Tuesday, December 29, 2009

More to learn.

Well last we talked I was in Hueco having the time time of my life.

Well not much has changed. Expect the weather today. It's snowing and cold.

But it dries fast here so I'm not worried about tomorrow.

I've learned that my blog isn't an 8a reporting site so I won't go into details about who sent what or how hard anything is.

Just imagine I'm in a room full of giants and their all in top form.

A little humbling let me tell you. Whether it be some dude who can campus better than I can climb who decides that hanging from a small crimp is the best solution for the problem rather than wasting time finding feet or that some of the hardest problems in the park are a one day affair.

I'm having a killer time here. Though I did have to move from camping out at the rocks. We as a collective whole were robbed. They took stoves, tables and wet wipes? But not my minus 20 sleeping bag so I'm all good.

Well one week to go. I'll post pics when I get back to the true land of the free!

Peace from the middle east... America.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Quick update!

Howdy from Texas!

I'm writing this from a Carl's Jr!

Free Wifi!

So I've been in Hueco a week now. Good times.

The problems are longer than I remembered, should have worked on my power endurance.

So my first day here I managed to finish off my project from four years earlier. It's good to see some progression in my climbing.

I've now been on more tours in one week than my whole last trip. I went to west on my second climbing day. We warmed on Starpower and then went to Best of the Best which is a super cool long ass problem. I spent the first hour figuring out the crux then spent the next hour falling off on jugs at the end. So pumped, so tired. R Our tour was super cool. Thomo took us out along with some other friends so basically we had the run of the park. We finished off the day on disposable heros. Here is tall as hell. TD fired the stand with little drama while I fell off over and over again.

The next day I rested. The next day I climbed on East mountain with Pete, TD and Rich. I got my first taste of Full Service. It's bigger than I remembered and longer and harder. I managed all the moves except holding the big swing. That feels super hard. I think I can do it... It's going to be a battle. I hope I get enough days on it. I have no doubt my broken partner back home when healthy would crush it post haste.

The rest of that day I spent getting spanked on classics in East. Who would have thought it would be this warm in December in West Texas. Feels like high teens or low 20's.

So Yesterday I went to east spur. We tried the Scream and Bathtub. I think Bathtub is more likely than the Scream. Pockets aren't my strong point. Both super cool problems.

I'll write more later. For Now I say
Adios amigos
from West Texas!

Friday, December 11, 2009

It was the night before Hueco...

Leaving bright and early tomorrow morning!

Super psyched. I'll try and update frequently. With Pics and vids.

I'll try and not break anymore classics while I'm down there... But I can't make any promises!
With all this training my power levels will most likely be off the chain!


Saturday, December 5, 2009

One week to go!

Well trainings over. Now I have a week to rest up a bit.

Too bad Squamish is going off the hook this week! I climbed yesterday and it was awesome. Crisp and dry. How good was it? I did Ol' Gite second try. I'm going to head up tomorrow with the Chung brothers and try and get a ton of volume in.

Hueco took a small turn for the worst. One of my main climbing partners broke his leg on Wednesday. Bubbles is down for the count. Spiral fracture of the tibula. He was down in Yosemite working Midnight Lightning when the tricky mantle decided to spit him off. A bit of a weird fall and trip over. Pretty bummed for the big guy. But on a happy note this means a better chance of seeing a new Squamish Climbing Magazine sooner.

I'm going to try and do running updates of the Hueco trip. Though it will be all dependent on TD and if he lets me use his computer... I'm taking my camera down and TD has an HD video camera so maybe we can get some footage of some of the ascents going down.

Can't wait! Though Squamish is super awesome right now too. So those not going better get out this weekend and enjoy the crisp temps.

I'd have some photos from yesterday but all the guys I climbed with are lazy with their uploads!


Seacrest Out!