Hardest Unrepeated Boulder Problems.

Basically I've decided to steal an idea from Climbingnarc.

What are the hardest unrepeated boulder problems in Squamish?

• Singularity V14 (Tim Clifford)

• North Ridge V14 (Georg Jost)

• Zazen V14 (Harry Robertson)

• The Reckoning V14 (TD)

• Big Dragon V13 (TD)

• Everything Roses V13? (TD)

• The Pool V13 (TD) It's known in the book as "The Deep End" but the full name is "The Pool".

At the moment I can't think of any other problems that are considered super hard and unrepeated. I could be wrong. I'd be happy to update this list if it's otherwise. I wouldn't be surprised if one or two of these have been repeated but as far as I know these stand unrepeated.

It would also be rad if I had videos of all of these... Or even pictures.



UPDATE: Found this picture of Singularity, pretty hot.

Anyways later!

Canadian Fit Homeless... Err ish.

Sorry for the lack of updates it's been a crazy month. As we speak I'm writing this from the lobby of the Sandman Hotel in downtown Vancouver. My condo for the last week has been filled with poisonous gas. Yikes I know.

So I've been staying in hotel waiting... Hydrogen Cyanide sounds like some nasty business.

Ok quick update. Got married in Kauai (awesome place, lousy climbing, though potential saw a huge cave), Drank my weight in fruity blender drinks, Returned home climbed in Paradise(Got super psyched on two problems there, got shut down on the hardest 8 in the Squamish), Threw a party (Got drunk on wine and beer), Got home to find out my condo was evacuated, Went climbing yesterday (had one of the best days of the season so far, awesome conditions).

So as we speak I've been wearing the same pair of clothes for the past week. Now I know that's no big deal for some of you smelly folks. But for me that's a bit of change. Anyways I'll post some photos for you all to enjoy.

Peace!

Well summer is over!

Or at least the climbing part of it is for me.

Today was my last day in the forest till September. I'm leaving for Hawaii on Wednesday morning and tomorrow I'm going to spend the day completing the finishing touches on my to-do-list.

Well this years summer wasn't exactly as productive as last years. Sure I sent a few things. But I never really pounded off something awesome. My big three projects are still that. My big three. But Sendtember is just around the corner and hey who knows maybe I won't pack on 20 pounds of fat laying on the beaches doing nothing but drinking and eating, and I'll come back when the temps are a bit better and crush my projects Ondra style (Sorry Sharma, there's a new kid on the block)!

So how would I rate this years summer? I had a ton of laughs and tried hard on most things. I felt like this year was especially hard on the forest. People where off trail like crazy and leaving their trash all over the place.

I wish people could see this place like I do. I love Squamish it's my favorite place to climb on earth. I know! Even more then Font. I just want people to treat it a bit better. But all in all a pretty amazing summer.

I'm off to get married so I'll be on vacation from the forest. I want all of you to watch over the place for me. Give people a hard time if there off trail and hassle them if you see them leave garbage on the ground. Oh and tape from your fingers that needs to be picked up as well. Return the pads you borrow and if it's late at night and you see pads left out pull them under a boulder so they don't get wet in case it rains.

I'm going to take my shoes with me to Kauai rumor has it there is some climbing... But I'm not optimistic.

Well have fun. I'll see you all on the flip side.



The future Mrs!

Sending got me thinking.

Today I sent a project.

Hurray for me and all that jazz!

It was something just about everyone finds easy and I struggled on for over four days. I did all the moves on the first day. And just couldn't put it together.

Then today while no one was around I went up and sent it first try.

It got me wondering if I climb better alone or if I can't handle the pressure of having large groups watch me climb.

I've been in the middle of a climb only to be shouted off a problem by unruly crowd.

In their defense I believe they thought they were helping by shouting beta and giving encouragement.

But maybe I prefer quiet? I don't know. It was interesting today because my project had a scary top-out. But I'd done the top-out before so I was confident that I would send. I told myself to calm down and I walked across the top with little drama.

One of my favorite things about climbing is the social aspect, but maybe when I start feeling like I'm having a mental block on a problem the solution is to get busy on the problem alone.

I tried to send two projects today only to show up and find the pads hidden under the problem gone. I mean I'm willing to try sending alone but I think some problems need protection. Just like some climbers...

Anyways I'm going to try and send as much as possible in the next 7 days. Because after that I'm off to Hawaii to get married. And as everyone knows the minute you get married you start packing on the pounds. I'm already one of the largest boulderers around. God help the holds when I get back from two weeks of eating drinking and chilling on the beach.

I don't have any photos to post lately because my friend Mike Chapman has stopped taking photos of me. The only people he shoots anymore are famous rock climbers. I think getting all those photos in the new Squamish bouldering guide book has gone to his head.

Oh and the rumor that there is a photo of me in the guide is just that a rumor. I think it might be my twin brother Matthæus, but it certainly isn't me that guy isn't sending and I'd only be photographed crushing.

Peace.

Photo Project

Here's a photo I took off the top of the Black Dyke. I'm pretty happy with it. It's five images stitched together. It's my first attempts at photo shop. I actually had to build a weird mount for my tripod to accomplish this shot. Wrapping my head around the concept of nodal point took some figuring out.

Anyways I'm heading up again tomorrow to Squamish. So say hi if you see me!