Tuesday, June 23, 2009

So you wanna be a rock star!

You like all the fame and glory that goes with sending highballs. Just know there are consequences.

Any one wanna try and come up with a flashy title for this pic?

I was thinking: This is what happens when you swallow a softball.

Oh and not my ankle. But I did carry the dude out of the forest.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Problem Z goes down!



Finally some success to talk about here on the old blog!

Today I managed to put to bed a project that I had a lot of trouble on.

Problem Z aka Bates Motel.

Bit of a battle today as my skin was thin and sweating like crazy.

However I managed to fight the temps and send.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without some great spots from TD and the rest of the cowboys.

I single out TD because he took the people's elbow to the top of the head. I almost knocked him out but he managed to regain his barrings and give a great spot.

Now it's back to project X and Y.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Interesting ideas

So I was trolling the web when I came across an interesting video.

I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?



If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).

Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!

Maybe I'll see you up there.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Promises:



(photo by Mike Chapman) Awesome representation of Squamish bouldering.



Okay, I know alright. I've been lazy yet again.

I talked about putting up a video but after further review I couldn't bring myself to post it.
The footage is terrible. It was shot with my digital camera (hand held) in a dark forest. So just imagine it was awesome and we'll all leave without disappointment.

So my other promise which I haven't voiced on here, but will do now is...

I'm working on a topo of one or two of my lists. So if your all good boys and girls this might happen in the next few days.

Quick update on project X and Y; came devastating close on project X. Ever get to a move where all you have to grab the jug and all your dreams will come true? I've been there ten times now. Some people would think that it was just a forgone conclusion, sadly I'm the opposite type. I worry that every failure is an opportunity that got away and who knows how many more I have left. I'm going up again tomorrow and I'm going to give it another go. 30 degrees will make it tough but for some bizarre reason I think that if I do it in this heat it will be a champion send.

Oh and a new project might be rearing it's ugly head as well. Project Z just joined the party. I don't know if it was because of the 30 degree weather or if I enjoy trying problems alot. Cool problem though. Might be a soul shatterer if I don't do it next day.

I'm going to make a promise to myself. Start cleaning up these problems now cause its no more mister nice guy! People tell me I climb silent but maybe it's time to put some growl in these attempts!

Oh and I met some cool Austrialians yesterday who have started up a website for people looking for climbing partners. I thought a few of my friends could use this service to meet girls but apparently it's not that type of site. ;-)

Later!

Saturday, May 23, 2009

The Block

It's been a long time since I last posted. I've been climbing quite a bit but sadly I've come to an abrupt halt in my sending. I don't know what it is or why it is but I can't seem to climb anything.

I don't know if this happens to the rest of you? Or if this is just my mental block.

I will profile two problems: I'll call the first one Problem X and the second Problem Y.

Problem X I've been working on now for close to six months. Coming close to sending in the first week. I have done all the moves and have done large sections in links. However after trying the problem almost every climbing day for two months I had yet to send. So I took a break from trying it when the winter rains kicked in. Sadly while climbing indoors I hurt my finger and wasn't able to try the problem in prime conditions. Now that my finger is back, I went out yesterday and tried the Problem X again. Coming within a move of finishing the hard climbing. My fingers tickled the jug which ends the hard climbing and allows for a bit of rest for the easier finish. After a rest day I headed back to finally send the problem. Sadly it wasn't to be a move I found easy the day before all of sudden became very difficult. I don't know why this is or what the heck is going on.

Problem Y is another problem that is proving to be even more frustrating. I tried this problem with the urging of some friends. I figured it was hard and I'd get nowhere. However after watching a friend climb it and getting a full beta spray down I decided to give it a go. First try my foot slipped off the first move, which is fine that happens to everyone. Next try I climbed past the crux exited the roof planted my foot on little chip and found myself reaching for the last move. sadly I came a little short and fell. So I rested a minute jumped on where I fell did the move easy and jumped off to rest a bit more. In my head I thought this thing is in the bag. It's not too difficult and I should do it next go... Today I sit having tried the problem four days now and yet to get back to that same high point. What the heck is going on? I can do all the moves easy. I just can't put it together.

I'm asking all of you, do you people suffer this same problem? Or am I some freak who has a major mental block?