Monday, March 21, 2011

What I've been Up to.

So this year I went on record that I wanted to climb 180 days. As of today, I'm on track.

Though climbing 21 days out of a possible 26 in Fontainebleau didn't do wonders to my body.

Some people out in TV land were saying that it's about quality not quantity, to those people I say, "Have you ever had a bad day in Font?" I mean come on man. This isn't Bishop we're talking about here people. This is the single greatest climbing area on earth.

Anyways back to my ailing body. As it stands now my hip flexor feels destroyed, both biceps are screaming from tendonitis, left shoulder feels like it's now two extra feet away from my neck, and both calfs feel like my Achilles tendons are going to snap.

That said I have a play date at the gym here in forty five minutes. Got to keep the dream alive.

Well this trip to Font left me humbled, Life lesson never go on a trip with a guy who will flash every single one of your projects. I mean for some people this would be ok. But for someone who is as competitive as I am, this can be a tad tough...

Well I sent somethings did a bunch of problems avoid slipping on too many condoms and came away with what I think is better footwork, which remains to be seen.

You can check out some photos on my flickr account which is linked at the bottom on this page. Here's a hot video of a few problems I saw and didn't come close to trying. More updates to come I promise. I couldn't really update this blog on my Iphone.

Peace~



Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Happy New Year!

Like everyone else I like to make "New Years Resolutions". This year my resolution is to climb 180 days in 2011. Seems doable but we'll see at the same time.

Now kids out there, this isn't a competition. But I do plan to win this. (I've already bought the trophy...) I will set a couple ground rules for myself and anyone else who wants to play along at home.

  1. For a climbing day to count you must climb 2 hours plus in one calender day. That means you can't go do one boulder problem and count that as a day.
  2. You can however have easy days. That means circuits and high volume days.
  3. Climbing in the gym counts, but skipping a potential outside day counts as -1. If it's raining and you want to climb its fine to climb in the gym. Going to the gym when you could be climbing on real rock is just sad.
  4. If you have any question on whether your climbing day counts feel free to email me. I'll be happy to adjudicate the matter.
Likely reasons your day won't count:
  • Doing pull-ups in your bedroom.
  • Drunkenly bouldering on your RV.
  • Walking around the boulders talking about climbing but never actually climbing.
So incase you missed it, Squamish has been going off as of late. The weather has been amazing. Cold, dry and perfect conditions. Basically every problem is dry and if they are not it's because theres icicles hanging off it (Perfect Weapon..?).

While this weather is awesome, I've been focusing on sending the "7 Terrors". On Sunday I managed to do one I hadn't be able to repeat in 7 years. Needless to say I was psyched. While the weather was good I was going around trying to wire all the problems so incase "Bad Day Low" ever surrenders and I can quickly race across the boulders to try and finish up the list.

Hope you all got out to enjoy the perfect temps. As I look out the window now I see snow beginning to fall. Looks like tomorrow is a gym day...

Later!

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Some Bishop Photos.

Meshkat picking me up to head down to Bishop

Topping out some warm-up in the Buttermilks.

Last Problem I sent before the rains came. Hard to believe when you see the beautiful blue skies in the background.


Georg Jost dwarfing the giant boulders of Bishop.

Meshkat showing off the guns.


The legend!

And that's it! What a trip! I did about 15 problems in two days. But hey weather looks good for the weekend. I'm off to climb in the gym. Time to get some strength.

I'm Out!

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Bust!

Well Bishop sucked.

Haha.

Or at least the weather did. So I got two days of climbing in before Vancouver weather showed up and ruined the climbing trip. I did take some photos. Unfortunately my trip partner (Meshkat) Stole my camera and won't return it.

It took us two days to drive down and two days to drive back. On our first day climbing we decided to go to the Happy's to get the kinks out from the long drive down. Meshkat and myself mostly just warmed up and tried a few of the classics. The next day psyched to go to the Buttermilks we headed up and ran into some good friends from back home. A good warmup in the milks we got talked into checking out Dales camp where a couple awesome problems I'd never seen before were. So we head over to try "Zen Flute". First thing I learned about Dales Camp is it's way colder over there then the Milks. The boulders only get morning sun. So after trying the problem a bunch and getting shut down by small crimps my body begin freeze.

So at that point the day was over for me. I was ice cold and couldn't get back my mojo.

We headed out with sore tips and ready for a rest day.

Little did we know that the next potential climbing day would be sometime in the new year.

After some tough decisions we decided that waiting out the rain wasn't worth it. And checking all the close areas we decided just to drive back rather then lose anymore money on rest day boredom.

The only area within driving distance was Hueco Tanks a 17 hour drive. Unfortunately we had a dog with us so going there wouldn't have been fair on poor Maui.

So now I'm back and dreaming about where to go next.

Peace.




Sunday, December 12, 2010