Courtesy of Meshkat Javid

Saturday, July 18, 2009


Anyone who knows me knows that I love a good challenge. Not necessarily a challenge for me to do, but coming up with one for someone else and then insistently bullying them into doing it. Yesterday was another one of those days. Seeing how the weather in Squamish was just shy of boiling, climbing hard projects was near impossible. So we decided to do a points day.

A points day for those who don't know is when you add all your V grades to see how many points you get. i.e. V1 equals one point and so forth. The all time record I've heard of is 307 points in a day without repeating any problems.

Yesterday started off with a bang for me. I had 39 points in under an hour. I was on my way to a decent score, when an old enemy showed up and shut down the day. That's right, my bicep tendinitis is back... Damn!

So instead I spent the next couple hours laying on my back and forcing people into climbing various problems I deemed interesting or exciting. Injury bullying if you want to call it a name.

The points game didn't make it that far what with the scorching hot weather, swelling feet and fingers. So a few hours later everyone had given up on the day and were just hanging out at the black dyke boulder. That's when I decided to throw out an open challenge. How many times could you climb Viper in an hour. I thought 20 would be difficult. But it would get you an unofficial 100 points. No one seemed interested. No matter how much I bullied or used psychological tactics. But finally one guy broke down and decided to give it a go.

T.D. said he'd do it if for nothing else to shut me up about the whole thing and the rest of them could rest in peace. So he started off climbing the problem at an average of 13 seconds a go. I thought he'd slow down but after climbing it exactly the same for the next hour he managed to climb it 60 times with no falls and only one beta change. The rest were almost like I was watching a loop of viper over and over.

Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip. Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip. Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip.

Over and over.

The gauntlet has been thrown down. 60 in an hour. On one of the hottest days in recent memory.

Also 300 points in the quickest possible way...

Though offical points rule states: no repeats.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Autobody Video

Autobody from Matt Lucas on Vimeo.

Tim happened to catch this ascent on film. Hope you enjoy seeing a giant on a tiny problem.


Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Can you dig it!

Problem X finally goes down! Booya! For those of you who haven't figured it out, problem X is "No Troblems".

Yesterday Janelle and I drove up to Squamish to spend the night in the campground. We are thinking about moving back to Squamish and decided to see what its like to commute so I picked her up from work and drove up at 5. It took 45 minutes with the highway not yet 100% complete. Not bad...

This morning we woke to a super beautiful day. We headed down to the local coffee shop and bought a couple tea mistos. We then took a walk around downtown while we waited for the Canada day parade. Squamish seems like easy living, let me tell you. Right now we're weighing the pro's and con's of Squamish living. Squamish sure put it's best foot forward.

After the parade Janelle and I headed up to the boulders. I took a really long time warming up. But instead of following Thomo, Dave, Regan and the rest of the gang I thought I felt pretty good. So Janelle, Meshkat and I headed over to "No Troblems". I set up pads and brushed the holds and decided that this would be the try. Each move from first to last flowed. No battles, no worries. I punched the jug and knew that I wasn't going to fall. This was my best send in as long as I can remember. Its a glowing ball of happiness that I hope to hold on to for as long as possible.

Thanks to all the people who spotted me.

Problem X, Y, and Z are all put to bed... but like a bad horror series, three new monsters reared their ugly heads! No rest for the wicked. Friday the new battle begins.

Stay tuned!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Do you think your Kung Fu can defeat me?

Quick Squamish update:

Today, in a truly amazing feet, Rich Kupskay sent "Kung Fu" in the Clean Boulders. After battling the problem over a hundred tries today he finally succeeded.

There has been a rumor going around that I only use this blog to brag, so I won't mention that Rich wouldn't have sent without my key beta. I will say that he showed exceptional fortitude to finally succeed.

Friday, June 26, 2009

All hail the Miura VS!

Today I went to Climb-On and bought a new pair of Miura VS with problem X in mind. I've been super close but my heel has been progressively peeling. I thought a new shoe might do the trick. Sadly I have the bottom extremely wired but the top keeps dashing my dreams of success.

A little turned off from my lack of success with problem X I met up with TD and filmed a him doing a bunch of problems on the AM boulder. Maybe it was seeing some super hard problems go down easy or maybe it was a nice rest, but after that we walked over to problem Y. We were a bit short in the pad department so falling would not be an option. I pulled on and for once everything went right. Success! Problem Y went down.

Super psyched about sending Auto-Body it didn't feel that hard just foot dependent. I'm going to chalk this up to my new Muira heel and toe. They stuck like glue and I managed not to screw it up.

Pretty gravy day. Sure I didn't do problem X but Auto-Body went down and so did a few other classics as well. All and all a pretty good day.

Right now I'm going to grow some skin and maybe just maybe I might get lucky on Sunday and finally put problem X to bed.

Photo courtesy of Jamie Chong.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

So you wanna be a rock star!

You like all the fame and glory that goes with sending highballs. Just know there are consequences.

Any one wanna try and come up with a flashy title for this pic?

I was thinking: This is what happens when you swallow a softball.

Oh and not my ankle. But I did carry the dude out of the forest.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Problem Z goes down!

Finally some success to talk about here on the old blog!

Today I managed to put to bed a project that I had a lot of trouble on.

Problem Z aka Bates Motel.

Bit of a battle today as my skin was thin and sweating like crazy.

However I managed to fight the temps and send.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without some great spots from TD and the rest of the cowboys.

I single out TD because he took the people's elbow to the top of the head. I almost knocked him out but he managed to regain his barrings and give a great spot.

Now it's back to project X and Y.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Interesting ideas

So I was trolling the web when I came across an interesting video.

I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?

If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).

Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!

Maybe I'll see you up there.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009


(photo by Mike Chapman) Awesome representation of Squamish bouldering.

Okay, I know alright. I've been lazy yet again.

I talked about putting up a video but after further review I couldn't bring myself to post it.
The footage is terrible. It was shot with my digital camera (hand held) in a dark forest. So just imagine it was awesome and we'll all leave without disappointment.

So my other promise which I haven't voiced on here, but will do now is...

I'm working on a topo of one or two of my lists. So if your all good boys and girls this might happen in the next few days.

Quick update on project X and Y; came devastating close on project X. Ever get to a move where all you have to grab the jug and all your dreams will come true? I've been there ten times now. Some people would think that it was just a forgone conclusion, sadly I'm the opposite type. I worry that every failure is an opportunity that got away and who knows how many more I have left. I'm going up again tomorrow and I'm going to give it another go. 30 degrees will make it tough but for some bizarre reason I think that if I do it in this heat it will be a champion send.

Oh and a new project might be rearing it's ugly head as well. Project Z just joined the party. I don't know if it was because of the 30 degree weather or if I enjoy trying problems alot. Cool problem though. Might be a soul shatterer if I don't do it next day.

I'm going to make a promise to myself. Start cleaning up these problems now cause its no more mister nice guy! People tell me I climb silent but maybe it's time to put some growl in these attempts!

Oh and I met some cool Austrialians yesterday who have started up a website for people looking for climbing partners. I thought a few of my friends could use this service to meet girls but apparently it's not that type of site. ;-)


Saturday, May 23, 2009

The Block

It's been a long time since I last posted. I've been climbing quite a bit but sadly I've come to an abrupt halt in my sending. I don't know what it is or why it is but I can't seem to climb anything.

I don't know if this happens to the rest of you? Or if this is just my mental block.

I will profile two problems: I'll call the first one Problem X and the second Problem Y.

Problem X I've been working on now for close to six months. Coming close to sending in the first week. I have done all the moves and have done large sections in links. However after trying the problem almost every climbing day for two months I had yet to send. So I took a break from trying it when the winter rains kicked in. Sadly while climbing indoors I hurt my finger and wasn't able to try the problem in prime conditions. Now that my finger is back, I went out yesterday and tried the Problem X again. Coming within a move of finishing the hard climbing. My fingers tickled the jug which ends the hard climbing and allows for a bit of rest for the easier finish. After a rest day I headed back to finally send the problem. Sadly it wasn't to be a move I found easy the day before all of sudden became very difficult. I don't know why this is or what the heck is going on.

Problem Y is another problem that is proving to be even more frustrating. I tried this problem with the urging of some friends. I figured it was hard and I'd get nowhere. However after watching a friend climb it and getting a full beta spray down I decided to give it a go. First try my foot slipped off the first move, which is fine that happens to everyone. Next try I climbed past the crux exited the roof planted my foot on little chip and found myself reaching for the last move. sadly I came a little short and fell. So I rested a minute jumped on where I fell did the move easy and jumped off to rest a bit more. In my head I thought this thing is in the bag. It's not too difficult and I should do it next go... Today I sit having tried the problem four days now and yet to get back to that same high point. What the heck is going on? I can do all the moves easy. I just can't put it together.

I'm asking all of you, do you people suffer this same problem? Or am I some freak who has a major mental block?

Monday, April 27, 2009



I know it's been a while since I last posted but I have good reason.


That never works at home but maybe I can pass it off here. I mean what are you going to do stop reading? My mom wouldn't do that.

Quick update.

I haven't given up on the V7 project. The weather hasn't been cooperating. I went up to Squamish last week and found the wettest boulders ever! Okay maybe not ever but it was freaking wet in there. I thought someone had sprayed the boulders with cat food. It was sick in there.

So hopefully tomorrow I'll be back on track.

This weekend I went to the Island to climb. My other friend Tim invited me over to climb up in Duncan.

TD sending a new test piece on the Jackpot boulder.

I've actually been there quite a lot. I think I even heard myself telling someone I'd been there 50 times. Though that sounds like the ramblings of a mad man. More like 20 but who knows I could have blacked out and been there 50 times.

The boulders there are sandstone which is a nice change from the finger tip destroying granite in Squamish.

Saturday morning we planned to meet at Tim's however I was in for a shock. Not only was it Tim but my old basketball teammate Reagan was there along with Liz Mathers. What a surprise. Liz and I used to campus together all the time back when I lived in Victoria. But she moved to the east coast and me to the mainland. So pretty cool.

Regan sending on the pocket problem right.

Sasha, a friend of Tim's, was also along for the trip and was psyched because it was his first time to the boulders. That got me even more psyched because I love the Duncan boulders and it's always awesome to see someone else get psyched on the area as well.

Forty minutes later we made the trip up island and who was waiting for us none other than Squamish powerhouse Brent Mickelson.

Brent giving what-fore on a Duncan problem.

We made the 40 minute hike with little fuss and proceeded to have one awesome day. I managed to do a long time project (stay tuned for Video). And everyone else crushed!

Moving so fast the world blurs!

Awesome day. I'm psyched to go back again this summer and this time take a few more "Mainlanders" over as well.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Back by popular demand!

I'm on a boat!

Wait, what?


What up gang!

I got an email from one of my forest Ninjas with even more updaTed lIst of extra hard probleMs.

I won't give out the name however if you DO a little creative thinking You'lL figurE it out.

Singularity 14
Zazen V14ish
Black Magic V13
North Ridge V13
Velcro Low V13
The Proposal Extension V13
Unlucky V12
Proposal V12
Pool V12
Swamp Thing V12
Summing Low V12
The Drowning Grip V12
Harry Met Sally V12
Vince Pinch V12
Something Wicked this Way Comes V12
Frontside V12
Agoraphobia V11
Encore Enfois V11
Sharma's Jump Start V11/12 if you don't jump.
Dead End V11
Perfect Cave V11
The Method V11
The Number 19 V11
Lucky Sharma's V11
Stalling Tim V11
Siddhartha V11
The Egg V11
Black Hole V11
One Zen V11
Funeral Arrangements Sit V11
An Hour Late V11
Wormworld Cave Left V11
Send the Pain Below V11
King Swing Low V10
Mo Troblems V10
Lo Troublems V10
Tragedy V10
Sharma's Link V10
Sushi Special V10
Tim's Face Low V10
Backseat V10
Jim Carrey V10
Krishana? V10
Night Crawler V10
Escaping Dilation V10
Mr. Bigglesworth Low V10
Zero Zero V10
Escaping Delirium V10
Black Nails V10
The Other Way V10
King Kong V10
Serpent V10
No Honor Amongst Thieves V10
Wormworld Cave Low V10
Matt's Pinch low V10 (above Fuzz)
Salad Shooter V10
Small Motion V10
Primal Urge V10
Great Escape V10
Great Escape Left V10
Broom V10?
The Seam V10
House of Parliament Sit. V10
Problem to the Right of Resurrection V10/Project sit.
Tyson's V10 by Second Story
Bee Sting
Right Of Defenders ?
Muddy Waters
Sid's Secret Life
Blowing Bubbles
Mutual Funds
Project Up
Fuck Hydro
Charmin Ultra
Attack of the Killer Tomatoes
The Thief
Jason Kehls by Nightcrawler ?
Creampuff Dream sit
Cliffrords on SACP Boulder ?
Evil Onion
Gibbs cave seam ?
Flat Edge face ?
Pot Belly
Left of Pigs in Zen ?

So another 22 problems to get you psyched! Or depressed if your fat and lazy and just ate your weight in wine gums.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009


I wonder if anyone out there knows anything about climbing fitness. I find I'm only good for three tries on any problem in a day. Then I feel exhausted. I mean shouldn't I be able to climb longer then that? So any of you rock superstars know any tricks, scams or drugs to increase my rock stamina.

The 30 day V7 project is proving difficult. I finally did ATD, then proceed to get shut down by the Hummer Traverse and Golden Boy. I fell off the top of Golden Boy 5 times and fall past the crux of the Hummer traverse twice.

This brings me back to my above question, how do I keep climbing longer?

Or does anyone know some three move problems I can look good on?

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Another day in paradise

Yup another climbing post!

There has been some mention that this blog only talks about climbing.

Well that's all I do so... Deal with it.

I could tell you about the latest movies I've watched, the new Punisher movie.

But that movie was freaking terrible.

Dominic West from the T.V. show "The Wire" was in it and still it was unwatchable.

Okay back to more important matters, the V7 project.

Day 2.

It started off well. I did Bali Song first try so I was happy. Bubbles has decide to join the party as well. He made quick work of Bali Song.

It seems likely that Bubbles will do this challenge quite easily. So I say up the stakes! V8 project.

He's going to ruin this for me I just know it. Make my struggle seem laughable...

Anyways he's climbing really well and did four 7's right away. I failed on three others today.

ATD where I couldn't roll the lip, after getting there 5 times, Stinger Direct where my left hand wouldn't allow me to hold on without excruciating pain and Buff where I did the first two moves but couldn't stomach the left hand crimp again. Bubbles made quick work of each of these and passed me in the challenge in one day. Yikes!

But maybe I'll have my revenge tomorrow. Don't hold your breath though.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Squamish Tomorrow!

Man have I been lazy lately. My finger is still bothering me, so I haven't been climbing in the gym. With spring break going on the Y where I work out has been swarming with young punks so I've been avoiding the gym.

So instead I've been hanging at home watching March Madness. NCAA is showing all the games for free on the internet. This is the best basketball period; close games, exciting finishes, underdogs, and upsets.

That being said it's super windy right now and it looks like it's going to nice tomorrow. I'm heading to Squamish tomorrow.

I earlier talked about a new goal. Well I'm calling it the V7 project. 30 V7's in 30 climbing days.

Here's a list I came up with thinking about possible 7's.

  • 1) Fuzz
  • 2) Air Tight Garage
  • 3) Stinger direct
  • 4) Inubuis
  • 5) Be On Four
  • 6) Black Slabath
  • 7) Crank Shaft
  • 8) Fixing the Car
  • 9) ATD
  • 10) El Camino
  • 11) Immunity Challenge
  • 12) Quick Stick
  • 13) Stand up to Sit down to Holm Boy
  • 14) Square Cut Low
  • 15) Mindbender
  • 16) King Swing
  • 17) Hummer Traverse
  • 18) Sonnies Problem
  • 19) Golden Boy
  • 20) Masterplan
  • 21) This Monkey
  • 22) Buff
  • 23) Coffee Girl
  • 24) First Nation Giver
  • 25) Sticky Fingers
  • 26) Breakfast At Tiffany's
  • 27) Bubbaharridus
  • 28) Corrupted
  • 29) Shield
  • 30) Masturbator
  • 31) Worm World
  • 32) First Nation Giver
  • 33) Sniper
  • 34) Five Stitches
  • 35) Squealing Pork
  • 36) Dynamite
  • 37) Humming Bird
  • 38) House of Parliament
  • 39) Ladies Man
  • 40) Angry Elf
  • 41) Green Traverse
  • 42) Rockefeller Roof (broken)
  • 43) Trent's Problem past Ride the lightning
  • 44) Animal Magnesium
  • 45) Last Man Standing
  • 46) White Trash
  • 47) Red Sea into Isrealya
  • 48) Ray-men Raw
  • 49) Traverse on the left side of the Ol' Gite boulder
It's going to be tough doing 30 I know there' s a few problems on the this list. However a lot of these are a little suspect.

See you guys tomorrow!

Saturday, March 7, 2009

New Project.

What's up gang?

I climbed yesterday in Squamish with Mike, Tyson, Jay, Dan and Georg. Judging by the guys I climbed with yesterday you can imagine that it was a tough day for your dear writer. I warmed up then watched Georg and Dan try "Harry met Sally" which forced my inner Spray whore out in full force.

I think the guys got tired of me suggesting beta and made demands for me to put up or shut up.
So I strapped on my shoes and gave my flash attempt to it...

Half a millisecond later I was back on the pad quite pleased with my first attempt. My butt had lifted off the ground.

Second try I touched the first hold before crashing back to earth again.

Third try... Success!

Ya right! As if. And monkeys flew out of my butt dragging me to the top.

This day was going to be a struggle. All the plans for the day involved v11's 12's or open projects. In other words things I'll be lucky to do moments before the moon crashes into the earth changing earths gravity to make me feel light as a feather.

Next up Agoraphobia V11 with soul crushing crimps. My left middle finger, already dealing with a pulley tear, wasn't looking forward to those holds. We met up with Tyson and Jay over warming up on "Boat"(Squamish Classic). Tyson was jazzed to do "Agoraphobia" . So we set down the pads and got to work. Georg almost flashed it but was spit off by bad beta shouted from the peanut gallery.

I was quiet I swear... Or at least I didn't yell for him to hike his foot so high. I was yelling hand beta at that point. So not my fault.

Tyson jumped on next and cruised to the top with little drama and smooth style.

Jay next with a little more grunt but also in easy fashion.

Dan was super close. One more day and he'll send for sure. Georg sabotaged by faulty beta never really tired hard after that and was happy to watch me pull on and fall off over and over.

Though I consider it a personal send being able to hang on all the holds within reach of the ground.

Mike, also making a come back from a finger injury, was close.

Next up was an open project near "Fun Factory". Sort of a way harder left hand version of "This Monkey's Gone to Heaven". A couple hard pulls to a good in-cut side pull. Then a huge lunge to a small crimp five feet away. Tyson, Jay, Dan, Mike and Georg all crushed the opening moves to the throw position.

I was a close sixth with pulling on and touching the first hold.

Georg using his superior wing span and freakish strength got close to grabbing the crimp before raking off a couple of times. The rest weren't far behind when compared to me.

We headed to the problem past "Worm World Cave" the cave put up by Trent Hoover's friend.

Problem needs a name.

I tried this a couple of weeks ago with Tyson and Georg. The first move seemed to be the crux and each of us were having trouble sticking the first move.

However the next time we came back Tyson and Georg both stuck the move first go. What the hell? I'm still in the same crappy can't go anywhere but a circle boat. Georg quickly got to the lip before jumping down claiming the top was too wet. Tyson worked it a couple more tries before getting to the lip and deciding that it wasn't and he was going to turn it regardless of the swamp like conditions. Jay sent a couple tries after that. Georg in the middle of all this decided that the low start wasn't hard enough and ripped the starting crimp off the wall with his massive hands. I mean why do a v14 when you can make it V15.

Dan and Mike had called it a day with Mike taking photos and Dan heckling Georg for good measure.

I spent the remaining time trying to break my hip by falling in the worst possible place.

Needless to say fun day but I don't think I did a single move on any of the problems all day.

Look out for my new list. I'm going to set a project that I can do or at least get some climbing in trying.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

A New World Record!

I hate to overstate, but today something historic happened.
10 million BC man invents fire, 4 AD Jesus Christ is born, 1492 Columbus discovers America, 1969 man walks on moon, and now today Jamie Chong climbs the Seven Terrors!

I'll be able to tell my children one day, I was there to witness it. What makes this event truly amazing is that it all started innocently. We were over at Razorburn and Jamie just happened to walk by. I mentioned casually that Razorburn happened to be on the terror list. He laced up his rock shoes almost instantly. While most would shy away from a terror, Jamie attacked with full force. I was a bit surprised to be honest. Most spend years training for something this monumental. But he fought and struggled and flashed his way up Razorburn. Once he reached the top I knew it was on. It was a matter of strength, will and determination, and he had all those.

After he battled through Razorburn we headed over to Good As Gold. Almost instantly Jamie was humbled by the task he had undertaken. After an hour of silent meditation, he had to come to grips with his fears and met his task head on.

Next up BAD DAY LOW. The stopper, the widow maker, the one, the only, the devil in disguise. I won't lie that I had doubts it was going to happen. Upon his first try it was apparent that BDL wasn't going to give it up easy, he was going to have to fight. Dig deep, exorcise his demons. One try later he was at the top. A little shaky but ready for more.

Ol' Gite and Cream Puff Dream fall quickly but with drama all the same. Jamie was joined by his life partner Sara who help him keep his emotions together. At this point the light was failing so we rushed to Original Worm World where Jamie was successful though not without beta shouted from the growing masses.

The end was in sight. Only Pat Crapped At (aka first of the Seven Terrors) remained, with little light and a horde of fans watching as Jamie battled up the last and ironically the first of the Seven Terrors.

At first words escaped him. Humbled by his achievement he thanked his sponsors, his girl friend, his fans and lastly most of all Matthew.

Now we wait and see if this can be repeated like the four minute mile where the barrier was broken and quickly repeated less than a week later. Or will this be the long jump record that lasts 25 years. Only time will tell. But history will remember today.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Problems I'll never climb.

I thought just for fun I'd see if I could name all the V10's and above in Squamish.

Singularity 14
Zazen V14ish
Black Magic V13
North Ridge V13
Velcro Low V13
The Proposal Extension V13
Unlucky V12
Proposal V12
Pool V12
Swamp Thing V12
Summing Low V12
The Drowning Grip V12
Harry Met Sally V12
Vince Pinch V12
Something Wicked this Way Comes V12
Frontside V12
Agoraphobia V11
Encore Enfois V11
Sharma's Jump Start V11/12 if you don't jump.
Dead End V11
Perfect Cave V11
The Method V11
The Number 19 V11
Lucky Sharma's V11
Stalling Tim V11
Siddhartha V11
The Egg V11
Black Hole V11
One Zen V11
Funeral Arrangements Sit V11
An Hour Late V11
Wormworld Cave Left V11
Send the Pain Below V11
King Swing Low V10

Mo Troblems V10
Lo Troublems V10
Tragedy V10
Sharma's Link V10
Sushi Special V10
Tim's Face Low V10
Backseat V10
Jim Carrey V10
Krishana? V10
Night Crawler V10
Escaping Dilation V10
Mr. Bigglesworth Low V10
Zero Zero V10
Escaping Delirium V10
Black Nails V10
The Other Way V10
King Kong V10

Serpent V10

No Honor Amongst Thieves V10
Wormworld Cave Low V10
Matt's Pinch low V10 (above Fuzz)
Salad Shooter V10
Small Motion V10
Primal Urge V10
Great Escape V10
Great Escape Left V10
Broom V10?
The Seam V10
House of Parliament Sit. V10
Problem to the Right of Resurrection V10/Project sit.
Tyson's V10 by Second Story.

All grades are just guesses by someone who hasn't even tried most of these problems.
Apparently there are a few more done in the north walls that I don't know the names of.
All Photos stolen from Mike Chapman.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

The Spray Whore!

I thought I'd admit one of my many sins here on this blog. Yes I'm finally coming clean.

My name is Matthew and I'm a Spray Whore. It's a disease.

I'll spray you down with beta at a moments notice. I've grown over the years, not as bad as my rookie year, but I'm still brutal.

I remember when I first started climbing. I knew the beta for almost every established climb in Squamish. I could give you ten different variations for the classics. If you tried it and I saw you fail I'd shout across the forest the proper way.

It was so bad I walked into a party one time that turned out to be an intervention. They told me they loved me but I'd have to quit spraying or they wouldn't talk to me anymore.

So I went underground. I got subtle... sort of. Now I just allow you to try and patiently wait for you to fail. Then kindly offer my assistance. (Though inside I'm shaking, dying to blurt out the sequence)

This weekend I had an epiphany.... Tim can figure problems out on his own. I'm no longer making him look good with my secret genius.

Sure I know how to help you do it. Hell it might even be easier if I tell you. But I'm no longer going to steal another persons journey.

I'm going cold turkey.

Admitting one has a problem is the first step to recovery.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

It's Go Time! again...

Futures so bright I gotta wear shades!

Too bad my finger is F'd!

But I'm going anyways I don't even care...

I'm reminded of the movie "Boyz n the Hood" When Doughboy says "I'm going to the store."
And the other kids are like "you don't have any money". Doughboy's all "I'm going anyways."

That's me and Squamish. Though instead of ending up in the back of a police car, I'll just whine about my injury later to anyone who will listen.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Bad Day Low Strikes Again!

I don't know what to tell you, there are no excuses. Perfect weather, in shape (relative), plenty of time, nothing.

Shot down, shot down like a clown. I warmed up, I warmed up quite good really. Then headed over to BDL. It was dry, no snow on the top, and felt grippy. I hung on the first move. I thought it was in the bag. 40 tries later I was defeated.

With my head hanging low I climbed the problem beside BDL and spied a new slab that had recently been cleaned. So, I thought a new problem is just the cure for my ego. So I walk up the hill and saw to my dismay that the problem was quite low angle. Maybe 5.6 at the most. A complete waste of my time... (But I'll do it anyways).

First thing I learned is 5.6 can be tricky when it's not 5.6 and it's a lot taller than I originally thought. I climbed to a good stance and realized no more hands and no down climbing. My pad was folded at the bottom so I wouldn't have to step in snow and now I'm facing a ankle breaking fall or a dicey slab dyno (with no hands and a sloppy lip).

Ever get stuck on a problem with no one around? Gives you time to think.

Like: If I yell loud enough will someone coming running?

Will they tell everyone that I'm stuck on a 5.6 slab?

Can I jump and not break something?

Will this dyno to the slopey dirty lip stick?

Can I jump that far?

Why did I stop training my vertical?

Whats for dinner tonight I wonder?

"Fuck" "Shit" "Fuck Shit" "Oh God!"

So long story short I stuck the lip and rushed down to find the nearest someone to trick into climbing it. I was planning my words:

"Awesome new slab"

"climbs so good"

"Super Easy"

It took another day but I got Tim and Mike to climb it. It was even fun to heckle from the sidelines while they stood in that good stance thinking all the same things I did. Though it might have been harder to concentrate with me laughing.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Squamish Tomorrow!

Sorry for the long delay. But I'm back in business, Squamish tomorrow! My finger is a little messed up but I'm going anyways. This is my favorite time of the year for climbing. Cold, dry, high friction days. 

The goal tomorrow is the infamous  problem "Bad Day Low". I've tried this problem more than any single problem in the forest. I know that's saying a lot, however, this problem has shut me down more than anything else. There might be a reason it's on my "Squamish terrors list". 

Well, wish me luck. And no negative thoughts even if your going to be sitting behind a desk tomorrow.