Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Some cool videos.

This video doesn't do this problem justice. Don't believe me go stand under it. I tried the line to the left last Friday. Which is basically 18 feet of V1 then god knows what else for another 10 feet. I jumped down before I had to figure the rest out. Too scary and everyone kept running away when I asked for a spot.

Another video that could be filmed better! Stand back people, get the whole problem in the shot. Maybe a couple cameras, a crane, lights, dancing girls...

Friday, March 12, 2010

Top ten list!

Yesterday was a beautiful day in Squamish.

And as any good climbing day goes, debate raged.

Today's topic of conversation was the "Top Ten Best Boulder Problems in Squamish".

Well, after hearing various problems bandied about, I'll drop my "Top Ten".

10. Viper V5 - Classic movement, comfortable holds, and a safe flat landing. This problem does get over looked for the simple problem of being in the main area and simply taken for granted because everyone and their dog has done it. I also felt this should be included for its interesting history. From classic snake in the beginning with Chris H. cleaning it and Peter slipping behind his back and scoring the first ascent.

9. This Monkey's Gone to Heaven V7 - Absolutely beautiful, tall, proud, and solid for the grade. I believe for a problem to be a classic it needs more than nice movement and comfortable holds.
There needs to be a purity of the line. This monkey has all those things and more.

8. Sling Shot V2 - Maybe the best moderate in Squamish. It flows and has comfortable holds. It is the perfect next step for new climbers. Sometimes the low grades get over looked when people go about making top ten lists but this is an excellent climb and can't be left out.

7. Kung-Fu Fighter V4 - This might be number one on a lot of lists. I couldn't give it that coveted top spot for the sheer fear factor it induces in me. Every time I climb this boulder problem I'm terrified... And psyched when I'm finally on top! Classic line with even better style.

6. Singularity V14 - Most likely the hardest problem in Squamish. Also the most beautiful and would be the top of the list if the sit start wasn't still up for grabs. I plan on climbing this, this year... Only if the HGH really does make a huge difference.

5. Broom V10 - Probably the hardest, proudest slab in Squamish. Three ascents by two very talented rock climbers. This problem stands out in my mind mostly due to nightmares I've experienced dreaming about the consequences of a slip of a foot or miss of a hand hold sending the climber left or right. Never before have I been spotting someone and felt a bit of horror inside my stomach watching someone attempt this amazing climb.

4. Drowning Grip V12 - Can a blank wall be considered top ten? Watching someone climb this is mind boggling. It's over 20 feet tall and goes in four and five moves.

3. Velcro V9 - Just stop and take a look at this problem next time you're in the forest. Beautiful, pure and an absolute Squamish style classic. Improbable crimp slopers to a huge move, crimp. Want mad props from your friends? Send this in August.

2. No Troublems V9/10 - This fell short solely because it's a two boulder problem. The best looking roof in Squamish. Climbs perfect and looks even better.

1. Resurrection V8 - Number one! All you have to do is take one look and there is no doubt. Tall proud and with a flat landing. This problem would get twice the press and twice the hype if it wasn't hidden in the North Walls. Born through the destruction of another problem rumor has it prying off a two hundred pound hold perfected this problem. Sure we all miss "Canadian Stud Bull" but what came of it was twice as good.

Look for my "Top Ten World list".