Saturday, March 7, 2009

New Project.

What's up gang?

I climbed yesterday in Squamish with Mike, Tyson, Jay, Dan and Georg. Judging by the guys I climbed with yesterday you can imagine that it was a tough day for your dear writer. I warmed up then watched Georg and Dan try "Harry met Sally" which forced my inner Spray whore out in full force.

I think the guys got tired of me suggesting beta and made demands for me to put up or shut up.
So I strapped on my shoes and gave my flash attempt to it...

Half a millisecond later I was back on the pad quite pleased with my first attempt. My butt had lifted off the ground.

Second try I touched the first hold before crashing back to earth again.

Third try... Success!

Ya right! As if. And monkeys flew out of my butt dragging me to the top.

This day was going to be a struggle. All the plans for the day involved v11's 12's or open projects. In other words things I'll be lucky to do moments before the moon crashes into the earth changing earths gravity to make me feel light as a feather.

Next up Agoraphobia V11 with soul crushing crimps. My left middle finger, already dealing with a pulley tear, wasn't looking forward to those holds. We met up with Tyson and Jay over warming up on "Boat"(Squamish Classic). Tyson was jazzed to do "Agoraphobia" . So we set down the pads and got to work. Georg almost flashed it but was spit off by bad beta shouted from the peanut gallery.

I was quiet I swear... Or at least I didn't yell for him to hike his foot so high. I was yelling hand beta at that point. So not my fault.

Tyson jumped on next and cruised to the top with little drama and smooth style.

Jay next with a little more grunt but also in easy fashion.

Dan was super close. One more day and he'll send for sure. Georg sabotaged by faulty beta never really tired hard after that and was happy to watch me pull on and fall off over and over.

Though I consider it a personal send being able to hang on all the holds within reach of the ground.

Mike, also making a come back from a finger injury, was close.

Next up was an open project near "Fun Factory". Sort of a way harder left hand version of "This Monkey's Gone to Heaven". A couple hard pulls to a good in-cut side pull. Then a huge lunge to a small crimp five feet away. Tyson, Jay, Dan, Mike and Georg all crushed the opening moves to the throw position.

I was a close sixth with pulling on and touching the first hold.

Georg using his superior wing span and freakish strength got close to grabbing the crimp before raking off a couple of times. The rest weren't far behind when compared to me.

We headed to the problem past "Worm World Cave" the cave put up by Trent Hoover's friend.

Problem needs a name.

I tried this a couple of weeks ago with Tyson and Georg. The first move seemed to be the crux and each of us were having trouble sticking the first move.

However the next time we came back Tyson and Georg both stuck the move first go. What the hell? I'm still in the same crappy can't go anywhere but a circle boat. Georg quickly got to the lip before jumping down claiming the top was too wet. Tyson worked it a couple more tries before getting to the lip and deciding that it wasn't and he was going to turn it regardless of the swamp like conditions. Jay sent a couple tries after that. Georg in the middle of all this decided that the low start wasn't hard enough and ripped the starting crimp off the wall with his massive hands. I mean why do a v14 when you can make it V15.

Dan and Mike had called it a day with Mike taking photos and Dan heckling Georg for good measure.

I spent the remaining time trying to break my hip by falling in the worst possible place.

Needless to say fun day but I don't think I did a single move on any of the problems all day.

Look out for my new list. I'm going to set a project that I can do or at least get some climbing in trying.


Jamie Chong said...

The problem past Worm World isn't a Vince Chung problem? Is it called Send the Pain Below? How hard, 10?

m. said...

The answer to all those questions is yes.