Sunday, June 6, 2010

A small back story!

Well I got up to Squamish yesterday and it was surprisingly dry. Came super close to sending one of my long term projects only to have the crimp I was pulling on to crumble off while I was slapping the lip. Hopefully I'll get it next time.

I was thinking about projects and I thought I'd talk about a boulder problem I established over 8 years ago. Desire.

Sadly Desire was the only boulder problem to be destroyed with the expansion of the new highway. It was also one of the tallest coolest slabs around at just over 10 meters in height it reached the point where falling going for the lip would have dire consequences.

After spending two months slabbing it up in Fontainebleau the granite crystals seemed like jugs compared to the "poffed" glass foot holds in Fonts' forest. My good friend Brent and Mike went to work cleaning the slab on top-rope. At the time of the cleaning we were all convinced that though we believed the slab would go we also believed it to be quite hard and dangerous.

As luck would have it, turns out it wasn't that hard and with my new found skills I managed to climb it first go. I first named it "Street Car Named Desire" due to the height and the close approximation to the road. But with most things the name shortened into "Desire". That summer Desire enjoyed a slight stint in the lime light. Most enjoyably when I took my good friend TD to the problem and had him yell at me the whole time he climbed it claiming I hadn't climbed it and I was sending him head long into his death.

Now anyone can have a piece of Desire if they want. Just walk past the "Cutting edge" and grab a chunk. I was thinking about making a coffee table out of some of whats left.

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