Wednesday, June 30, 2010

So Sorry!

So sorry Campbell River boulder. I apologize for saying you were a huge pile of crap. Your looks aren't so hot, but the problems on you are awesome. I'm actually psyched to go back and climb more of the problems around your massive girth.

TD, Bubbles and myself slipped away from Reagan and Aimee's wedding this past weekend to climb on the Campbell River boulder. We had exactly one hour to get from the wedding ceremony to the main reception with a bit of bouldering in between. I say get from one event to another, but in reality they were the same venue and we just sprinted away for two hours to climb. Half hour there and half hour back, Both Bubbles and I had left our girlfriends, so we knew if we were late coming back it could make for a long evening.

But man oh man some really rad problems. We quickly ran out of time and family commitments prevented me from going back the next day. I'm jonesing to go back send this problem with a rad sloper.


Thursday, June 17, 2010

The Black Council

The Black Council, originally uploaded by jellie05.

Another angle of The Black Council. I took this photo with Mikes Camera. As you can see my skill with camera far out weighs Mikes camera.

I against I

I against I, originally uploaded by Teacozy Design & Photography.

Just some random photo I found online. Thought I'd post it.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

A small back story!

Well I got up to Squamish yesterday and it was surprisingly dry. Came super close to sending one of my long term projects only to have the crimp I was pulling on to crumble off while I was slapping the lip. Hopefully I'll get it next time.

I was thinking about projects and I thought I'd talk about a boulder problem I established over 8 years ago. Desire.

Sadly Desire was the only boulder problem to be destroyed with the expansion of the new highway. It was also one of the tallest coolest slabs around at just over 10 meters in height it reached the point where falling going for the lip would have dire consequences.

After spending two months slabbing it up in Fontainebleau the granite crystals seemed like jugs compared to the "poffed" glass foot holds in Fonts' forest. My good friend Brent and Mike went to work cleaning the slab on top-rope. At the time of the cleaning we were all convinced that though we believed the slab would go we also believed it to be quite hard and dangerous.

As luck would have it, turns out it wasn't that hard and with my new found skills I managed to climb it first go. I first named it "Street Car Named Desire" due to the height and the close approximation to the road. But with most things the name shortened into "Desire". That summer Desire enjoyed a slight stint in the lime light. Most enjoyably when I took my good friend TD to the problem and had him yell at me the whole time he climbed it claiming I hadn't climbed it and I was sending him head long into his death.

Now anyone can have a piece of Desire if they want. Just walk past the "Cutting edge" and grab a chunk. I was thinking about making a coffee table out of some of whats left.