Monday, January 26, 2009

Bad Day Low Strikes Again!

I don't know what to tell you, there are no excuses. Perfect weather, in shape (relative), plenty of time, nothing.

Shot down, shot down like a clown. I warmed up, I warmed up quite good really. Then headed over to BDL. It was dry, no snow on the top, and felt grippy. I hung on the first move. I thought it was in the bag. 40 tries later I was defeated.

With my head hanging low I climbed the problem beside BDL and spied a new slab that had recently been cleaned. So, I thought a new problem is just the cure for my ego. So I walk up the hill and saw to my dismay that the problem was quite low angle. Maybe 5.6 at the most. A complete waste of my time... (But I'll do it anyways).

First thing I learned is 5.6 can be tricky when it's not 5.6 and it's a lot taller than I originally thought. I climbed to a good stance and realized no more hands and no down climbing. My pad was folded at the bottom so I wouldn't have to step in snow and now I'm facing a ankle breaking fall or a dicey slab dyno (with no hands and a sloppy lip).

Ever get stuck on a problem with no one around? Gives you time to think.

Like: If I yell loud enough will someone coming running?

Will they tell everyone that I'm stuck on a 5.6 slab?

Can I jump and not break something?

Will this dyno to the slopey dirty lip stick?

Can I jump that far?

Why did I stop training my vertical?

Whats for dinner tonight I wonder?

"Fuck" "Shit" "Fuck Shit" "Oh God!"

So long story short I stuck the lip and rushed down to find the nearest someone to trick into climbing it. I was planning my words:

"Awesome new slab"

"climbs so good"

"Super Easy"

It took another day but I got Tim and Mike to climb it. It was even fun to heckle from the sidelines while they stood in that good stance thinking all the same things I did. Though it might have been harder to concentrate with me laughing.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Squamish Tomorrow!

Sorry for the long delay. But I'm back in business, Squamish tomorrow! My finger is a little messed up but I'm going anyways. This is my favorite time of the year for climbing. Cold, dry, high friction days. 

The goal tomorrow is the infamous  problem "Bad Day Low". I've tried this problem more than any single problem in the forest. I know that's saying a lot, however, this problem has shut me down more than anything else. There might be a reason it's on my "Squamish terrors list". 

Well, wish me luck. And no negative thoughts even if your going to be sitting behind a desk tomorrow.