Sunday, June 28, 2009
Do you think your Kung Fu can defeat me?
Quick Squamish update:
Today, in a truly amazing feet, Rich Kupskay sent "Kung Fu" in the Clean Boulders. After battling the problem over a hundred tries today he finally succeeded.
There has been a rumor going around that I only use this blog to brag, so I won't mention that Rich wouldn't have sent without my key beta. I will say that he showed exceptional fortitude to finally succeed.
Friday, June 26, 2009
All hail the Miura VS!
Today I went to Climb-On and bought a new pair of Miura VS with problem X in mind. I've been super close but my heel has been progressively peeling. I thought a new shoe might do the trick. Sadly I have the bottom extremely wired but the top keeps dashing my dreams of success.
A little turned off from my lack of success with problem X I met up with TD and filmed a him doing a bunch of problems on the AM boulder. Maybe it was seeing some super hard problems go down easy or maybe it was a nice rest, but after that we walked over to problem Y. We were a bit short in the pad department so falling would not be an option. I pulled on and for once everything went right. Success! Problem Y went down.
Super psyched about sending Auto-Body it didn't feel that hard just foot dependent. I'm going to chalk this up to my new Muira heel and toe. They stuck like glue and I managed not to screw it up.
Pretty gravy day. Sure I didn't do problem X but Auto-Body went down and so did a few other classics as well. All and all a pretty good day.
Right now I'm going to grow some skin and maybe just maybe I might get lucky on Sunday and finally put problem X to bed.
Photo courtesy of Jamie Chong.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
So you wanna be a rock star!
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Problem Z goes down!
Finally some success to talk about here on the old blog!
Today I managed to put to bed a project that I had a lot of trouble on.
Problem Z aka Bates Motel.
Bit of a battle today as my skin was thin and sweating like crazy.
However I managed to fight the temps and send.
I wouldn't have been able to do it without some great spots from TD and the rest of the cowboys.
I single out TD because he took the people's elbow to the top of the head. I almost knocked him out but he managed to regain his barrings and give a great spot.
Now it's back to project X and Y.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Interesting ideas
So I was trolling the web when I came across an interesting video.
I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?
If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).
Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!
Maybe I'll see you up there.
I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?
If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).
Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!
Maybe I'll see you up there.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Promises:
(photo by Mike Chapman) Awesome representation of Squamish bouldering.
Okay, I know alright. I've been lazy yet again.
I talked about putting up a video but after further review I couldn't bring myself to post it.
The footage is terrible. It was shot with my digital camera (hand held) in a dark forest. So just imagine it was awesome and we'll all leave without disappointment.
So my other promise which I haven't voiced on here, but will do now is...
I'm working on a topo of one or two of my lists. So if your all good boys and girls this might happen in the next few days.
Quick update on project X and Y; came devastating close on project X. Ever get to a move where all you have to grab the jug and all your dreams will come true? I've been there ten times now. Some people would think that it was just a forgone conclusion, sadly I'm the opposite type. I worry that every failure is an opportunity that got away and who knows how many more I have left. I'm going up again tomorrow and I'm going to give it another go. 30 degrees will make it tough but for some bizarre reason I think that if I do it in this heat it will be a champion send.
Oh and a new project might be rearing it's ugly head as well. Project Z just joined the party. I don't know if it was because of the 30 degree weather or if I enjoy trying problems alot. Cool problem though. Might be a soul shatterer if I don't do it next day.
I'm going to make a promise to myself. Start cleaning up these problems now cause its no more mister nice guy! People tell me I climb silent but maybe it's time to put some growl in these attempts!
Oh and I met some cool Austrialians yesterday who have started up a website for people looking for climbing partners. I thought a few of my friends could use this service to meet girls but apparently it's not that type of site. ;-)
Later!
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