Sunday, June 28, 2009

Do you think your Kung Fu can defeat me?

Quick Squamish update:

Today, in a truly amazing feet, Rich Kupskay sent "Kung Fu" in the Clean Boulders. After battling the problem over a hundred tries today he finally succeeded.

There has been a rumor going around that I only use this blog to brag, so I won't mention that Rich wouldn't have sent without my key beta. I will say that he showed exceptional fortitude to finally succeed.

Friday, June 26, 2009

All hail the Miura VS!

Today I went to Climb-On and bought a new pair of Miura VS with problem X in mind. I've been super close but my heel has been progressively peeling. I thought a new shoe might do the trick. Sadly I have the bottom extremely wired but the top keeps dashing my dreams of success.

A little turned off from my lack of success with problem X I met up with TD and filmed a him doing a bunch of problems on the AM boulder. Maybe it was seeing some super hard problems go down easy or maybe it was a nice rest, but after that we walked over to problem Y. We were a bit short in the pad department so falling would not be an option. I pulled on and for once everything went right. Success! Problem Y went down.

Super psyched about sending Auto-Body it didn't feel that hard just foot dependent. I'm going to chalk this up to my new Muira heel and toe. They stuck like glue and I managed not to screw it up.

Pretty gravy day. Sure I didn't do problem X but Auto-Body went down and so did a few other classics as well. All and all a pretty good day.

Right now I'm going to grow some skin and maybe just maybe I might get lucky on Sunday and finally put problem X to bed.

Photo courtesy of Jamie Chong.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

So you wanna be a rock star!

You like all the fame and glory that goes with sending highballs. Just know there are consequences.

Any one wanna try and come up with a flashy title for this pic?

I was thinking: This is what happens when you swallow a softball.

Oh and not my ankle. But I did carry the dude out of the forest.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Problem Z goes down!

Finally some success to talk about here on the old blog!

Today I managed to put to bed a project that I had a lot of trouble on.

Problem Z aka Bates Motel.

Bit of a battle today as my skin was thin and sweating like crazy.

However I managed to fight the temps and send.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without some great spots from TD and the rest of the cowboys.

I single out TD because he took the people's elbow to the top of the head. I almost knocked him out but he managed to regain his barrings and give a great spot.

Now it's back to project X and Y.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Interesting ideas

So I was trolling the web when I came across an interesting video.

I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?

If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).

Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!

Maybe I'll see you up there.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009


(photo by Mike Chapman) Awesome representation of Squamish bouldering.

Okay, I know alright. I've been lazy yet again.

I talked about putting up a video but after further review I couldn't bring myself to post it.
The footage is terrible. It was shot with my digital camera (hand held) in a dark forest. So just imagine it was awesome and we'll all leave without disappointment.

So my other promise which I haven't voiced on here, but will do now is...

I'm working on a topo of one or two of my lists. So if your all good boys and girls this might happen in the next few days.

Quick update on project X and Y; came devastating close on project X. Ever get to a move where all you have to grab the jug and all your dreams will come true? I've been there ten times now. Some people would think that it was just a forgone conclusion, sadly I'm the opposite type. I worry that every failure is an opportunity that got away and who knows how many more I have left. I'm going up again tomorrow and I'm going to give it another go. 30 degrees will make it tough but for some bizarre reason I think that if I do it in this heat it will be a champion send.

Oh and a new project might be rearing it's ugly head as well. Project Z just joined the party. I don't know if it was because of the 30 degree weather or if I enjoy trying problems alot. Cool problem though. Might be a soul shatterer if I don't do it next day.

I'm going to make a promise to myself. Start cleaning up these problems now cause its no more mister nice guy! People tell me I climb silent but maybe it's time to put some growl in these attempts!

Oh and I met some cool Austrialians yesterday who have started up a website for people looking for climbing partners. I thought a few of my friends could use this service to meet girls but apparently it's not that type of site. ;-)