Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Remember when I said...

That climbing wasn't extreme?

Well I still stand by that statement, however I just watched this Youtube clip of freaking Dean Potter again.

I don't think I need to say too much more on this.

So 24 days till I leave for Hueco! The next two weeks is time to really go hard in my training.

That means more abs! The terrible type, the vomit inducing type. More finger board work and now some endurance work too. Hueco's problems are generally longer the Squamish ones.

Oh I got out this last weekend to climb in Squamish. It was raining like crazy here in Vancouver, but we said whatever. Turned out to be a pretty fun day. I tried my hardest to steal Chapman's Project and landed on my head for my trouble.

I got a flash of that kid breaking his ankle in Rummey when I fell. You can watch the video on DPM.

Jay Smith with spotters... MC's photo.


Thursday, November 12, 2009

One Month To Go!

Tick Tick Tick!

Just a quick note: One month to go. Two more weeks of weighted dead hangs. Three weeks of weights left, 2400 sit-ups, 1000 more pull-ups and two months till I get my 10% yogurt back!


Friday, November 6, 2009

Two Minute Abs!

Well it's been a little while since I gave you a training update.

Since we last spoke I've been training hard! Okay not hard compared to you guys but hard for me.

I've been climbing indoors four days a week and doing weights on top of that as well. The biggest gains I've noticed are weighted pull-ups. I've been doing enough weight were I can only do a maximum of three to four reps. But then when the weight comes off.... It's still three or four but they are a lot easier. Anyways the point of weighted pull-ups is not to make you stronger but to make you recruit as close to 100 percent of your muscle fibers. Feels awesome and makes you look like a bad ass in the gym. At least it would if my training partner didn't use more weight then I do. He looks like a bad ass. I just look pathetic beside him... I say short arms, doesn't have to pull as long.


I've been doing this finger board workout that involves taking as much weight as you can handle while holding a 18mm crimp for ten seconds. The gains are supposed to be huge from this work-out. So far my hands just feel really tired.

On top of everything I've given up white flour and refined sugar as well as all dairy. I'm now 12 pounds lighter... and really grumpy... haha!

My good friend Rich went on a surf trip to El Salvador and caught a parasite causing him to lose close to 20 pounds. He told me he feels stronger than ever. So I've ordered a case of their drinking water. I mean sure he's throwing up and can barely hold a meal down. But the guy is looking good on the campus board.

With Hueco fast approaching I'm trying not to rush the trip. For the simple reason that I have more time to go before I get there then I do actually being there. If I rush this next 5 weeks my four weeks in Hueco will fly by as well.

It is self-evident that I'm psyched for this trip. A whole crew for us are going to be down there. As the count goes Tim, TD, Rich, Thomo, Pete, Vince, Sam and myself and maybe Brent. Should be a lot of laughs.

Today I'm thinking of resting a bit but am going to throw in a ab workout. Along with interval running at the Y. I've been challenging people to one on one in basketball. I say if I beat them they have to race me in wind sprints. I'm undefeated in one on one... but 0 and 50 in races won.

My ten years of no running has made me slow as hell. That and bullying children in basketball makes my ego huge!!! Haha.

Hopefully before I go I can have one good day in Squamish. I really enjoy the winter temps and I have a problem I cleaned off to do before any of my snakey friends catch wind of it.