Friday, October 16, 2009

Ticking Clock

Hueco Tanks is slowly approaching.

I'm leaving for my Christmas break on December 12th for three weeks of some of the best bouldering North America has to offer. I'm a little worried about this trip. The last time I was in Hueco I had one of my best climbing trips ever. I have a ton of expectations.

I haven't exactly made a list of problems I want to do but there is one I'd really like to do.

Most likely completely unrealistic. But I really want to do "Full Service". It was one of the first hard problems in Hueco and the first boulder problem rated V10. There's a little bit of history there and I'd like in a small way to be a part of it.

I have a dream list in my mind of problems I'd like to do before I'm too fat or too old to climb hard.
  • Midnight Lightning (Yet to visit)
  • Full Service (Tried for an hour 4 years ago)
  • Ride the Lightning (Squamish's version of Midnight)
  • Big Boss (A classic of the big four in Font)
When I was in Font I made a point to climb all historic firsts that I could.
First 5a Digital, first 6a La Maria Rose, 7a Joker, first 8a... ya right.

So over the next two months I'm training harder then I ever have before. Weights four days a week and climbing every other day. Or even two days in a row.

I watch Progression recently and if you haven't seen it well you're missing out. Watching Patxi train is sick. 3 months without a rest day. 2500 moves a day for endurance, campusing, hangs weight belts and a ton of other madness. Got me completely psyched. A new friend of mine told me Patxi increased his fitness by 5 grades by training like this. Amazing.

So it's on. Two months to go. Time to do some situps and dead hangs.


1 comment:

Peter Michaux said...

That video doesn't show the tall guy beta. When I tried it, I thought it was easier to do the first move out to the H or J and then climb out the right side of the cave to get to the bread loaf rail.