tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79005272658520430952024-03-13T15:14:38.107-07:00Matt Climbing Into The Beyond!m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.comBlogger121125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-35515215212487698672013-05-20T19:02:00.000-07:002013-05-20T19:02:51.682-07:00BAD DAY LOW<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
13 years of trying, 13 years of failure, 13 years of doubt and 13 years of soul crushing defeat.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Bad day low was the reason I created the list of The 7 Terrors. It's the crown jewel in destruction of my climbing psyche. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">V4, 9 feet tall, one move into a V0, two rails that slash across a beautiful face and without a doubt my single longest running project. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">That is until today! </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Bad Day Low is my bail out plan, if I don't have anything going on and I don't want to go try one of my many super hard projects. I just throw Bad Day Low's name out as a possible destination and see if it lands. Today was similar. I hadn't been bouldering outside for the past week and felt like my skin was just barely useable. So while watching Luke try his project I mentioned I was going to give BDL a try. Fortunately my good friend Tim was game to head over and even more fortunately he was patient enough to not only wait around as I floundered but to encourage me when I was ready to quit trying for the day. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1osCXw2887Gl93ZyJxzEmSQBMh8P7_DTZxwR0utTS5LsMKvs6sJTtv783gPdkWROs73WRsfs2eWwEJD9v4aaG2qpdMcwTNk918LhPi-YzJOU4wueAk_xUskXts-ZRxQ7nGvdAO5dpmvA/s1600/IMG_1343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1osCXw2887Gl93ZyJxzEmSQBMh8P7_DTZxwR0utTS5LsMKvs6sJTtv783gPdkWROs73WRsfs2eWwEJD9v4aaG2qpdMcwTNk918LhPi-YzJOU4wueAk_xUskXts-ZRxQ7nGvdAO5dpmvA/s400/IMG_1343.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">I finally figured out a way to do the first move and managed to stick the hold once from the beginning only to have my left hand rip and spit me off. I didn't know how to feel. I was happy but worried I had never come that close to sending the problem. I was worried that I wouldn't be able to repeat move. But I calmed down and tried again from the beginning and this time I stuck the hold again and my left hand stayed and I climbed to the top with zero drama. My longest project is now happily put to bed. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Sometimes when I send a problem I feel sad because I enjoyed working it so much that I know I'll miss trying it. However Bad Day Low isn't like that at all. I was so happy I almost screamed with joy as I topped out. Good bye Bad Day Low! I'll see you when I finally take down the Terrors. But first I must let the joy of this send sit inside of me for a while. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. : Albert Einstein </span></span></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></span><br />
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m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-74510087710640383152012-09-07T11:14:00.000-07:002012-09-07T11:14:00.485-07:00New post about some old times<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
What up gang!<br />
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Sorry its been so long.<br />
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Been a bit busy. My wife and I had our first child. A little crusher named North.<br />
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He now boulders harder than me which is impressive and sad, seeing as he's only 4 months old and can campus my projects.<br />
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Anyways, I thought I'd come out of hibernation with a post about my first climbing experiences and all the fun mistakes I made in the beginning.<br />
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The reason I thought I'd write about this is I was having a conversation with a friend in my <a href="http://www.lucasteas.com/" target="_blank">Tea Shop</a> about funny things new climbers do. I was telling him how I was in a line up in a local cafe waiting for my sandwich when a guy walked in behind me wearing his harness with his climbing shoes clipped to them. I really wanted to take a photo but thought that would be awfully rude.<br />
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Anyways this conversation got me thinking about how I started and how I was a total noob (for the record I didn't know what a noob was until recently when I was called one by these guys in a database class).<br />
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I started climbing kind of different than other people, or at least I think it was different. I was treeplanting one summer just after high school when I met a guy named Dan Gable. We were all sitting around the drying tent one afternoon on a rest day. And like any camp job we were just passing time chatting and telling stories. Well I got it in my head that everyone has a special skill.<br />
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So Dan jumped up and said he could do a one finger pull up. I was unimpressed not knowing if this was difficult or not having never thought of such a thing before. Well he ran back to his tent and came back with a sling and wrapped it around one of the cross beams. He jammed his middle finger in and pulled a one finger one arm with no warm up. We all clapped and I asked if he had worked at this or what. He said he climbed and after a couple years of climbing he could do them. Well I stuck my finger in the sling and tried to hang from my finger with little chance of hanging let alone being able to pull. I was impressed. Everyone else tried and no one could hang from the sling.<br />
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My unique skill of being able to cover my nose with my tongue just got me pitying looks.<br />
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So a couple of weeks later Dan said he had found a place to boulder and invited us along on another rest day. So we all piled in to his beat up <span style="background-color: white;">station wagon and went to see what climbing was all about. As we rolled into Slave Lake, Alberta I was waiting to pass through town and see the massive wall that we would scale. Instead we rolled up infront of the local bar. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">"I thought we were going bouldering?" I asked.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">"We are and we're here." Dan said seeing the next question forming in my head.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Dan pulled out his chalk bag and climbing shoes and walked us around the side of the building. On the far side was a stone mason wall covered in cobble Stones. He then slapped on his shoes and traversed his way across. I wasn't impressed and stood watching while he went back and forth. After a while he came down and invited me to try. Well I grabbed a couple of the big cobbles, pulled my feet off the ground and stabbed at the next closest big cobble only to slip and land on my feet. </span><br />
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"Well that's stupid" I said and walked around to the front of the bar and headed in for a beer.<br />
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Dan came and got me when it was time to leave and I stayed quiet on the ride back to camp. I didn't go with Dan on anymore of his day climbing trips which were back to bar or to a tree that Dan had nailed pieces of wood to.<br />
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That should of been the end of my climbing career. But I agreed to go to Lake O'Hare with a friend to see his girlfriend so we traveled by bus at the end of the planting season. While he was off spending time with his girlfriend I wandered around the lake. I came across some fairly large boulders and tried to scale them in my running shoes. It was a surprisingly good time and helped pass the time while my friend got reacquainted with his girlfriend.<br />
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After we left Lake O'Hare we head for Calgary where we visited the local MEC store. I walked over and talked to the guy infront of the climbing section. Telling him about my experience in Lake O'Hare he told me that buying climbing shoes would make the whole thing more enjoyable.<br />
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So under his wise advice I purchased the best shoes for a beginner. His words not mine. A bright red pair of hightop climbing boots. Ridged and two sizes two small. It would take me five minutes to pull them on and I could only wear them for about 30 seconds. But under the guys advice I soaked them in water and walked around in them as long as my feet could handle. Then I placed tennis balls in them and put heavy books and rocks on them to help stretch them out over night.<br />
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I was pretty impressed with my climbing shoes and after seeing some other people at the MEC leave with their climbing shoes clipped to the side of their backpacks I copied this as well. I caught the next bus back to BC to visit my girlfriend in Victoria.<br />
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After getting to town I went to the local outdoor store and asked and if there was any climbing in the area. They directed me to a cliff on the side of a beach called Flemming Beach.<br />
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In Vancouver, before heading over to Victoria, I stopped at Valhalla Pure and bought a crashpad. It was the first Green "Flash" pad. This was before they were known as Flashed.<br />
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I went out for my first day of real rock climbing. I had climbing shoes and a crash pad. I felt like Columbus discovering the New World. Sure others had been here before but I was about to put my stamp on the climbing world.<br />
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A couple of things happened on my first day. One, I learned climbing shoes aren't the secret to being a good climber, and two, don't believe a sales clerk just because they work in a certian section doesn't mean they know anything about what they're selling.<br />
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Flemming beach was impressive. It was tall, it was long and had holds covered in chalk from one end to the other.<br />
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I set to work on the closest part of the wall to the parking lot, didn't want to miss an inch as I planned to scale the whole thing before the afternoon was over.<br />
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What I learned was climbing at Flemming beach was hard! And my feet were killing me. As I climbed a couple moves and fell off, a couple other climbers showed up. Man I was nervous. In every other sport I've ever done people are a bit elitest. Playing basketball as a kid and into college kids that were new to the game were basically invisible to me. I understood quite quickly I was a punter. And these guys were good. Quite a bit better than me in fact.<br />
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As one of the climbers seemed to climb up and down and across the wall with grace and ease I could only dream of being able to accomplish such a feat. My fears of rejection were quite high. But a friendly smile and a hello were given when he looked my way.<br />
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After a little bit more struggling he came over and asked if I was new to Flemming.<br />
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I said yes and he offered to show me some problems that would be my speed.<br />
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After trying some of the problems I had a small taste of success. And I believe he was comfortable enough to ask me a few questions.<br />
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I told him I was new to climbing and in fact today was my first day of "real" rock climbing.<br />
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He asked about my shoes? What was the deciding factor in my purchase of my high top Free Climbing boots.<br />
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I said I just bought what the guy at the store told me to get. Well he said it would be better to just take them back and return them for a more comfortable shoe and maybe something that wasn't high topped.<br />
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He also told me that the "Flash" pad I had bought was about four inches to thin to really be of any use for bouldering and that I may of been ripped off because he thought they probably poached the foam and sold me a single layer of closed foam.<br />
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I was a little despondent but psyched I'd made a climbing friend. I don't think I knew at the time that climbing would become a life long passion but that first day at Flemming Beach got me pysched, even if the other guy who showed up was some super old guy who told me I should spend the first few years just climbing slabs.<br />
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I ignored him... Might of not been bad advice in-retrospect.<br />
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m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-4623084518004260532012-04-02T22:57:00.002-07:002012-04-03T19:02:20.429-07:00Things overheard<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As I was sitting in the climbing gym, a couple on their first date stopped in and supplied a couple gems.<br />
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"How many push-ups do you think I can do?"<br />
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"uhm... 60?"<br />
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"..."<br />
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Fails at 20. Girl doesn't looked impressed.<br />
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"Check this dyno out!"<br />
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Sideways dyno from standing on a ledge on the vertical wall to a huge jug on the 45 wall. Swings and faceplants.<br />
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"I used to play hockey."<br />
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"I thought hockey players were bigger."<br />
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Laugher from the peanut gallery.<br />
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"Here try this."<br />
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"I don't think that's possible."<br />
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"Let me show you."<br />
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"Told you so."<br />
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Same guy a couple days later showed up to the gym alone. Seeing two guys racing up the campus board, he proceeds to join in and with no warm up campuses half way up the boards and dryfires off, landing on his back and spraining his wrist.<br />
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Rough week for him.<br />
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"You look like a V5 climber."<br />
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Me "Thanks."<br />
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"I've only been climbing two years and I've already climbed a V5."<br />
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"..."<br />
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Some random customer in my store.<br />
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"Have you been doing steroids Smith?"<br />
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"It's called training, you should try it Sonnie."<br />
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Co-op.<br />
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"I did it fair means."<br />
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"Ya you climbed it and stripped the landing so the next guy couldn't use the landing you sent with."<br />
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"Exactly."<br />
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Co-op.<br />
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"What's good about climbing outside?" "It's dangerous and there's no tape or grades."<br />
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Disappointed boulderer leaving Squamish for the last time.<br />
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<br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-28283497553327161492012-03-16T10:56:00.004-07:002012-03-16T11:22:51.876-07:00Somebody else commented so I'm writing another Blog PostI have a little rule, that I'll write another blog if I get two comments. While somebody commented so now I'm left trying to come up with a post that won't have you clicking back before you finish this sentence. <div><br /></div><div>It's the middle of March now. Like many of you I'm in the "Lets get this stupid winter over so we can climb outside phase." This year I've been climbing lots. To give you an idea I've actually climbed more days so far then I had last year at this time.</div><div><br /></div><div>Thanks to the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/26380431523/">Squamish Bouldering Coop</a>, (which happens to be 20 seconds from my work) I've been climbing 4 days a week.</div><div><br /></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjregaaXNthkdPf9rTZwjJd-5expvjyUtn_TAkZUuZL23OkokZzIf6Kby2HcYHIJT4Ip_k7ZHfeHfVKVm_hwrpLND7FpwT5ySM1wBsQIwqcKrlSMnQrRQ7tXAUGcNIxyFaUm5bU5l33Ihg/s400/CoopGymWeb_med.jpeg" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 298px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720561022394320850" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Some of you believe that climbing is the best training for climbing, but I believe that climbing builds technic but I don't know if it helps build power. So that said I've been trying to increase that by power lifting four days a week. </div><div><br /></div><div>Lets not get ahead of our selves thinking that I'm some goon pressing 600 pounds above my head. But I am working towards my body weight for most things. Or twice your weight you skinny bastard! </div><div><br /></div><div>Kidding.</div><div><br /></div><div>Anyways this year I'd like to crack the Bubbles V10. </div><div><br /></div><div>Or get a couple Bubbles approved V10's and possibly a 11. </div><div><br /></div><div>Now I know this seems a little like grade chasing but I'm just psyched on a couple problems.</div><div><br /></div><div>The Reckoning Stand</div><div>Worm World Cave Low</div><div>Agoraphobia</div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div>I'll have to get the other 10's approved by the forest adjudicator. </div><div><br /></div><div>So on that note. I spent this morning doing Wallballs and muscle ups. </div><div><br /></div><div>Feel free to come by my shop to give me sympathy. Ask for something off the bottom shelf and watch me cry as I trying to bend over.</div><div><br /></div><div>Chow! </div><div><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-52512886969065801662011-12-09T12:10:00.000-08:002011-12-12T10:23:54.542-08:00Fear and Loathing on my way to VegasToday is the five year anniversary of my most infamous drive from Hueco to Las Vegas. <div><br /></div><div>Now before I get started I thought I talk about a little self reflection I've done over the years since this trip. In the past I've always pictured myself as Sal Paradise, Raoul Duke sort of character in all my adventures. But after reviewing my memories I might be more Neil Cassidy, Dr. Gonzo than I once thought. </div><div><br /></div><div>To set the stage for this misadventure I have to introduce you to my best friend Gabriel. Gabriel is the kind of guy you meet at a party and you remember his name. Probably because he's lining up some sort of naked sauna roll in the snow. </div><div><br /></div><div>I met Gabe in the Yukon when I borrowed a Tom Wolfe book from him after a random conversation. When I tried to return the book I found out that he was living in a tent behind the college. That's all well in good except it had dropped to minus 20 the night before. Tracking him down I found him showering in the public bathroom. He said he wanted to show me his tent. Turns out it was more of a tarp held up with a stick. After that Gabe moved into guest room at my parents house. </div><div><br /></div><div>Fast forward ten years. Gabe was heading to go back from Mexico and knew I was in El Paso Texas.</div><div><br /></div><div>Gabe emailed asking if he could get a ride to Vancouver if he bused in. </div><div><br /></div><div>I had just spent 6 weeks having the best climbing trip of my life. I had climbed into shape and was cleaning up my projects left and right. Two days before I was planning to start the long journey back to Canada I drove out of the desert and met Gabe at the bus station. Gabe got off the bus with two friends. A Welsh guy and Gabe's new British sweetheart "Jimjam". </div><div><br /></div><div>Surprised, I loaded them into the van to head back out into the desert. Before I had made two turns it became clear this travel arrangement was going to be a difficult one. Jimjam was tired from the 20 hour bus ride and wanted to stay in a hotel. Gabe pulled me aside and told me he was down to his last 50 bucks. And one night in the hotel would break him for the rest of the trip. He also told me his Welsh friend was worse off than him. </div><div><br /></div><div>Feeling bad for my buddy I took them all out for all you can eat pizza. Gabe told me the trip had been good but his love interest was dragging down hard on him. He had got this rash on his privates and was worried it might be a sign of bigger problem. (I tell you this because this is the conversation we had in the lineup for pizza.) He said look man you have to look at this. It's bad and I'm not sure if I need to go to a doctor. So into the bathroom we went were he proceeded to whip it out. </div><div><br /></div><div>(I'd like to stop here to clarify some things: One I'm not a doctor and know nothing about STD's, two it's not a hobby or passion of mine and three I don't recall really wanting to see this.)</div><div><br /></div><div>Of course as Gabe is showing me his unholy sausage the door to the bathroom did open and yes someone did walk in. I kid you not. Needles to say I was doubly mortified. One for concerns of charges of indecent exposure or for soliciting sex and two for seeing something that is now burned into my memory for life. </div><div><br /></div><div>(New rule: No more penis viewings for the remainder of the trip.)</div><div><br /></div><div>That night Gab and Jimjam got a hotel while me and some random Welsh guy headed back into the desert to spend my last day in Hueco climbing.</div><div><br /></div><div>I had my single greatest climbing day of my life that day while Gabe and Jimjam wandered the streets of El Paso passing the time until we got back. Needless to say they weren't psyched when we finally got back from climbing for the day. They had to be forced to leave their hotel at 11 and spent the remainder of the day walking the streets hungry. Gabe had spent the last of his money on a hotel and couldn't afford to go to Denny's for a Grand Slam. </div><div><br /></div><div>When we met them, I shared a couple of my peanut butter sandwiches. My plan was to drive to Bishop with a stop in Las Vegas. I hit the gas station Gabe informed me that Jimjam was having a problem with her bladder and had to go to the bathroom every 20 minutes. I was a bit concerned. I mean that can't work. We're about to do a 12 hour straight drive.</div><div><br /></div><div>I wasn't psyched. I was of the mind set that every time we stopped for gas, then we could use the bathroom. But I'm not completely heartless. In Gabes pre-trip conference he also informed me that Jimjam tended to get carsick and needed to sit up front. </div><div><br /></div><div>Ok ok. Easy. Right?</div><div><br /></div><div>So we filled up and headed out. We had been in the van for ten minutes when Jimjam stated.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Garybell I have to go to the bathroom."</div><div><br /></div><div>I mean I was sitting right beside her, no more than two feet away. I thought she was joking. Gabe tapped me on the shoulder from behind.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Ah guy we needs to stop."</div><div><br /></div><div>Now I'm not a jerk but two things started to bother me. One, we hadn't been in the van for more 15 minutes and two, why was she has holding a four liter water jug.</div><div><br /></div><div>As we swung into a gas station on the edge of town, Jimjam ran in to relieve herself. I questioned the logic of this trip. I'm like "Gabe why don't you guys fly". He of course was like "Dude, I don't have anything left". </div><div><br /></div><div>So five minutes later we were back on the road. As I step on it to get out of town as quickly as possible I begun to notice something troubling. Jimjam wasn't speaking to me directly. It always:</div><div><br /></div><div>"Garybell, I don't like the music."</div><div>"Garybell, I'm cold."</div><div>"Garybell, It's too warm in here."</div><div>"Garybell, I have to go pee pee."</div><div>"Garybell, we're driving too fast."</div><div>"Garybell, how much longer."</div><div>"Garybell, can't we talk about something else."</div><div>"Garybell, I'm thirsty."</div><div><br /></div><div>One hour into the drive I was at wits end. As we pulled over for our third bathroom break. I decided new rules: </div><div><br /></div><div>Jimjam sits in the back of the van.</div><div>Jimjam is advised to shut up.</div><div>Jimjam is advised to cut back on the water.</div><div>Oh and Jimjam is strongly advised to shut up.</div><div><br /></div><div>6 hours in 12 bathroom breaks. </div><div><br /></div><div>New rule: At least two hours between bathroom breaks. </div><div><br /></div><div>My eye twitched every time Jimjam broke one of the many rules of road. I'm normally quite sane but this was testing my limits. </div><div><br /></div><div>"Garybell why can't I sit up front? I like to look at the license plates?"</div><div>"Garybell can you get Matthew to play something that isn't so dreary?"</div><div>"Garybell I have to go wee."</div><div><br /></div><div>I knew we weren't going to make it to Las Vegas in a single push. I was on the edge of madness. I pulled into a gas station/rest stop and said we were crashing for the night. </div><div><br /></div><div>I had a double bed in the back of my van and I planned on sleeping for a few hours and making my way to Vegas the next day. </div><div><br /></div><div>Now normally I'm a nice guy. "Of course you can sleep in the back... Of course we can turn the heat on... Of course you can have my sleeping bag. But in the last 8 hours she had broken me. I was a stark raving mad man. It may not show on the outside but I was ready to snap. </div><div><br /></div><div>Gabe and Jimjam were going to sleep up front, me and the random Welsh guy were in the back. Welsh guy could sleep across my feet. Gabe was informed if Jimjam complained she could sleep outside. </div><div><br /></div><div>When I woke up in the morning the van was empty. When I entered the gas station I found Gabe and Jimjam sitting at a table drinking a hot coco. Gabe had found change sitting on the dashboard and got them a hot drink. Gabe pulled me aside and said that last night was the hardest night of his life. Worst than any of the nights in the tent in the Yukon. He thought they were going to die and that I might sleep through his death.</div><div><br /></div><div>I felt bad. Gabe was my boy. If he died if would have been terrible. I said "Why didn't he climb in the back and cuddle up?" </div><div><br /></div><div>Apparently Jimjam asked that very thing.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Garybell I'm freezing can we trade with them?"</div><div><br /></div><div>Some one told her:</div><div><br /></div><div>"Isn't it time for a bathroom break!" </div><div><br /></div><div>And not in a Welsh ascent...</div><div><br /></div><div>The next day was much of the same driving. Pulling over and constant whining.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was forming a plan in my mind as we drove. It won't be written here for legal reasons. My Dr. Gonzo was emerging. Instead of acting like a crazed father with a mini van full of kids, I'd gone to the dark side. After all we were driving through bat country. </div><div><br /></div><div>We stopped in on the Grand Canyon as we neared Vegas. Sadly Jimjam never got see it. What with bathroom breaks and problems with her camera we left before she made it to the edge. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm not one for sightseeing and neither was Jimjam judging by the speed in which she moved once we got there. </div><div><br /></div><div>Next up the Hoover Dam! With me being the only one with any money to their name, I decided not to pay for parking and rather slowed down to peer out the side of the window.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Garybell why aren't we stopping?"</div><div><br /></div><div>"..."</div><div><br /></div><div>Gabriel is my best friend, hell he was the best man at my wedding and for that reason I didn't drive off on one of our many pit stops on the way to Vegas. But I knew as we neared Vegas it was the end of the line. Jimjam had to go. I still had a few days to go in my trip and I planned to spend a week climbing in Bishop. I had no doubts that Jimjam wouldn't be able to handle sleeping in the desert. </div><div><br /></div><div>The plan was simple. I'd fit the bill for a hotel in Vegas. Then before dawn broke I'd head to Bishop solo. </div><div><br /></div><div>I think my plan showed on my face. As I paid the hotel bill the Welsh guy said quietly.</div><div><br /></div><div> "Can I come too?"</div><div><br /></div><div>Taking a random stranger over your best friend is quite tough. I knew I couldn't leave without saying something, so while Jimjam was heading to the bathroom. I told Gabe "You can come to Bishop. " He smiled relief on his face. "But she can't. Your choice."</div><div><br /></div><div>In the end Gabe made the choice that proved he's a great guy. He called his mom and she wired enough cash and he and Jimjam flew back to Vancouver.</div><div><br /></div><div>Welsh guy and I headed off.</div><div><br /></div><div> In a way I was Sal Paradise when Dean needed a ride. I just wasn't going in the right direction.</div><div>But then again Dr. Gonzo knew the true score. She was one toke over the line.</div><div><br /></div><div> </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-43774611085900272882011-11-24T22:23:00.000-08:002011-12-06T19:25:46.826-08:00Climbing is climbing is climbing.Funny thing happened to me down at the Tea Shop today. I was talking to a regular customer about climbing when a another person walked in and overheard my conversation. I talking to my regular about her interest in getting into climbing. I mentioned that Squamish has a bouldering coop. <div><br /></div><div>Well the gentalman who had just walked in stated that Squamish didn't have a climbing gym.</div><div><br /></div><div>"It's a bouldering gym, which isn't climbing." </div><div><br /></div><div>"Well shucks" I said. Because in all honesty I didn't know what to say to that other than don't listen to this guy, he's an idiot and well I figured that wouldn't go over well. </div><div><br /></div><div>He went on to compare bouldering to top-roping and it really bugged him when people called that nonsense rock climbing. </div><div><br /></div><div>I asked if he'd ever been bouldering? </div><div><br /></div><div>He said he had and that it wasn't at all like rock climbing. </div><div><br /></div><div>In what sense I asked?</div><div><br /></div><div>No real answer that didn't involve things like height.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then I asked the classic rock climbing question. How long have you been climbing?</div><div><br /></div><div>His answer almost two years.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Well shucks" I said. "I see now, you don't know what the fuck your talking about".</div><div><br /></div><div>Ok, I didn't say that, but that's what I was thinking. Because anyone who's climbed for any length of time knows you don't rain on a parade you don't know anything about. </div><div><br /></div><div>Now I'm not overly interested in ice climbing but I'm not going to tell a ice climber their sport doesn't count because their wearing crampons and wielding axes. </div><div><br /></div><div>I said that a lot people boulder and "climb" and the ones that do don't hold one above another. </div><div><br /></div><div>Because its about movement on rock. And just because you jam a cam in now and then doesn't make your sport better than mine. </div><div><br /></div><div>He said a few other things that made me convinced he was trying to impress my regular. After which he offered to take her out climbing and show her what the sports all about. </div><div><br /></div><div>But why is it that people get so down on bouldering? Is it because its about pure difficulty? Or is because they go out and try it and get shut down on the "warm ups"?</div><div><br /></div><div>I'm not trying to be a jerk... Well ok I'm being a bit of a jerk but what's up with "Climbing" snobbery? </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-31043424992094026622011-09-07T09:46:00.001-07:002011-09-07T20:39:40.741-07:00The Helmet Situation.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRHKG9VOMLnG8uJVA2tOqkEbLMDW7mNg1MXblEmMnEYYSj8Kzu_-JRDinTv8Zf_8R8A6MdkRS9GjmVnxGZHybIVwrWBtnOlZj2WCSU_FVJ4IrL2bkFfhkvg-tF0tOiDtwyii-nzQjVvxg/s1600/bucketroof.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 277px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRHKG9VOMLnG8uJVA2tOqkEbLMDW7mNg1MXblEmMnEYYSj8Kzu_-JRDinTv8Zf_8R8A6MdkRS9GjmVnxGZHybIVwrWBtnOlZj2WCSU_FVJ4IrL2bkFfhkvg-tF0tOiDtwyii-nzQjVvxg/s400/bucketroof.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5649673266046220578" /></a><br /><br /><div>Time to bring a little humor to the blog.<div><br /></div><div>These past few months my blog has been a bit of a downer for me. I was super upset about the Duncan situation. I don't want climbing arguments or enemies. </div><div><br /></div><div>I thought I'd tell a little story about me climbing in Australia.</div><div><br /></div><div>I went to Australia to visit a good friend and climb the amazing sandstone in the Grampians. </div><div><br /></div><div>After traveling and climbing in Tasmaina, Sydney and the Blue Mountains, my good friend Garrett and I headed down to a Southern area known as the Grampians. We climbed a bunch and had some good laughs but sadly Garrett had to go back to Sydney to work while I was to stay on and climb for a few more weeks by myself. Now normally this is fine in a world class area. Usually there are other climbers to hangout with and people to spot you on your projects. However for some reason the area was completely empty. </div><div><br /></div><div>Stapleton campground was a ghost town. So each day I'd head out to the boulders and climb until I was wasted then come back to eat until it got so dark that I'd have to sit in my tent reading or watching movies on my 2" ipod. </div><div><br /></div><div>Finally after a couple weeks a family rolled in on a camping trip. They had two preteen girls and a Dad who worked in the Australian film business. So I quickly latched on to them. I was in need of human contact and this family was my salvation. </div><div><br /></div><div>As we were sitting around their lantern on the second night of their trip. They asked me what I was doing in the Grampians. I explained I was climbing/bouldering. Having never heard of bouldering before they asked me to explain it. So I said the usual; climbing with no ropes not very high. </div><div><br /></div><div>(It's funny, the minute you tell someone you climb with no ropes they get this look like they're talking to a crazy person. Some sort of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e0yXMa708Y">Dan Osman</a> daredevil.)</div><div><br /></div><div>Well they of course pictured me freesoloing the Tapia Wall. I was very tempted to leave that image in their minds. But sadly I explained climbing not that high as in four feet above my pad caused my legs to shake uncontrollably.</div><div><br /></div><div>Their next question was whether I wore a helmet while doing this "bouldering" thing. I explained that no one wears a helmet and that there isn't a high danger of hitting ones head with rocks or falling on to it. </div><div><br /></div><div>They looked at me skeptically but went along with it. I think they thought anyone hardcore enough to spend weeks climbing by themselves probably knew what they were talking about.</div><div><br /></div><div>The next day as I prepared to go out bouldering I told them they should come along to the campground boulders which were a short walk from our campsite.</div><div><br /></div><div>Again they expressed concern about my lack of safety equipment but I reassured them it would be fine. </div><div><br /></div><div>As we neared the boulders I could hear a large group ahead of us. I was a little excited to have some other people to climb with. Then turning the corner I was in shock. There was a group of 20 boulderers all climbing and all wearing helmets. </div><div><br /></div><div>My new friends turned to me in disbelief. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'd lost their trust and I'd lost their respect. I was just another cocky kid trying to build himself up as some adventure hard man. </div><div><br /></div><div>That night I ate alone staring in the dark across at their campsite. They played board games while I ate cold beans out of a can. I wanted to run across and explain it was just a freak occurrence. But the moment was lost. I was tempted to drive into town and buy a helmet just to make peace. But I'm not sure it would of helped. </div><div><br /></div><div>The End.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Well kiddies. Only 20 some odd days until I'm done the 180 day challenge. Then some much needed rest.</div><div><br /></div><div>Oh and if you're climbing with redheaded giants be sure to look up cause they can grown angry and toss down small boulders that a helmet would be the only thing to protect you. </div><div><br /></div><div>Till next time.</div></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-20006581721756036352011-08-04T10:16:00.001-07:002011-08-04T10:35:10.491-07:00Not to beat a dead horse...<div><br /></div><div>A friend from the Duncan boulders sent me an email with some photos. I'll let them do the talking.<br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEH_TS-foRwvdKB137KIUAed0d9RCBNKIUGBLGY0XehRrvwMrIe4l6ORCNqCRD4-aCIyILs_NZXU4OKiDDYwTEAGqu8Exyf4dO6NUESJyKFuwlWYkh8FUWn5cmjdMPPOnYiGy8xmaPEjk/s1600/Duncan+Boulders+029.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEH_TS-foRwvdKB137KIUAed0d9RCBNKIUGBLGY0XehRrvwMrIe4l6ORCNqCRD4-aCIyILs_NZXU4OKiDDYwTEAGqu8Exyf4dO6NUESJyKFuwlWYkh8FUWn5cmjdMPPOnYiGy8xmaPEjk/s400/Duncan+Boulders+029.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637051627435546546" border="0" /></a><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouhAdlXH57gTnvOxs9TXzHI1KnGgFRr3POW_1zVbIglGPPKmAjwtI1Fp2g3U2de7LRtByXQMmfjrisGvLHyvkgPGlfrkLsu7vIAPuS8JvuLjsJJKYVuhk2SWe96FtkgvAsKele17VKlE/s1600/Duncan+Boulders+30.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhouhAdlXH57gTnvOxs9TXzHI1KnGgFRr3POW_1zVbIglGPPKmAjwtI1Fp2g3U2de7LRtByXQMmfjrisGvLHyvkgPGlfrkLsu7vIAPuS8JvuLjsJJKYVuhk2SWe96FtkgvAsKele17VKlE/s400/Duncan+Boulders+30.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637051571735477314" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBe_8B0EDjwFna5xI0Xi7lZfm1zIGv9msaXasTQNMD-KKbKB1vCuKm5KrFkIXExvjlsEJvNsxjzf_pNwKS7O9v44aCST40lhJEE2jzxfKDVU5pchvfi1QHTplhzSaRdG5-SkncqhMNCQ/s1600/Duncan+Boulders+031.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBe_8B0EDjwFna5xI0Xi7lZfm1zIGv9msaXasTQNMD-KKbKB1vCuKm5KrFkIXExvjlsEJvNsxjzf_pNwKS7O9v44aCST40lhJEE2jzxfKDVU5pchvfi1QHTplhzSaRdG5-SkncqhMNCQ/s400/Duncan+Boulders+031.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637051510642548162" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6NkRqFhBVMTia4tiO-t1LIisBflRiqLz1X2iWnIwTLcyj7JNK9WGOzJYRZA6_LRdybyG58tHsGypRfYHY19LdxkLwhWNTEuJB4FtTFOAiQq2MzV356N7XFNTsVqNjSnEPAkBbUsjLdoQ/s1600/Duncan+Boulders+032.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6NkRqFhBVMTia4tiO-t1LIisBflRiqLz1X2iWnIwTLcyj7JNK9WGOzJYRZA6_LRdybyG58tHsGypRfYHY19LdxkLwhWNTEuJB4FtTFOAiQq2MzV356N7XFNTsVqNjSnEPAkBbUsjLdoQ/s400/Duncan+Boulders+032.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637051415466157122" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-63804113717951093492011-07-19T01:22:00.000-07:002011-07-19T10:23:57.124-07:00The Duncan DebateYo!<div>
<br /></div><div>This past week I was over on the island doing some family stuff. Mostly eating, drinking and laughing it up. However I did manage to sneak up to Duncan for a day of sandstone bouldering in one of the hidden gems on the island.</div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><div>
<br /></div><div>Seriously I'd tell you where it is but you have to cross private property and well you could screw it up so I can't go back. That and it's a 45 minute hike up hill. You'd be too lazy to go there anyways.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>Ok, where was I. Oh yes, bouldering in Duncan. Janelle and I hiked up to the boulders to meet up with some friends for a fun day of sandstone bouldering. I don't have many projects up there but I'm always psyched to repeat stuff and just enjoy myself. </div><div>
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<br /></div><div><meta equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9aDbEwMQytonYrt3u7xh-Cb58gmA8RIoxEuwyvrogN1-3Ep4ffhxu7DQgpKNkQDs-1O3fNTihpgReq9wXw9cPQJfRpy8mbknDLg2DM7IC0b0Qy7iiupL4CTTusWb_4_rS5XtsBJQykJo/s400/DSC_0007.jpg" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5629272462882858466" border="0" /></div><div>
<br /></div><div>While climbing up there I came across a few new boulder problems. What was interesting about the new problems was that they had arrows drawn on them and written names on the boulders. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>My first instinct was graffiti and the disappointment that a climber would do something that was destructive to a climbing area I love. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>The arrows were around four inches long and there was 4 of them pointing in varying directions. The name was about a foot and half wide and written in red. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>I found out that one of the people who had written the names and drawn the arrows was in the forest that day. It felt pretty weird broaching the subject. I didn't want to get super confrontational. But I was feeling really upset about this new ethic. So I asked the individual to have a discussion about the arrows and names. He was receptive and I asked him why he would draw arrows and write the names on the problems. He had two main reasons; 1) he felt that this was a way to make the forest his own and 2) he thought this would prevent boulders from growing over. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>Well both these reasons didn't seem like valid reasons to graffiti the boulders and make an eye sore. To his first point I said that no one owns these boulders or lands that he was trying to make ours and by painting on the boulders he would expose our user group as a destructive force in an already fragile climbing area. The main problem with the Duncan bouldering area is that it requires that the boulderers cross private property. Access to the boulders can easily be restricted by the local land owners. I imagine that they would be disappointed to see names and arrows all over the boulders above their land. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>To his second point I argued that arrows and names aren't going to prevent regrowth at all. Quality of the problems will prevent regrowth. People climb the good problems and forget about the crappy ones. Same thing happens in Squamish all the time. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>One of the problems that had a name on it I climbed and proceeded to add a lower start to. Now do I place a lower arrow? And write a name lower down to show that I've added a harder lower variation? What if someone else finds an even lower variation? Secondly what was funny was the problem I later found out had been climbed ten years earlier and had just regrown. So the name is incorrect on the boulder. All these factors alone seem like reasons not to write names and arrows. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>I believe writing the name on the boulder is quite ego driven. You want people to know you did the problem, you want them to see you've climbed it and that the name is given and written permanently. Has climbing ever been helped by knowing the name of a problem? Is the grade the next thing to added? Different colours to highlight feet and hands? </div><div>
<br /></div><div>Imagine a boulder that has 20 problems on it? Squamish has a few with that many. What is it going to look like with names painted all over the rock? </div><div>
<br /></div><div><meta charset="utf-8"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-e9625l_f86w-Oq-DFCillAZByYZzwoTP-xDfIcPichSAkm9kAeYhnPAyAPbKrhAfmotnqO1t_NbnYlaMjqWnHvVPC_xT0_wXTwrDIEc3I6otm1tKTTokZa-lHEJnnDSDtepPcEphyphenhyphenr4/s400/Big+Rock+Campbell+River+Vancouver+Island+BC.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630969858072896162" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px; " border="0" /></div><div>
<br /></div><div>No amount of reasoning seemed to be getting through to this individual. He thought he was right and nothing I said seemed to matter. I said we'd been climbing in this area for 12 years and got on just fine without names and arrows. He being a new climber to the area should respect the local ethic. Again he didn't seem to care.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>The fact that his actions could cause a large split in the climbing community didn't seem to matter either. The more I debated the more I realized that he wasn't going to change his mind. He said he had this debate with others and based on their disagreements towards arrows he decided to write the names as well. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>I didn't have anything more to say after that. I felt like he was a destructive force and a detriment to the community as a whole. To write the names large and bold out of spite was a person I couldn't reason with. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>It put a huge damper on an otherwise fun day of bouldering. I won't name names on this blog but I hope the person out there writing names and drawing arrows leaves Duncan alone. I feel the the solution will be to bring graffiti remover next time I head up to the boulders to remove all trace of this ego driven nonsense.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>Sorry for a downer post. I promise next time to be all circuits and harder ascents. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>Peace. </div><div> </div><div>
<br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-54546862863274929582011-07-06T21:38:00.000-07:002023-05-18T14:43:43.907-07:00The Ten Commandments of Bouldering Etiquette<ol><li>Thou shall not Beat down a boulder problem.*</li><li>Thou shall leave a bouldering area better then you found it.</li><li>Thou shall only listen to music with headphones.</li><li>Thou shall brush off your excessive chalk and ticks.</li><li>Thou shall stay on designated trails.</li><li>Thou shall give attentive spots. </li><li>Thou shall not brag or spray excessively. </li><li>Thou shall keep your language and tone to a reasonable level.</li><li>Thou shall think of the area more than yourself.</li><li>Thou shall control your animal's behaviour. </li></ol><div>*** Beat down -- To show up to a boulder problem in a large group and proceed to attack the boulder with no respect for the boulder or anyone else trying it. A classic beat down move is to steam roll a small group with a larger one finally forcing the small group to leave due to the loud obnoxious behaviour. Usually beat downers don't brush or clean feet between tries. Beat downers often have one or two climbers who have climbed the problem before who either sit to the side spraying about past glory or trying to climb said boulder with street shoes. </div><div><br /></div><div> </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-72413492341696068342011-06-30T20:45:00.000-07:002011-07-01T16:40:29.846-07:00More then half way home!I'm a unstoppable climbing machine!!!<div><br /></div><div>Or at least that's my mantra before I go to sleep each night.</div><div><br /></div><div>My body is sore! Boom!</div><div><br /></div><div>I don't think climbing five days a week would be so bad if I wasn't in the middle of a training program. </div><div><br /></div><div>Basically I've been forced to do weights and pull-ups on climbing days. It's making it difficult to feel 100% while climbing. </div><div><br /></div><div>Though I do feel stronger, it hasn't lead to many new sends.</div><div><br /></div><div>So far I've climbed 43 days in Squamish this year. Which when I write it, it doesn't seem like that much. But I did go away for a month. I'm more than halfway done my climbing goal for the year.</div><div><br /></div><div>Today I finally dropped under 200 pounds. Now I know what your thinking, "Holy crap that guy was a fat bastard". But my mother was married so I'm not a bastard. Yes I was gigantantor. But I am bigger than you so that does mean I'm going to weigh more than the average bear. </div><div><br /></div><div>The weather this year has been really weird. It's rained a lot. More than I can remember in previous years. That said I've still been able to get out and go climbing.</div><div><br /></div><div>Driving to Squamish when it's pouring in North Van is very hard on psyche. It's tough to have faith that my friends in Squamish aren't messing with me. I mean if someone told me it was going to be dry and it wasn't, damn I'd feel betrayed. </div><div><br /></div><div>Kidding!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>So it's been a busy year so far in the forest with many traveling climbers. I love seeing new faces, and seeing people hyped to get out and climb. A couple things that does suck however is coming up to your project and there's some dudes playing crappy music with their cell phone. I'm not a hater of music or anything but I'd rather just enjoy nature without listening to electric guitars over an iphone. Also the amount of garbage in the forest increases as well as people wandering off trail. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>A couple of goals for the rest of the summer are:</div><div><ul><li>190... Pounds</li><li>150 Days by the end of August</li><li>A bunch of hard new problems</li><li>Do the highball project I cleaned off</li><li>100 problem day in the forest</li><li>200 point climbing day (might happen on the 100 problem day)</li><li>20 pull-ups in a row</li><li>Deadlift 500</li><li>#AIDIW</li></ul><div>Anyways that's my goals and blah blah blah. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>Oh and if I didn't ask I don't want to know how many tries it took you... Joking! I'm glad you told me that way we both know how awesome you are... </div><div><br /></div><div>Peace! </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-20026492495782700442011-05-21T13:17:00.000-07:002011-05-21T14:11:38.666-07:00Ask and you shall receive.<div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoqq4d3BonSDFWVRoGWWc6ymouBvI38ho5aC3q1Rbez80KOdz6WuXtCH9U3CNaE54uuHCpTScsgaooFGRTEKzWb7PWZfNW6EMsyh7rKrm1b6gSbQjbpUvgIfw2ldZQgH-CuWCBDwnI_8/s1600/5738391901_df57724ec4_b.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoqq4d3BonSDFWVRoGWWc6ymouBvI38ho5aC3q1Rbez80KOdz6WuXtCH9U3CNaE54uuHCpTScsgaooFGRTEKzWb7PWZfNW6EMsyh7rKrm1b6gSbQjbpUvgIfw2ldZQgH-CuWCBDwnI_8/s400/5738391901_df57724ec4_b.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609275999736696466" /></a><br />(Photo courtesy of Mike Chapman) Big Bang North Walls Squamish.<br /><div><br /></div><div>Hi Gang,<div><br /></div><div>I thought I'd write a blog post as I sit around waiting for the apocalypse. There's only a few more hours till I beam up to heaven so I might as well give you all one last blog while you experience the worst five months ever. The new fifth horseman Osama is going to be the worst!</div><div><br /></div><div>While I know later today I'll be floating on a cloud without a care in the world, I thought I'd tell you what I've been up to the last two months since last we spoke. </div><div><br /></div><div>Well I haven't taken much of a break since coming back from France. I've climbed 34 days in the last 2 months along with weight training every other day. And shocker of all shockers I took a Yoga class last Wednesday. </div><div><br /></div><div>But I've also gone to physio for my pulled groin and now strained right knee. </div><div><br /></div><div>I sprained my knee five weeks ago trying and failing on one of my longest running projects. Of course this happened when I finally made a huge breakthrough on the problem. Doing all the moves finally and cross-linking the bottom and the top. </div><div><br /></div><div>Even though I can't right heel hook I'm super tempted to bite down hard and give it another try. Though at the moment common sense seems to be winning. That and limping isn't as much fun as it looks.</div><div><br /></div><div>My weight training is going well. Or at least I think it is. I haven't noticed very many gains but I imagine that will take sometime. My brother was nice enough to give me two weight lifting bars (35 and 45 pound bars) along with just over 400 pounds of weight. I've been super interested in doing deadlifts and other lifts which I couldn't do with just dumbbells. </div><div><br /></div><div>Deadlifts are awesome. I feel like a mother lifting a car off their trapped child every time I lift. Eat your heart out Bruce Banner from the TV show. Its a funny thing seeing what your max is and where you should aim to do your "work weight". I just stacked all the weight on the bar in the house to see what my max was. And quickly realized I'm not as strong as my imagination. </div><div><br /></div><div>No strong man competitions in the near future.</div><div><br /></div><div>A couple things with my goal to climb 180 days. Its hard on your body. Don't believe me? Well next year give it a try. Your body will be asking you for rest but you know that you have to get your days in. Every sunny day feels like it could be your last so you have to get out there and do battle with the stones. </div><div><br /></div><div>That said, I'm having a lot of fun going for it. Right now I have a small lead on a friend but their an underhanded sneak who will go climbing even though they tell you their taking a rest day. </div><div><br /></div><div>Jokes on them, two can play at that game...</div><div><br /></div><div>What I've also learned is that I can climb multiple days in a row. In years past my body seemed to completely shut down if I went two days in a row. But I think I've conditioned myself to climb 2, 3, and even 4 days in a row. <a href="http://foosdirect-store.stores.yahoo.net/antihydral.html">Antihydral</a> is your friend people, especially if your in the + 200 pound world that I am. </div><div><br /></div><div>Though I have noticed all my climbing and weight lifting has caused my weight to drop a bit. So if you see me in the forest you can tell me how slim I look and that the little black dress hasn't looked better on me.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hell maybe in a few months I'll be back under 200 and talking about how I can ride in airplanes without having to buy two seats. </div><div><br /></div><div>Well I'm off to find some white robes for my exit to heaven. </div><div><br /></div><div>Stay clean people! </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-65415454511490907592011-03-21T11:51:00.000-07:002011-03-21T12:57:09.929-07:00What I've been Up to.So this year I went on record that I wanted to climb 180 days. As of today, I'm on track. <div><br /></div><div>Though climbing 21 days out of a possible 26 in Fontainebleau didn't do wonders to my body. </div><div><br /></div><div>Some people out in TV land were saying that it's about quality not quantity, to those people I say, "Have you ever had a bad day in Font?" I mean come on man. This isn't Bishop we're talking about here people. This is the single greatest climbing area on earth. </div><div><br /></div><div>Anyways back to my ailing body. As it stands now my hip flexor feels destroyed, both biceps are screaming from tendonitis, left shoulder feels like it's now two extra feet away from my neck, and both calfs feel like my Achilles tendons are going to snap. </div><div><br /></div><div>That said I have a play date at the gym here in forty five minutes. Got to keep the dream alive.</div><div><br /></div><div>Well this trip to Font left me humbled, Life lesson never go on a trip with a guy who will flash every single one of your projects. I mean for some people this would be ok. But for someone who is as competitive as I am, this can be a tad tough... </div><div><br /></div><div>Well I sent somethings did a bunch of problems avoid slipping on too many condoms and came away with what I think is better footwork, which remains to be seen. </div><div><br /></div><div>You can check out some photos on my flickr account which is linked at the bottom on this page. Here's a hot video of a few problems I saw and didn't come close to trying. More updates to come I promise. I couldn't really update this blog on my Iphone. </div><div><br /></div><div>Peace~</div><div><br /></div><div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19907043?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-56822557600418085022011-01-11T22:53:00.000-08:002011-01-13T20:19:56.099-08:00Happy New Year!Like everyone else I like to make "New Years Resolutions". This year my resolution is to climb 180 days in 2011. Seems doable but we'll see at the same time. <div><br /></div><div>Now kids out there, this isn't a competition. But I do plan to win this. (I've already bought the trophy...) I will set a couple ground rules for myself and anyone else who wants to play along at home. </div><div><br /></div><div><ol><li>For a climbing day to count you must climb 2 hours plus in one calender day. That means you can't go do one boulder problem and count that as a day. </li><li>You can however have easy days. That means circuits and high volume days. </li><li>Climbing in the gym counts, but skipping a potential outside day counts as -1. If it's raining and you want to climb its fine to climb in the gym. Going to the gym when you could be climbing on real rock is just sad.</li><li>If you have any question on whether your climbing day counts feel free to email me. I'll be happy to adjudicate the matter. </li></ol><div>Likely reasons your day won't count:</div></div><div><ul><li>Doing pull-ups in your bedroom. </li><li>Drunkenly bouldering on your RV.</li><li>Walking around the boulders talking about climbing but never actually climbing. </li></ul><div>So incase you missed it, Squamish has been going off as of late. The weather has been amazing. Cold, dry and perfect conditions. Basically every problem is dry and if they are not it's because theres icicles hanging off it (Perfect Weapon..?). </div><div><br /></div><div>While this weather is awesome, I've been focusing on sending the "7 Terrors". On Sunday I managed to do one I hadn't be able to repeat in 7 years. Needless to say I was psyched. While the weather was good I was going around trying to wire all the problems so incase "Bad Day Low" ever surrenders and I can quickly race across the boulders to try and finish up the list. </div><div><br /></div><div>Hope you all got out to enjoy the perfect temps. As I look out the window now I see snow beginning to fall. Looks like tomorrow is a gym day... </div><div><br /></div><div>Later! </div></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-86987176935930521702010-12-29T14:22:00.000-08:002010-12-29T18:30:15.918-08:00Some Bishop Photos.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIKdrKsijwuvPPUUIrisCj3QYUqmdqE4sIAdErCSEgArCK4wE8_ABi5q8jpDte6mrVIw7uK5aZsnCeqEaTzwzuMoccEZldIZrktFzSbDfCyTAFSBMin2nt0koiAMHdMNWrKe5pT6NR3c/s1600/DSC_0028.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIKdrKsijwuvPPUUIrisCj3QYUqmdqE4sIAdErCSEgArCK4wE8_ABi5q8jpDte6mrVIw7uK5aZsnCeqEaTzwzuMoccEZldIZrktFzSbDfCyTAFSBMin2nt0koiAMHdMNWrKe5pT6NR3c/s400/DSC_0028.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556235389623824594" /></a><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIKdrKsijwuvPPUUIrisCj3QYUqmdqE4sIAdErCSEgArCK4wE8_ABi5q8jpDte6mrVIw7uK5aZsnCeqEaTzwzuMoccEZldIZrktFzSbDfCyTAFSBMin2nt0koiAMHdMNWrKe5pT6NR3c/s1600/DSC_0028.JPG"></a>Meshkat picking me up to head down to Bishop<br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIKdrKsijwuvPPUUIrisCj3QYUqmdqE4sIAdErCSEgArCK4wE8_ABi5q8jpDte6mrVIw7uK5aZsnCeqEaTzwzuMoccEZldIZrktFzSbDfCyTAFSBMin2nt0koiAMHdMNWrKe5pT6NR3c/s1600/DSC_0028.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LFrWk4g9OAX9QvcR0XW9U_9U4HteVMdy0V2ZIeNJOh_XkseJ84pWhPzeQ48N87QPRzVV2hQeU2wcD4NsDbOfUZU3Kso8UETZslC6fYFDJckecsy9uxTqF911FNZ7e-I1KIwysfV8Bpo/s1600/DSC_0038.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LFrWk4g9OAX9QvcR0XW9U_9U4HteVMdy0V2ZIeNJOh_XkseJ84pWhPzeQ48N87QPRzVV2hQeU2wcD4NsDbOfUZU3Kso8UETZslC6fYFDJckecsy9uxTqF911FNZ7e-I1KIwysfV8Bpo/s400/DSC_0038.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556235387991257970" /></a></div><div>Topping out some warm-up in the Buttermilks.</div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LFrWk4g9OAX9QvcR0XW9U_9U4HteVMdy0V2ZIeNJOh_XkseJ84pWhPzeQ48N87QPRzVV2hQeU2wcD4NsDbOfUZU3Kso8UETZslC6fYFDJckecsy9uxTqF911FNZ7e-I1KIwysfV8Bpo/s1600/DSC_0038.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNt6vQrYPLeCzBTbcbmjCvvKAwknGXhdgCXbv3x7UKl33Kv49ag-Uc-w7axfpYthCx_6LRpp5cNaABvvF_ElIui8lJCWZhUIs0szGR6zz3JINdkCmDXa5pjOKy-d01H7hnLw9QSdxbYw/s1600/DSC_0036.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNt6vQrYPLeCzBTbcbmjCvvKAwknGXhdgCXbv3x7UKl33Kv49ag-Uc-w7axfpYthCx_6LRpp5cNaABvvF_ElIui8lJCWZhUIs0szGR6zz3JINdkCmDXa5pjOKy-d01H7hnLw9QSdxbYw/s400/DSC_0036.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556235384023491586" /></a></div><div>Last Problem I sent before the rains came. Hard to believe when you see the beautiful blue skies in the background.</div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNt6vQrYPLeCzBTbcbmjCvvKAwknGXhdgCXbv3x7UKl33Kv49ag-Uc-w7axfpYthCx_6LRpp5cNaABvvF_ElIui8lJCWZhUIs0szGR6zz3JINdkCmDXa5pjOKy-d01H7hnLw9QSdxbYw/s1600/DSC_0036.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzj6st1G_I_kAF-5nuKSscZv_kFQpbF6HfHpllPKSzMv-wQm9Bg-UwJihPMQ5lRKudhJJu9Zi2rflk8Xj8pfpXLgGCdbHtjX_92v8Ghwv_tv7JxlUU-kXGqAbgMrg-in_wZmtQ6A-DgO8/s1600/DSC_0039.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzj6st1G_I_kAF-5nuKSscZv_kFQpbF6HfHpllPKSzMv-wQm9Bg-UwJihPMQ5lRKudhJJu9Zi2rflk8Xj8pfpXLgGCdbHtjX_92v8Ghwv_tv7JxlUU-kXGqAbgMrg-in_wZmtQ6A-DgO8/s400/DSC_0039.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556234564880770658" /></a><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzj6st1G_I_kAF-5nuKSscZv_kFQpbF6HfHpllPKSzMv-wQm9Bg-UwJihPMQ5lRKudhJJu9Zi2rflk8Xj8pfpXLgGCdbHtjX_92v8Ghwv_tv7JxlUU-kXGqAbgMrg-in_wZmtQ6A-DgO8/s1600/DSC_0039.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6YLeGAIKKUIlkmDzfnB1B3pK2slsKfYATtuVP7XGPGrLH97fwTt5sTrbBNp8EWTNNu2BCcmRDTz6kB2MnY65zH_3SFJCuM1IllJeu_axBTW3CNJ0Frc05KOecA8haOL0nyInrF2NsOc/s1600/DSC_0043.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6YLeGAIKKUIlkmDzfnB1B3pK2slsKfYATtuVP7XGPGrLH97fwTt5sTrbBNp8EWTNNu2BCcmRDTz6kB2MnY65zH_3SFJCuM1IllJeu_axBTW3CNJ0Frc05KOecA8haOL0nyInrF2NsOc/s400/DSC_0043.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556234564715475218" /></a></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6YLeGAIKKUIlkmDzfnB1B3pK2slsKfYATtuVP7XGPGrLH97fwTt5sTrbBNp8EWTNNu2BCcmRDTz6kB2MnY65zH_3SFJCuM1IllJeu_axBTW3CNJ0Frc05KOecA8haOL0nyInrF2NsOc/s1600/DSC_0043.JPG"></a>Georg Jost dwarfing the giant boulders of Bishop.<br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6YLeGAIKKUIlkmDzfnB1B3pK2slsKfYATtuVP7XGPGrLH97fwTt5sTrbBNp8EWTNNu2BCcmRDTz6kB2MnY65zH_3SFJCuM1IllJeu_axBTW3CNJ0Frc05KOecA8haOL0nyInrF2NsOc/s1600/DSC_0043.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7GT0nFwUWRcEZxwCOtG47x_OqjLceighuhc3A_-a_SGHI3rmjuYfykXbnAW9SGXTxJD2Sxd1MywnOkEz_VGU1LoGAXKb5_h28wovGwHYX5UxQPLuDrZW5Mz1rQUZeHHmXGKuHja6j9E/s1600/DSC_0049.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7GT0nFwUWRcEZxwCOtG47x_OqjLceighuhc3A_-a_SGHI3rmjuYfykXbnAW9SGXTxJD2Sxd1MywnOkEz_VGU1LoGAXKb5_h28wovGwHYX5UxQPLuDrZW5Mz1rQUZeHHmXGKuHja6j9E/s400/DSC_0049.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556234559087522210" /></a></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7GT0nFwUWRcEZxwCOtG47x_OqjLceighuhc3A_-a_SGHI3rmjuYfykXbnAW9SGXTxJD2Sxd1MywnOkEz_VGU1LoGAXKb5_h28wovGwHYX5UxQPLuDrZW5Mz1rQUZeHHmXGKuHja6j9E/s1600/DSC_0049.JPG"></a>Meshkat showing off the guns.<br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7GT0nFwUWRcEZxwCOtG47x_OqjLceighuhc3A_-a_SGHI3rmjuYfykXbnAW9SGXTxJD2Sxd1MywnOkEz_VGU1LoGAXKb5_h28wovGwHYX5UxQPLuDrZW5Mz1rQUZeHHmXGKuHja6j9E/s1600/DSC_0049.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6qqNOhX2W9apq-k4rztqZ369TplApDGobXtQze5lxxXxAFHkSZwp9ZKGkdW6rz45IcvORkI8YfQKDBOSB35wA9z29hzGG2BnLwRJb1p7ocA-mJZufruzL-CkNHqV9Baq799NvTspShQ/s1600/DSC_0046.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO6qqNOhX2W9apq-k4rztqZ369TplApDGobXtQze5lxxXxAFHkSZwp9ZKGkdW6rz45IcvORkI8YfQKDBOSB35wA9z29hzGG2BnLwRJb1p7ocA-mJZufruzL-CkNHqV9Baq799NvTspShQ/s400/DSC_0046.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556234554459753746" /></a><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div>The legend! </div><div><br /></div><div>And that's it! What a trip! I did about 15 problems in two days. But hey weather looks good for the weekend. I'm off to climb in the gym. Time to get some strength. </div><div><br /></div><div> I'm Out! </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-79621409819537184812010-12-23T11:32:00.000-08:002010-12-23T11:49:37.691-08:00Bust!Well Bishop sucked. <div><br /></div><div>Haha.</div><div><br /></div><div>Or at least the weather did. So I got two days of climbing in before Vancouver weather showed up and ruined the climbing trip. I did take some photos. Unfortunately my trip partner (Meshkat) Stole my camera and won't return it. </div><div><br /></div><div>It took us two days to drive down and two days to drive back. On our first day climbing we decided to go to the Happy's to get the kinks out from the long drive down. Meshkat and myself mostly just warmed up and tried a few of the classics. The next day psyched to go to the Buttermilks we headed up and ran into some good friends from back home. A good warmup in the milks we got talked into checking out Dales camp where a couple awesome problems I'd never seen before were. So we head over to try "Zen Flute". First thing I learned about Dales Camp is it's way colder over there then the Milks. The boulders only get morning sun. So after trying the problem a bunch and getting shut down by small crimps my body begin freeze. </div><div><br /></div><div>So at that point the day was over for me. I was ice cold and couldn't get back my mojo. </div><div><br /></div><div>We headed out with sore tips and ready for a rest day. </div><div><br /></div><div>Little did we know that the next potential climbing day would be sometime in the new year. </div><div><br /></div><div>After some tough decisions we decided that waiting out the rain wasn't worth it. And checking all the close areas we decided just to drive back rather then lose anymore money on rest day boredom. </div><div><br /></div><div>The only area within driving distance was Hueco Tanks a 17 hour drive. Unfortunately we had a dog with us so going there wouldn't have been fair on poor Maui. </div><div><br /></div><div>So now I'm back and dreaming about where to go next. </div><div><br /></div><div>Peace.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-82716692695581043432010-12-12T22:50:00.000-08:002010-12-12T22:51:03.571-08:00Bishop TomorrowUpdates to come!!! <div><br /></div><div>Peace! </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-69301672021951665922010-11-25T12:31:00.000-08:002010-11-25T12:46:38.592-08:00Reel Rock tour!<div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Last night was the "Reel Rock Tour", I'll let the video speak for it's self.<div><br /></div><div><object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UVRDb1CBh58?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/UVRDb1CBh58?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object></div><div><br /></div><div>I'm psyched to go climbing, I just don't know about all this white stuff on the ground outside.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-33634493119666505942010-11-23T18:48:00.000-08:002010-11-23T19:24:18.119-08:00Blogged down.Sorry for the lack of updates. <div><br /></div><div>Been a brutal last two months.</div><div><br /></div><div>First my motivation went down hill. </div><div><br /></div><div>Then my condo was filled with poisonous gas.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then I moved.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then a death in the family.</div><div><br /></div><div>The loss of my brother has been hard to handle. </div><div><br /></div><div>But I'll solider on, because I think he wouldn't want me moping around.</div><div><br /></div><div>Squamish has been awesome the last week.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's been cold. Today I spent the day up there with my good friend, Meshkat. It was -8 Celsius;</div><div>that's 18 f for you yanks. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm trying to whip myself into shape. I'm planning to go down to Bishop at Christmas and want to send a couple problems. I made a promise to a friend in Australia that i'd send his project for him... </div><div><br /></div><div>Tomorrow is the Reel Rock tour in Vancouver. So I'm going to inject some motivation.</div><div><br /></div><div>Maybe another bouldering day outside too. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'll try and remember to bring my camera for some pics for you guys. </div><div><br /></div><div>Peace! </div><div> </div>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-80743754493739658322010-09-25T13:11:00.000-07:002010-09-28T15:40:37.545-07:00Hardest Unrepeated Boulder Problems.Basically I've decided to steal an idea from <a href="http://climbingnarc.com/">Climbingnarc</a>.<br /><br />What are the hardest unrepeated boulder problems in Squamish?<br /><br /><ul><li>Singularity V14 (Tim Clifford)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>North Ridge V14 (Georg Jost)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>Zazen V14 (Harry Robertson)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>The Reckoning V14 (TD)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>Big Dragon V13 (TD)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>Everything Roses V13? (TD)</li></ul><br /><ul><li>The Pool V13 (TD) It's known in the book as "The Deep End" but the full name is "The Pool".</li></ul><br />At the moment I can't think of any other problems that are considered super hard and unrepeated. I could be wrong. I'd be happy to update this list if it's otherwise. I wouldn't be surprised if one or two of these have been repeated but as far as I know these stand unrepeated.<br /><br />It would also be rad if I had videos of all of these... Or even pictures.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd68WeYJJXfCT7QL_kuilNbS7DARPDpuA4hddYSn0SH1tc_c7KKP9YAAPXCHGuDL7mIpJleytuOXFPnDSLQRx4hQNFx2KdoAj6DZ62gQMe8bb9zUHTxGpavBhUxUHWHdOrZh2pXVM6o1s/s1600/Sam_Room-1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd68WeYJJXfCT7QL_kuilNbS7DARPDpuA4hddYSn0SH1tc_c7KKP9YAAPXCHGuDL7mIpJleytuOXFPnDSLQRx4hQNFx2KdoAj6DZ62gQMe8bb9zUHTxGpavBhUxUHWHdOrZh2pXVM6o1s/s400/Sam_Room-1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522097011777032194" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">UPDATE:</span> Found this picture of Singularity, pretty hot.<br /><br />Anyways later!m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-69139902215990177752010-09-23T11:26:00.000-07:002010-09-24T21:37:32.229-07:00Canadian Fit Homeless... Err ish.Sorry for the lack of updates it's been a crazy month. As we speak I'm writing this from the lobby of the Sandman Hotel in downtown Vancouver. My condo for the last week has been filled with poisonous gas. Yikes I know.<br /><br />So I've been staying in hotel waiting... Hydrogen Cyanide sounds like some nasty business.<br /><br />Ok quick update. Got married in Kauai (awesome place, lousy climbing, though potential saw a huge cave), Drank my weight in fruity blender drinks, Returned home climbed in Paradise(Got super psyched on two problems there, got shut down on the hardest 8 in the Squamish), Threw a party (Got drunk on wine and beer), Got home to find out my condo was evacuated, Went climbing yesterday (had one of the best days of the season so far, awesome conditions).<br /><br />So as we speak I've been wearing the same pair of clothes for the past week. Now I know that's no big deal for some of you smelly folks. But for me that's a bit of change. Anyways I'll post some photos for you all to enjoy.<br /><br />Peace!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kk9nicNFe46uVOyyi5QSLl3RDKvzRLdSckTum3HhGM4sEHcYOw8dmHzaz_8rdQLS0l9P66W7Wq-IWMomAB2NeQeYidFjQ8WlUrZ62nC41B362hoX27agXVMOwlEhRBbWdzeSQ9b7yss/s1600/Picture+1.png"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 265px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kk9nicNFe46uVOyyi5QSLl3RDKvzRLdSckTum3HhGM4sEHcYOw8dmHzaz_8rdQLS0l9P66W7Wq-IWMomAB2NeQeYidFjQ8WlUrZ62nC41B362hoX27agXVMOwlEhRBbWdzeSQ9b7yss/s400/Picture+1.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520179830716997842" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-TuapeJPsCYEIHhspIt5weSfBYKCMGycvQD3vCqKqV6NQ2KxbV7DUo0zKT8GO4IYhhQMkCl3pAnS42pPYaDpSgyz9QCAZesbXXyPx-hfTa8CuamgpMHW6f_tLVRlMwRpxIu32fjIluo/s1600/DSC_0146.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-TuapeJPsCYEIHhspIt5weSfBYKCMGycvQD3vCqKqV6NQ2KxbV7DUo0zKT8GO4IYhhQMkCl3pAnS42pPYaDpSgyz9QCAZesbXXyPx-hfTa8CuamgpMHW6f_tLVRlMwRpxIu32fjIluo/s400/DSC_0146.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520180590087397106" border="0" /></a>m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-12189102529241504672010-08-16T23:52:00.000-07:002010-08-17T00:15:14.904-07:00Well summer is over!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVWyEJg07udpUDm0B7LxN6A5-i5vVanfkOggtcdfv6-xYgGSy__UA3Pes-qkzsDjZpPbAoBzGVKAL5IQ-PHbkbfBboAewEvY3QXQ13Bm0g6gYdaq7gVidqTdhCAAoKpZgAKhjLq0L-9I/s1600/4887253950_1d1a8810bc_b.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 272px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVWyEJg07udpUDm0B7LxN6A5-i5vVanfkOggtcdfv6-xYgGSy__UA3Pes-qkzsDjZpPbAoBzGVKAL5IQ-PHbkbfBboAewEvY3QXQ13Bm0g6gYdaq7gVidqTdhCAAoKpZgAKhjLq0L-9I/s400/4887253950_1d1a8810bc_b.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506273494096512722" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Or at least the climbing part of it is for me.<br /><br />Today was my last day in the forest till September. I'm leaving for Hawaii on Wednesday morning and tomorrow I'm going to spend the day completing the finishing touches on my to-do-list.<br /><br />Well this years summer wasn't exactly as productive as last years. Sure I sent a few things. But I never really pounded off something awesome. My big three projects are still that. My big three. But Sendtember is just around the corner and hey who knows maybe I won't pack on 20 pounds of fat laying on the beaches doing nothing but drinking and eating, and I'll come back when the temps are a bit better and crush my projects Ondra style (Sorry Sharma, there's a new kid on the block)!<br /><br />So how would I rate this years summer? I had a ton of laughs and tried hard on most things. I felt like this year was especially hard on the forest. People where off trail like crazy and leaving their trash all over the place.<br /><br />I wish people could see this place like I do. I love Squamish it's my favorite place to climb on earth. I know! Even more then Font. I just want people to treat it a bit better. But all in all a pretty amazing summer.<br /><br />I'm off to get married so I'll be on vacation from the forest. I want all of you to watch over the place for me. Give people a hard time if there off trail and hassle them if you see them leave garbage on the ground. Oh and tape from your fingers that needs to be picked up as well. Return the pads you borrow and if it's late at night and you see pads left out pull them under a boulder so they don't get wet in case it rains.<br /><br />I'm going to take my shoes with me to Kauai rumor has it there is some climbing... But I'm not optimistic.<br /><br />Well have fun. I'll see you all on the flip side.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXTVR9DT7jSqwiQV52bMRDbtyG2l_k5MwNsU44WoAO9N8NZFZ7fxzMxXbP-2XVWJUJCuAnBZ5LGB3NimkHTrcHhenLGeoz2d2Zj73LZlRxFi4CvyppuIbMFsmhzq1xq5Fd_JK3t6VV8Zk/s1600/4826318678_e6833c055f_b.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXTVR9DT7jSqwiQV52bMRDbtyG2l_k5MwNsU44WoAO9N8NZFZ7fxzMxXbP-2XVWJUJCuAnBZ5LGB3NimkHTrcHhenLGeoz2d2Zj73LZlRxFi4CvyppuIbMFsmhzq1xq5Fd_JK3t6VV8Zk/s400/4826318678_e6833c055f_b.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506273617196865602" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The future Mrs!m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-13837472942340898822010-08-10T23:32:00.000-07:002010-08-12T11:02:39.834-07:00Sending got me thinking.Today I sent a project.<br /><br />Hurray for me and all that jazz!<br /><br />It was something just about everyone finds easy and I struggled on for over four days. I did all the moves on the first day. And just couldn't put it together.<br /><br />Then today while no one was around I went up and sent it first try.<br /><br />It got me wondering if I climb better alone or if I can't handle the pressure of having large groups watch me climb.<br /><br />I've been in the middle of a climb only to be shouted off a problem by unruly crowd.<br /><br />In their defense I believe they thought they were helping by shouting beta and giving encouragement.<br /><br />But maybe I prefer quiet? I don't know. It was interesting today because my project had a scary top-out. But I'd done the top-out before so I was confident that I would send. I told myself to calm down and I walked across the top with little drama.<br /><br />One of my favorite things about climbing is the social aspect, but maybe when I start feeling like I'm having a mental block on a problem the solution is to get busy on the problem alone.<br /><br />I tried to send two projects today only to show up and find the pads hidden under the problem gone. I mean I'm willing to try sending alone but I think some problems need protection. Just like some climbers...<br /><br />Anyways I'm going to try and send as much as possible in the next 7 days. Because after that I'm off to Hawaii to get married. And as everyone knows the minute you get married you start packing on the pounds. I'm already one of the largest boulderers around. God help the holds when I get back from two weeks of eating drinking and chilling on the beach.<br /><br />I don't have any photos to post lately because my friend Mike Chapman has stopped taking photos of me. The only people he shoots anymore are famous rock climbers. I think getting all those photos in the new Squamish bouldering guide book has gone to his head.<br /><br />Oh and the rumor that there is a photo of me in the guide is just that a rumor. I think it might be my twin brother <i>Matthæus, </i>but it certainly isn't me that guy isn't sending<i> </i>and I'd only be photographed crushing<i>.</i><br /><br />Peace.m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-91464201573717152662010-07-23T21:26:00.000-07:002010-07-23T22:04:30.405-07:00Photo Project<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWEpvGoO7-KCXt72vBsDB8ms_4Ow5DobNMZCsw-9jxYFETPD5dupyT76owdgeZL7dV0l4YUtfqawS25p5a5CWk88G9pbIhakSfPdLNFariAp5LxKAEwKQ-XkBkqYnewCDxlsk-gjGYyU/s1600/final_Panorama4.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 127px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWEpvGoO7-KCXt72vBsDB8ms_4Ow5DobNMZCsw-9jxYFETPD5dupyT76owdgeZL7dV0l4YUtfqawS25p5a5CWk88G9pbIhakSfPdLNFariAp5LxKAEwKQ-XkBkqYnewCDxlsk-gjGYyU/s400/final_Panorama4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497324833459132466" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here's a photo I took off the top of the Black Dyke. I'm pretty happy with it. It's five images stitched together. It's my first attempts at photo shop. I actually had to build a weird mount for my tripod to accomplish this shot. Wrapping my head around the concept of <a href="http://archive.bigben.id.au/tutorials/360/photo/nodal.html">nodal point</a> took some figuring out.<br /><br />Anyways I'm heading up again tomorrow to Squamish. So say hi if you see me!m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7900527265852043095.post-42862113531590632452010-07-16T20:39:00.000-07:002010-07-16T20:44:56.843-07:00A day in the Northwalls.My skin sucks!<br /><br />But as a founding member of "Team Weak", I'm used to failure. Anyways my good friend Reagan made a video from the other day enjoy.<br /><br /><object height="225" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13404292&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=13404292&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="225" width="400"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/13404292">North Walls Bouldering in Squamish</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3293490">Reagan Daly</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />Drew crushing and the big guy greasing the place up.m.http://www.blogger.com/profile/03108898820853892026noreply@blogger.com0