Matt Climbing Into The Beyond!

Fear and Loathing on my way to Vegas

2011-12-09T12:10:00.000-08:00

Today is the five year anniversary of my most infamous drive from Hueco to Las Vegas.

Now before I get started I thought I talk about a little self reflection I've done over the years since this trip. In the past I've always pictured myself as Sal Paradise, Raoul Duke sort of character in all my adventures. But after reviewing my memories I might be more Neil Cassidy, Dr. Gonzo than I once thought.

To set the stage for this misadventure I have to introduce you to my best friend Gabriel. Gabriel is the kind of guy you meet at a party and you remember his name. Probably because he's lining up some sort of naked sauna roll in the snow.

I met Gabe in the Yukon when I borrowed a Tom Wolfe book from him after a random conversation. When I tried to return the book I found out that he was living in a tent behind the college. That's all well in good except it had dropped to minus 20 the night before. Tracking him down I found him showering in the public bathroom. He said he wanted to show me his tent. Turns out it was more of a tarp held up with a stick. After that Gabe moved into guest room at my parents house.

Fast forward ten years. Gabe was heading to go back from Mexico and knew I was in El Paso Texas.

Gabe emailed asking if he could get a ride to Vancouver if he bused in.

I had just spent 6 weeks having the best climbing trip of my life. I had climbed into shape and was cleaning up my projects left and right. Two days before I was planning to start the long journey back to Canada I drove out of the desert and met Gabe at the bus station. Gabe got off the bus with two friends. A Welsh guy and Gabe's new British sweetheart "Jimjam".

Surprised, I loaded them into the van to head back out into the desert. Before I had made two turns it became clear this travel arrangement was going to be a difficult one. Jimjam was tired from the 20 hour bus ride and wanted to stay in a hotel. Gabe pulled me aside and told me he was down to his last 50 bucks. And one night in the hotel would break him for the rest of the trip. He also told me his Welsh friend was worse off than him.

Feeling bad for my buddy I took them all out for all you can eat pizza. Gabe told me the trip had been good but his love interest was dragging down hard on him. He had got this rash on his privates and was worried it might be a sign of bigger problem. (I tell you this because this is the conversation we had in the lineup for pizza.) He said look man you have to look at this. It's bad and I'm not sure if I need to go to a doctor. So into the bathroom we went were he proceeded to whip it out.

(I'd like to stop here to clarify some things: One I'm not a doctor and know nothing about STD's, two it's not a hobby or passion of mine and three I don't recall really wanting to see this.)

Of course as Gabe is showing me his unholy sausage the door to the bathroom did open and yes someone did walk in. I kid you not. Needles to say I was doubly mortified. One for concerns of charges of indecent exposure or for soliciting sex and two for seeing something that is now burned into my memory for life.

(New rule: No more penis viewings for the remainder of the trip.)

That night Gab and Jimjam got a hotel while me and some random Welsh guy headed back into the desert to spend my last day in Hueco climbing.

I had my single greatest climbing day of my life that day while Gabe and Jimjam wandered the streets of El Paso passing the time until we got back. Needless to say they weren't psyched when we finally got back from climbing for the day. They had to be forced to leave their hotel at 11 and spent the remainder of the day walking the streets hungry. Gabe had spent the last of his money on a hotel and couldn't afford to go to Denny's for a Grand Slam.

When we met them, I shared a couple of my peanut butter sandwiches. My plan was to drive to Bishop with a stop in Las Vegas. I hit the gas station Gabe informed me that Jimjam was having a problem with her bladder and had to go to the bathroom every 20 minutes. I was a bit concerned. I mean that can't work. We're about to do a 12 hour straight drive.

I wasn't psyched. I was of the mind set that every time we stopped for gas, then we could use the bathroom. But I'm not completely heartless. In Gabes pre-trip conference he also informed me that Jimjam tended to get carsick and needed to sit up front.

Ok ok. Easy. Right?

So we filled up and headed out. We had been in the van for ten minutes when Jimjam stated.

"Garybell I have to go to the bathroom."

I mean I was sitting right beside her, no more than two feet away. I thought she was joking. Gabe tapped me on the shoulder from behind.

"Ah guy we needs to stop."

Now I'm not a jerk but two things started to bother me. One, we hadn't been in the van for more 15 minutes and two, why was she has holding a four liter water jug.

As we swung into a gas station on the edge of town, Jimjam ran in to relieve herself. I questioned the logic of this trip. I'm like "Gabe why don't you guys fly". He of course was like "Dude, I don't have anything left".

So five minutes later we were back on the road. As I step on it to get out of town as quickly as possible I begun to notice something troubling. Jimjam wasn't speaking to me directly. It always:

"Garybell, I don't like the music."

"Garybell, I'm cold."

"Garybell, It's too warm in here."

"Garybell, I have to go pee pee."

"Garybell, we're driving too fast."

"Garybell, how much longer."

"Garybell, can't we talk about something else."

"Garybell, I'm thirsty."

One hour into the drive I was at wits end. As we pulled over for our third bathroom break. I decided new rules:

Jimjam sits in the back of the van.

Jimjam is advised to shut up.

Jimjam is advised to cut back on the water.

Oh and Jimjam is strongly advised to shut up.

6 hours in 12 bathroom breaks.

New rule: At least two hours between bathroom breaks.

My eye twitched every time Jimjam broke one of the many rules of road. I'm normally quite sane but this was testing my limits.

"Garybell why can't I sit up front? I like to look at the license plates?"

"Garybell can you get Matthew to play something that isn't so dreary?"

"Garybell I have to go wee."

I knew we weren't going to make it to Las Vegas in a single push. I was on the edge of madness. I pulled into a gas station/rest stop and said we were crashing for the night.

I had a double bed in the back of my van and I planned on sleeping for a few hours and making my way to Vegas the next day.

Now normally I'm a nice guy. "Of course you can sleep in the back... Of course we can turn the heat on... Of course you can have my sleeping bag. But in the last 8 hours she had broken me. I was a stark raving mad man. It may not show on the outside but I was ready to snap.

Gabe and Jimjam were going to sleep up front, me and the random Welsh guy were in the back. Welsh guy could sleep across my feet. Gabe was informed if Jimjam complained she could sleep outside.

When I woke up in the morning the van was empty. When I entered the gas station I found Gabe and Jimjam sitting at a table drinking a hot coco. Gabe had found change sitting on the dashboard and got them a hot drink. Gabe pulled me aside and said that last night was the hardest night of his life. Worst than any of the nights in the tent in the Yukon. He thought they were going to die and that I might sleep through his death.

I felt bad. Gabe was my boy. If he died if would have been terrible. I said "Why didn't he climb in the back and cuddle up?"

Apparently Jimjam asked that very thing.

"Garybell I'm freezing can we trade with them?"

Some one told her:

"Isn't it time for a bathroom break!"

And not in a Welsh ascent...

The next day was much of the same driving. Pulling over and constant whining.

I was forming a plan in my mind as we drove. It won't be written here for legal reasons. My Dr. Gonzo was emerging. Instead of acting like a crazed father with a mini van full of kids, I'd gone to the dark side. After all we were driving through bat country.

We stopped in on the Grand Canyon as we neared Vegas. Sadly Jimjam never got see it. What with bathroom breaks and problems with her camera we left before she made it to the edge.

I'm not one for sightseeing and neither was Jimjam judging by the speed in which she moved once we got there.

Next up the Hoover Dam! With me being the only one with any money to their name, I decided not to pay for parking and rather slowed down to peer out the side of the window.

"Garybell why aren't we stopping?"

"..."

Gabriel is my best friend, hell he was the best man at my wedding and for that reason I didn't drive off on one of our many pit stops on the way to Vegas. But I knew as we neared Vegas it was the end of the line. Jimjam had to go. I still had a few days to go in my trip and I planned to spend a week climbing in Bishop. I had no doubts that Jimjam wouldn't be able to handle sleeping in the desert.

The plan was simple. I'd fit the bill for a hotel in Vegas. Then before dawn broke I'd head to Bishop solo.

I think my plan showed on my face. As I paid the hotel bill the Welsh guy said quietly.

"Can I come too?"

Taking a random stranger over your best friend is quite tough. I knew I couldn't leave without saying something, so while Jimjam was heading to the bathroom. I told Gabe "You can come to Bishop. " He smiled relief on his face. "But she can't. Your choice."

In the end Gabe made the choice that proved he's a great guy. He called his mom and she wired enough cash and he and Jimjam flew back to Vancouver.

Welsh guy and I headed off.

In a way I was Sal Paradise when Dean needed a ride. I just wasn't going in the right direction.

But then again Dr. Gonzo knew the true score. She was one toke over the line.

Climbing is climbing is climbing.

2011-11-24T22:23:00.000-08:00

Funny thing happened to me down at the Tea Shop today. I was talking to a regular customer about climbing when a another person walked in and overheard my conversation. I talking to my regular about her interest in getting into climbing. I mentioned that Squamish has a bouldering coop.

Well the gentalman who had just walked in stated that Squamish didn't have a climbing gym.

"It's a bouldering gym, which isn't climbing."

"Well shucks" I said. Because in all honesty I didn't know what to say to that other than don't listen to this guy, he's an idiot and well I figured that wouldn't go over well.

He went on to compare bouldering to top-roping and it really bugged him when people called that nonsense rock climbing.

I asked if he'd ever been bouldering?

He said he had and that it wasn't at all like rock climbing.

In what sense I asked?

No real answer that didn't involve things like height.

Then I asked the classic rock climbing question. How long have you been climbing?

His answer almost two years.

"Well shucks" I said. "I see now, you don't know what the fuck your talking about".

Ok, I didn't say that, but that's what I was thinking. Because anyone who's climbed for any length of time knows you don't rain on a parade you don't know anything about.

Now I'm not overly interested in ice climbing but I'm not going to tell a ice climber their sport doesn't count because their wearing crampons and wielding axes.

I said that a lot people boulder and "climb" and the ones that do don't hold one above another.

Because its about movement on rock. And just because you jam a cam in now and then doesn't make your sport better than mine.

He said a few other things that made me convinced he was trying to impress my regular. After which he offered to take her out climbing and show her what the sports all about.

But why is it that people get so down on bouldering? Is it because its about pure difficulty? Or is because they go out and try it and get shut down on the "warm ups"?

I'm not trying to be a jerk... Well ok I'm being a bit of a jerk but what's up with "Climbing" snobbery?

The Helmet Situation.

2011-09-07T09:46:00.001-07:00

Time to bring a little humor to the blog.

These past few months my blog has been a bit of a downer for me. I was super upset about the Duncan situation. I don't want climbing arguments or enemies.

I thought I'd tell a little story about me climbing in Australia.

I went to Australia to visit a good friend and climb the amazing sandstone in the Grampians.

After traveling and climbing in Tasmaina, Sydney and the Blue Mountains, my good friend Garrett and I headed down to a Southern area known as the Grampians. We climbed a bunch and had some good laughs but sadly Garrett had to go back to Sydney to work while I was to stay on and climb for a few more weeks by myself. Now normally this is fine in a world class area. Usually there are other climbers to hangout with and people to spot you on your projects. However for some reason the area was completely empty.

Stapleton campground was a ghost town. So each day I'd head out to the boulders and climb until I was wasted then come back to eat until it got so dark that I'd have to sit in my tent reading or watching movies on my 2" ipod.

Finally after a couple weeks a family rolled in on a camping trip. They had two preteen girls and a Dad who worked in the Australian film business. So I quickly latched on to them. I was in need of human contact and this family was my salvation.

As we were sitting around their lantern on the second night of their trip. They asked me what I was doing in the Grampians. I explained I was climbing/bouldering. Having never heard of bouldering before they asked me to explain it. So I said the usual; climbing with no ropes not very high.

(It's funny, the minute you tell someone you climb with no ropes they get this look like they're talking to a crazy person. Some sort of Dan Osman daredevil.)

Well they of course pictured me freesoloing the Tapia Wall. I was very tempted to leave that image in their minds. But sadly I explained climbing not that high as in four feet above my pad caused my legs to shake uncontrollably.

Their next question was whether I wore a helmet while doing this "bouldering" thing. I explained that no one wears a helmet and that there isn't a high danger of hitting ones head with rocks or falling on to it.

They looked at me skeptically but went along with it. I think they thought anyone hardcore enough to spend weeks climbing by themselves probably knew what they were talking about.

The next day as I prepared to go out bouldering I told them they should come along to the campground boulders which were a short walk from our campsite.

Again they expressed concern about my lack of safety equipment but I reassured them it would be fine.

As we neared the boulders I could hear a large group ahead of us. I was a little excited to have some other people to climb with. Then turning the corner I was in shock. There was a group of 20 boulderers all climbing and all wearing helmets.

My new friends turned to me in disbelief.

I'd lost their trust and I'd lost their respect. I was just another cocky kid trying to build himself up as some adventure hard man.

That night I ate alone staring in the dark across at their campsite. They played board games while I ate cold beans out of a can. I wanted to run across and explain it was just a freak occurrence. But the moment was lost. I was tempted to drive into town and buy a helmet just to make peace. But I'm not sure it would of helped.

The End.

Well kiddies. Only 20 some odd days until I'm done the 180 day challenge. Then some much needed rest.

Oh and if you're climbing with redheaded giants be sure to look up cause they can grown angry and toss down small boulders that a helmet would be the only thing to protect you.

Till next time.

Not to beat a dead horse...

2011-08-04T10:16:00.001-07:00

A friend from the Duncan boulders sent me an email with some photos. I'll let them do the talking.

The Duncan Debate

2011-07-19T01:22:00.000-07:00

Yo!

This past week I was over on the island doing some family stuff. Mostly eating, drinking and laughing it up. However I did manage to sneak up to Duncan for a day of sandstone bouldering in one of the hidden gems on the island.

Seriously I'd tell you where it is but you have to cross private property and well you could screw it up so I can't go back. That and it's a 45 minute hike up hill. You'd be too lazy to go there anyways.

Ok, where was I. Oh yes, bouldering in Duncan. Janelle and I hiked up to the boulders to meet up with some friends for a fun day of sandstone bouldering. I don't have many projects up there but I'm always psyched to repeat stuff and just enjoy myself.

While climbing up there I came across a few new boulder problems. What was interesting about the new problems was that they had arrows drawn on them and written names on the boulders.

My first instinct was graffiti and the disappointment that a climber would do something that was destructive to a climbing area I love.

The arrows were around four inches long and there was 4 of them pointing in varying directions. The name was about a foot and half wide and written in red.

I found out that one of the people who had written the names and drawn the arrows was in the forest that day. It felt pretty weird broaching the subject. I didn't want to get super confrontational. But I was feeling really upset about this new ethic. So I asked the individual to have a discussion about the arrows and names. He was receptive and I asked him why he would draw arrows and write the names on the problems. He had two main reasons; 1) he felt that this was a way to make the forest his own and 2) he thought this would prevent boulders from growing over.

Well both these reasons didn't seem like valid reasons to graffiti the boulders and make an eye sore. To his first point I said that no one owns these boulders or lands that he was trying to make ours and by painting on the boulders he would expose our user group as a destructive force in an already fragile climbing area. The main problem with the Duncan bouldering area is that it requires that the boulderers cross private property. Access to the boulders can easily be restricted by the local land owners. I imagine that they would be disappointed to see names and arrows all over the boulders above their land.

To his second point I argued that arrows and names aren't going to prevent regrowth at all. Quality of the problems will prevent regrowth. People climb the good problems and forget about the crappy ones. Same thing happens in Squamish all the time.

One of the problems that had a name on it I climbed and proceeded to add a lower start to. Now do I place a lower arrow? And write a name lower down to show that I've added a harder lower variation? What if someone else finds an even lower variation? Secondly what was funny was the problem I later found out had been climbed ten years earlier and had just regrown. So the name is incorrect on the boulder. All these factors alone seem like reasons not to write names and arrows.

I believe writing the name on the boulder is quite ego driven. You want people to know you did the problem, you want them to see you've climbed it and that the name is given and written permanently. Has climbing ever been helped by knowing the name of a problem? Is the grade the next thing to added? Different colours to highlight feet and hands?

Imagine a boulder that has 20 problems on it? Squamish has a few with that many. What is it going to look like with names painted all over the rock?

No amount of reasoning seemed to be getting through to this individual. He thought he was right and nothing I said seemed to matter. I said we'd been climbing in this area for 12 years and got on just fine without names and arrows. He being a new climber to the area should respect the local ethic. Again he didn't seem to care.

The fact that his actions could cause a large split in the climbing community didn't seem to matter either. The more I debated the more I realized that he wasn't going to change his mind. He said he had this debate with others and based on their disagreements towards arrows he decided to write the names as well.

I didn't have anything more to say after that. I felt like he was a destructive force and a detriment to the community as a whole. To write the names large and bold out of spite was a person I couldn't reason with.

It put a huge damper on an otherwise fun day of bouldering. I won't name names on this blog but I hope the person out there writing names and drawing arrows leaves Duncan alone. I feel the the solution will be to bring graffiti remover next time I head up to the boulders to remove all trace of this ego driven nonsense.

Sorry for a downer post. I promise next time to be all circuits and harder ascents.

Peace.

The Ten Commandments of Bouldering Etiquette

2011-07-06T21:38:00.000-07:00

Thou shall not Gang Bang a boulder problem.*
Thou shall leave a bouldering area better then you found it.
Thou shall only listen to music with headphones.
Thou shall brush off your excessive chalk and ticks.
Thou shall stay on designated trails.
Thou shall give attentive spots.
Thou shall not brag or spray excessively.
Thou shall keep your language and tone to a reasonable level.
Thou shall think of the area more than yourself.
Thou shall control your animal's behaviour.

*** Gang bang -- To show up to a boulder problem in a large group and proceed to attack the boulder with no respect for the boulder or anyone else trying it. A classic gang bang move is to steam roll a small group with a larger one finally forcing the small group to leave due to the loud obnoxious behaviour. Usually gang bangers don't brush or clean feet between tries. Gang bangers often have one or two climbers who have climbed the problem before who either sit to the side spraying about past glory or trying to climb said boulder with street shoes.

More then half way home!

2011-06-30T20:45:00.000-07:00

I'm a unstoppable climbing machine!!!

Or at least that's my mantra before I go to sleep each night.

My body is sore! Boom!

I don't think climbing five days a week would be so bad if I wasn't in the middle of a training program.

Basically I've been forced to do weights and pull-ups on climbing days. It's making it difficult to feel 100% while climbing.

Though I do feel stronger, it hasn't lead to many new sends.

So far I've climbed 43 days in Squamish this year. Which when I write it, it doesn't seem like that much. But I did go away for a month. I'm more than halfway done my climbing goal for the year.

Today I finally dropped under 200 pounds. Now I know what your thinking, "Holy crap that guy was a fat bastard". But my mother was married so I'm not a bastard. Yes I was gigantantor. But I am bigger than you so that does mean I'm going to weigh more than the average bear.

The weather this year has been really weird. It's rained a lot. More than I can remember in previous years. That said I've still been able to get out and go climbing.

Driving to Squamish when it's pouring in North Van is very hard on psyche. It's tough to have faith that my friends in Squamish aren't messing with me. I mean if someone told me it was going to be dry and it wasn't, damn I'd feel betrayed.

Kidding!

So it's been a busy year so far in the forest with many traveling climbers. I love seeing new faces, and seeing people hyped to get out and climb. A couple things that does suck however is coming up to your project and there's some dudes playing crappy music with their cell phone. I'm not a hater of music or anything but I'd rather just enjoy nature without listening to electric guitars over an iphone. Also the amount of garbage in the forest increases as well as people wandering off trail.

A couple of goals for the rest of the summer are:

190... Pounds
150 Days by the end of August
A bunch of hard new problems
Do the highball project I cleaned off
100 problem day in the forest
200 point climbing day (might happen on the 100 problem day)
20 pull-ups in a row
Deadlift 500
#AIDIW

Anyways that's my goals and blah blah blah.

Oh and if I didn't ask I don't want to know how many tries it took you... Joking! I'm glad you told me that way we both know how awesome you are...

Peace!

Ask and you shall receive.

2011-05-21T13:17:00.000-07:00

(Photo courtesy of Mike Chapman) Big Bang North Walls Squamish.

Hi Gang,

I thought I'd write a blog post as I sit around waiting for the apocalypse. There's only a few more hours till I beam up to heaven so I might as well give you all one last blog while you experience the worst five months ever. The new fifth horseman Osama is going to be the worst!

While I know later today I'll be floating on a cloud without a care in the world, I thought I'd tell you what I've been up to the last two months since last we spoke.

Well I haven't taken much of a break since coming back from France. I've climbed 34 days in the last 2 months along with weight training every other day. And shocker of all shockers I took a Yoga class last Wednesday.

But I've also gone to physio for my pulled groin and now strained right knee.

I sprained my knee five weeks ago trying and failing on one of my longest running projects. Of course this happened when I finally made a huge breakthrough on the problem. Doing all the moves finally and cross-linking the bottom and the top.

Even though I can't right heel hook I'm super tempted to bite down hard and give it another try. Though at the moment common sense seems to be winning. That and limping isn't as much fun as it looks.

My weight training is going well. Or at least I think it is. I haven't noticed very many gains but I imagine that will take sometime. My brother was nice enough to give me two weight lifting bars (35 and 45 pound bars) along with just over 400 pounds of weight. I've been super interested in doing deadlifts and other lifts which I couldn't do with just dumbbells.

Deadlifts are awesome. I feel like a mother lifting a car off their trapped child every time I lift. Eat your heart out Bruce Banner from the TV show. Its a funny thing seeing what your max is and where you should aim to do your "work weight". I just stacked all the weight on the bar in the house to see what my max was. And quickly realized I'm not as strong as my imagination.

No strong man competitions in the near future.

A couple things with my goal to climb 180 days. Its hard on your body. Don't believe me? Well next year give it a try. Your body will be asking you for rest but you know that you have to get your days in. Every sunny day feels like it could be your last so you have to get out there and do battle with the stones.

That said, I'm having a lot of fun going for it. Right now I have a small lead on a friend but their an underhanded sneak who will go climbing even though they tell you their taking a rest day.

Jokes on them, two can play at that game...

What I've also learned is that I can climb multiple days in a row. In years past my body seemed to completely shut down if I went two days in a row. But I think I've conditioned myself to climb 2, 3, and even 4 days in a row. Antihydral is your friend people, especially if your in the + 200 pound world that I am.

Though I have noticed all my climbing and weight lifting has caused my weight to drop a bit. So if you see me in the forest you can tell me how slim I look and that the little black dress hasn't looked better on me.

Hell maybe in a few months I'll be back under 200 and talking about how I can ride in airplanes without having to buy two seats.

Well I'm off to find some white robes for my exit to heaven.

Stay clean people!

What I've been Up to.

2011-03-21T11:51:00.000-07:00

So this year I went on record that I wanted to climb 180 days. As of today, I'm on track.

Though climbing 21 days out of a possible 26 in Fontainebleau didn't do wonders to my body.

Some people out in TV land were saying that it's about quality not quantity, to those people I say, "Have you ever had a bad day in Font?" I mean come on man. This isn't Bishop we're talking about here people. This is the single greatest climbing area on earth.

Anyways back to my ailing body. As it stands now my hip flexor feels destroyed, both biceps are screaming from tendonitis, left shoulder feels like it's now two extra feet away from my neck, and both calfs feel like my Achilles tendons are going to snap.

That said I have a play date at the gym here in forty five minutes. Got to keep the dream alive.

Well this trip to Font left me humbled, Life lesson never go on a trip with a guy who will flash every single one of your projects. I mean for some people this would be ok. But for someone who is as competitive as I am, this can be a tad tough...

Well I sent somethings did a bunch of problems avoid slipping on too many condoms and came away with what I think is better footwork, which remains to be seen.

You can check out some photos on my flickr account which is linked at the bottom on this page. Here's a hot video of a few problems I saw and didn't come close to trying. More updates to come I promise. I couldn't really update this blog on my Iphone.

Peace~

Happy New Year!

2011-01-11T22:53:00.000-08:00

Like everyone else I like to make "New Years Resolutions". This year my resolution is to climb 180 days in 2011. Seems doable but we'll see at the same time.

Now kids out there, this isn't a competition. But I do plan to win this. (I've already bought the trophy...) I will set a couple ground rules for myself and anyone else who wants to play along at home.

For a climbing day to count you must climb 2 hours plus in one calender day. That means you can't go do one boulder problem and count that as a day.
You can however have easy days. That means circuits and high volume days.
Climbing in the gym counts, but skipping a potential outside day counts as -1. If it's raining and you want to climb its fine to climb in the gym. Going to the gym when you could be climbing on real rock is just sad.
If you have any question on whether your climbing day counts feel free to email me. I'll be happy to adjudicate the matter.

Likely reasons your day won't count:

Doing pull-ups in your bedroom.
Drunkenly bouldering on your RV.
Walking around the boulders talking about climbing but never actually climbing.

So incase you missed it, Squamish has been going off as of late. The weather has been amazing. Cold, dry and perfect conditions. Basically every problem is dry and if they are not it's because theres icicles hanging off it (Perfect Weapon..?).

While this weather is awesome, I've been focusing on sending the "7 Terrors". On Sunday I managed to do one I hadn't be able to repeat in 7 years. Needless to say I was psyched. While the weather was good I was going around trying to wire all the problems so incase "Bad Day Low" ever surrenders and I can quickly race across the boulders to try and finish up the list.

Hope you all got out to enjoy the perfect temps. As I look out the window now I see snow beginning to fall. Looks like tomorrow is a gym day...

Later!

Some Bishop Photos.

2010-12-29T14:22:00.000-08:00

Meshkat picking me up to head down to Bishop

Topping out some warm-up in the Buttermilks.

Last Problem I sent before the rains came. Hard to believe when you see the beautiful blue skies in the background.

Georg Jost dwarfing the giant boulders of Bishop.

Meshkat showing off the guns.

The legend!

And that's it! What a trip! I did about 15 problems in two days. But hey weather looks good for the weekend. I'm off to climb in the gym. Time to get some strength.

I'm Out!

Bust!

2010-12-23T11:32:00.000-08:00

Well Bishop sucked.

Haha.

Or at least the weather did. So I got two days of climbing in before Vancouver weather showed up and ruined the climbing trip. I did take some photos. Unfortunately my trip partner (Meshkat) Stole my camera and won't return it.

It took us two days to drive down and two days to drive back. On our first day climbing we decided to go to the Happy's to get the kinks out from the long drive down. Meshkat and myself mostly just warmed up and tried a few of the classics. The next day psyched to go to the Buttermilks we headed up and ran into some good friends from back home. A good warmup in the milks we got talked into checking out Dales camp where a couple awesome problems I'd never seen before were. So we head over to try "Zen Flute". First thing I learned about Dales Camp is it's way colder over there then the Milks. The boulders only get morning sun. So after trying the problem a bunch and getting shut down by small crimps my body begin freeze.

So at that point the day was over for me. I was ice cold and couldn't get back my mojo.

We headed out with sore tips and ready for a rest day.

Little did we know that the next potential climbing day would be sometime in the new year.

After some tough decisions we decided that waiting out the rain wasn't worth it. And checking all the close areas we decided just to drive back rather then lose anymore money on rest day boredom.

The only area within driving distance was Hueco Tanks a 17 hour drive. Unfortunately we had a dog with us so going there wouldn't have been fair on poor Maui.

So now I'm back and dreaming about where to go next.

Peace.

Bishop Tomorrow

2010-12-12T22:50:00.000-08:00

Updates to come!!!

Peace!

Reel Rock tour!

2010-11-25T12:31:00.000-08:00

Last night was the "Reel Rock Tour", I'll let the video speak for it's self.

I'm psyched to go climbing, I just don't know about all this white stuff on the ground outside.

Blogged down.

2010-11-23T18:48:00.000-08:00

Sorry for the lack of updates.

Been a brutal last two months.

First my motivation went down hill.

Then my condo was filled with poisonous gas.

Then I moved.

Then a death in the family.

The loss of my brother has been hard to handle.

But I'll solider on, because I think he wouldn't want me moping around.

Squamish has been awesome the last week.

It's been cold. Today I spent the day up there with my good friend, Meshkat. It was -8 Celsius;

that's 18 f for you yanks.

I'm trying to whip myself into shape. I'm planning to go down to Bishop at Christmas and want to send a couple problems. I made a promise to a friend in Australia that i'd send his project for him...

Tomorrow is the Reel Rock tour in Vancouver. So I'm going to inject some motivation.

Maybe another bouldering day outside too.

I'll try and remember to bring my camera for some pics for you guys.

Peace!

Hardest Unrepeated Boulder Problems.

2010-09-25T13:11:00.000-07:00

Basically I've decided to steal an idea from Climbingnarc.

What are the hardest unrepeated boulder problems in Squamish?

Singularity V14 (Tim Clifford)

North Ridge V14 (Georg Jost)

Zazen V14 (Harry Robertson)

The Reckoning V14 (TD)

Big Dragon V13 (TD)

Everything Roses V13? (TD)

The Pool V13 (TD) It's known in the book as "The Deep End" but the full name is "The Pool".

At the moment I can't think of any other problems that are considered super hard and unrepeated. I could be wrong. I'd be happy to update this list if it's otherwise. I wouldn't be surprised if one or two of these have been repeated but as far as I know these stand unrepeated.

It would also be rad if I had videos of all of these... Or even pictures.

UPDATE: Found this picture of Singularity, pretty hot.

Anyways later!

Canadian Fit Homeless... Err ish.

2010-09-23T11:26:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the lack of updates it's been a crazy month. As we speak I'm writing this from the lobby of the Sandman Hotel in downtown Vancouver. My condo for the last week has been filled with poisonous gas. Yikes I know.

So I've been staying in hotel waiting... Hydrogen Cyanide sounds like some nasty business.

Ok quick update. Got married in Kauai (awesome place, lousy climbing, though potential saw a huge cave), Drank my weight in fruity blender drinks, Returned home climbed in Paradise(Got super psyched on two problems there, got shut down on the hardest 8 in the Squamish), Threw a party (Got drunk on wine and beer), Got home to find out my condo was evacuated, Went climbing yesterday (had one of the best days of the season so far, awesome conditions).

So as we speak I've been wearing the same pair of clothes for the past week. Now I know that's no big deal for some of you smelly folks. But for me that's a bit of change. Anyways I'll post some photos for you all to enjoy.

Peace!

Well summer is over!

2010-08-16T23:52:00.000-07:00

Or at least the climbing part of it is for me.

Today was my last day in the forest till September. I'm leaving for Hawaii on Wednesday morning and tomorrow I'm going to spend the day completing the finishing touches on my to-do-list.

Well this years summer wasn't exactly as productive as last years. Sure I sent a few things. But I never really pounded off something awesome. My big three projects are still that. My big three. But Sendtember is just around the corner and hey who knows maybe I won't pack on 20 pounds of fat laying on the beaches doing nothing but drinking and eating, and I'll come back when the temps are a bit better and crush my projects Ondra style (Sorry Sharma, there's a new kid on the block)!

So how would I rate this years summer? I had a ton of laughs and tried hard on most things. I felt like this year was especially hard on the forest. People where off trail like crazy and leaving their trash all over the place.

I wish people could see this place like I do. I love Squamish it's my favorite place to climb on earth. I know! Even more then Font. I just want people to treat it a bit better. But all in all a pretty amazing summer.

I'm off to get married so I'll be on vacation from the forest. I want all of you to watch over the place for me. Give people a hard time if there off trail and hassle them if you see them leave garbage on the ground. Oh and tape from your fingers that needs to be picked up as well. Return the pads you borrow and if it's late at night and you see pads left out pull them under a boulder so they don't get wet in case it rains.

I'm going to take my shoes with me to Kauai rumor has it there is some climbing... But I'm not optimistic.

Well have fun. I'll see you all on the flip side.

The future Mrs!

Sending got me thinking.

2010-08-10T23:32:00.000-07:00

Today I sent a project.

Hurray for me and all that jazz!

It was something just about everyone finds easy and I struggled on for over four days. I did all the moves on the first day. And just couldn't put it together.

Then today while no one was around I went up and sent it first try.

It got me wondering if I climb better alone or if I can't handle the pressure of having large groups watch me climb.

I've been in the middle of a climb only to be shouted off a problem by unruly crowd.

In their defense I believe they thought they were helping by shouting beta and giving encouragement.

But maybe I prefer quiet? I don't know. It was interesting today because my project had a scary top-out. But I'd done the top-out before so I was confident that I would send. I told myself to calm down and I walked across the top with little drama.

One of my favorite things about climbing is the social aspect, but maybe when I start feeling like I'm having a mental block on a problem the solution is to get busy on the problem alone.

I tried to send two projects today only to show up and find the pads hidden under the problem gone. I mean I'm willing to try sending alone but I think some problems need protection. Just like some climbers...

Anyways I'm going to try and send as much as possible in the next 7 days. Because after that I'm off to Hawaii to get married. And as everyone knows the minute you get married you start packing on the pounds. I'm already one of the largest boulderers around. God help the holds when I get back from two weeks of eating drinking and chilling on the beach.

I don't have any photos to post lately because my friend Mike Chapman has stopped taking photos of me. The only people he shoots anymore are famous rock climbers. I think getting all those photos in the new Squamish bouldering guide book has gone to his head.

Oh and the rumor that there is a photo of me in the guide is just that a rumor. I think it might be my twin brother Matthæus, but it certainly isn't me that guy isn't sending and I'd only be photographed crushing.

Peace.

Photo Project

2010-07-23T21:26:00.000-07:00

Here's a photo I took off the top of the Black Dyke. I'm pretty happy with it. It's five images stitched together. It's my first attempts at photo shop. I actually had to build a weird mount for my tripod to accomplish this shot. Wrapping my head around the concept of nodal point took some figuring out.

Anyways I'm heading up again tomorrow to Squamish. So say hi if you see me!

A day in the Northwalls.

2010-07-16T20:39:00.000-07:00

My skin sucks!

But as a founding member of "Team Weak", I'm used to failure. Anyways my good friend Reagan made a video from the other day enjoy.

North Walls Bouldering in Squamish from Reagan Daly on Vimeo.

Drew crushing and the big guy greasing the place up.

Second Story

2010-07-13T22:22:00.001-07:00

, originally uploaded by squamishphoto.

I'm posting this so you can all see my sweaty mitts. Just look at my thumb!

Anyways Peace Out Homies!

Well my climbing season is over!

2010-07-11T00:07:00.000-07:00

Easy there kids, no need to send get well cards and fruit baskets.

The weather here in Squamish has turn a few degrees hotter then hell.

The name of this blog says it all. Yukoner (down under). I'm a cold weather kid.

It's been over thirty degree's (That's over 90 for you imperialists) here for the past week and none of my projects will get done with this heat.

Today I spent the day working a couple new problems but the heat was shutting my skin down royally. Imagine climbing with a wet plastic bag over your hands then times that by a thousand and your somewhere near how my skin feels.

That said I'm heading up again tomorrow... I know crazy.

So as of now I'm in float mode. I'm over worrying about sending and just climbing for the pure enjoyment of losing skin.

Oh check out the new Squamish guide book. If you look carefully you might even catch a glimpse of yours truly making funny faces and climbing.

Photo I took with my new Rebel. Marek crushing Houdini.

Here's a video of Bubbles and Reagan climbing in Squamish.

Paradise Boulders in Squamish from Reagan Daly on Vimeo.

I think I might check this place out on Wednesday.

Peace.

So Sorry!

2010-06-30T15:14:00.000-07:00

So sorry Campbell River boulder. I apologize for saying you were a huge pile of crap. Your looks aren't so hot, but the problems on you are awesome. I'm actually psyched to go back and climb more of the problems around your massive girth.

TD, Bubbles and myself slipped away from Reagan and Aimee's wedding this past weekend to climb on the Campbell River boulder. We had exactly one hour to get from the wedding ceremony to the main reception with a bit of bouldering in between. I say get from one event to another, but in reality they were the same venue and we just sprinted away for two hours to climb. Half hour there and half hour back, Both Bubbles and I had left our girlfriends, so we knew if we were late coming back it could make for a long evening.

But man oh man some really rad problems. We quickly ran out of time and family commitments prevented me from going back the next day. I'm jonesing to go back send this problem with a rad sloper.

Peace!

The Black Council

2010-06-17T13:06:00.001-07:00

The Black Council, originally uploaded by jellie05.

Another angle of The Black Council. I took this photo with Mikes Camera. As you can see my skill with camera far out weighs Mikes camera.

I against I

2010-06-17T12:40:00.001-07:00

I against I, originally uploaded by Teacozy Design & Photography.

Just some random photo I found online. Thought I'd post it.

A small back story!

2010-06-06T12:37:00.000-07:00

Well I got up to Squamish yesterday and it was surprisingly dry. Came super close to sending one of my long term projects only to have the crimp I was pulling on to crumble off while I was slapping the lip. Hopefully I'll get it next time.

I was thinking about projects and I thought I'd talk about a boulder problem I established over 8 years ago. Desire.

Sadly Desire was the only boulder problem to be destroyed with the expansion of the new highway. It was also one of the tallest coolest slabs around at just over 10 meters in height it reached the point where falling going for the lip would have dire consequences.

After spending two months slabbing it up in Fontainebleau the granite crystals seemed like jugs compared to the "poffed" glass foot holds in Fonts' forest. My good friend Brent and Mike went to work cleaning the slab on top-rope. At the time of the cleaning we were all convinced that though we believed the slab would go we also believed it to be quite hard and dangerous.

As luck would have it, turns out it wasn't that hard and with my new found skills I managed to climb it first go. I first named it "Street Car Named Desire" due to the height and the close approximation to the road. But with most things the name shortened into "Desire". That summer Desire enjoyed a slight stint in the lime light. Most enjoyably when I took my good friend TD to the problem and had him yell at me the whole time he climbed it claiming I hadn't climbed it and I was sending him head long into his death.

Now anyone can have a piece of Desire if they want. Just walk past the "Cutting edge" and grab a chunk. I was thinking about making a coffee table out of some of whats left.

Projects!

2010-05-31T22:48:00.000-07:00

Here we are again... Summer.

Or at least that's what my computer calender tells me. Looks like freaking December with all this rain we've been having. I had a funny phone call today where a friend of mine talked about how he thought we could climb this coming Sunday because the forecast called for only 3mm of rain. Then in the next breath also reminded me of the thousand or so millimeters called for before Sunday.

So instead I'm stuck daydreaming and contemplating climbing in the gym this week.

As many of you know I love new problems. To the point where I get a little excited and desperately try and do the first ascent. Whether it's a link up through six old problems. I love new stuff and I like doing first ascents so I can give them clever or interesting names.

Since we last spoke I finally got up the go to try this project I've been blabbing about for the last four years.

Tyson, Chappy and myself went and checked it out. I gave it a bit of a brush and we got to work trying it. Right away I learned one thing. Its hard but has good holds. I got next to no where with Tyson putting the first move together but hitting a stopper move. We all left the first day disappointed but psyched to come back and keep working on it. A couple days later I rounded up some pads and went to work on it again by myself. I was hoping some magic beta would appear and I would unlock this puzzle. Sadly I got spanked again. I saw Tyson again and told him all my new failures and convinced him that though they didn't work for me they would certainly work for him...

I think all my new beta did was wear him out instead of helping him succeed. We both left again defeated. The next day up there my friend TD showed up and I told him all about the project and he seemed interested. We gathered the up pads and also picked up Tim Clifford.

I now knew that my dreams of putting up an amazing new problem were over. Two monsters were going to session this project into submission while I stood around and suggested beta that no one wanted to try.

TD quickly fired the crux only to be stopped on the next move by a huge dyno with frightening consequences. He tried a few more times and put the problem to bed for the night. Conditions were bad and no one wants to jump to a sloppy hold with wet skin.

The next day I met up with TD and we gathered up ten pads and made the safest landing we could.He showed up and I told him that no matter what I was going to catch him if he missed the dyno. He got on and fired the first four moves then loaded up for the dyno while I shouted that I had him and it was all good.

He fired while I realized in a split second that if he missed the dyno he was going to fly over my head even though I jumped in a volleyball style block. Not to toot my own horn but I can dunk a basketball from standing under the rim and he was well over my hands.

But he stuck and quickly climbed to the top. He was psyched as was I, though probably for different reasons. I was convinced he was going to sail over my head and hit a huge boulder behind me and I think he was happy that he stuck the dyno and fired a new amazing problem.

TD said he didn't care what it was named and said I could come up with a name. Well I just said the first thing out of my mouth as I always do. Which was "The Black Council" it was reference from a book I just read and was stuck in my head. Though I like the sound of it.

Mike took some photos of the problem, though if you guys don't know Mike broke his arm the next day while walking a slack line on his birthday. So he's been nursing his arm rather then photoshopping me out of the photos. I took a couple of photos as well but I'm still rocking a film camera and well I can't find a way to stick my camera roll into this computer without making a mess.

So photos of The Black Council will have to be put up on a later date.

My goal this summer is to climb my new big three as well and scope out a new project I might get before all you monsters find it first.

Update! After I posted Chappy dragged himself to his computer and uploaded this to flicker with his teeth.

The Black Council

Peace!

2010-05-16T21:30:00.000-07:00

Hey Gang.

Long time no see... Well for you anyways. I've been seeing all of you a lot. This blog connects to your webcams and well some of you do some weird things while reading this blog.

Been climbing a lot lately. My buddy Mike hasn't been taking too many photos. Lazy sod!

But a couple of my friends from Victoria went on a three week trip to Font. Here's there video.

three weeks in font from Reagan Daly on Vimeo.

This video gets me so psyched! I've been harassing Janelle about going on a three month trip there. I want to rent apartment and really get busy on all there amazing problems.

Oh here's a photo Mike took there other day of the living legend Austrian Rock master.

For any of you who haven't tried picking this rock up with a pinch lets just say it ain't easy.

Now imagine tossing it in the air and catching it in the other hand. Feel free to try it. The rock is usually sitting beside the Superfly boulder.

Peace.

Where my heads at!

2010-04-12T22:25:00.000-07:00

Sorry, sorry I know.

You've been pressing the refresh button for the last 3 weeks straight.

Here's the news. Lots of projects on the go and sadly most of them have been none climbing related. That and the weather here has been terrible. Lots of rain, and even more rain.

I had a big long weekend planned to drive down to Leavenworth and see what all the fuss was about. Just about every weather site I checked told of the coming apocalypse. So no joy. Instead I spent the Easter weekend eating and eating and eating and sitting on the couch watching movie after movie. So not only was I missing out on climbing fun, I was sabotaging my future climbing days with Mac and Cheese pizza.

This last weekend the weather finally broke. I sent out a dove and it returned with dry rock. Got out to Squamish this weekend and just climbed around and put out some feelers of potential spring projects. There were a lot of volunteers but I haven't found the something to really catch my eye and have me devout the next two months to.

So I'll leave you all with some hot photos from my good buddy Mike Chapman. He's the guy I steal 90% of all my photos from. Mike's been talking about putting out a Squamish Climbing coffee table book. I think it could be a real hit with large glossy photos. And the book could also act as a coffee table if you attach legs to it.

More to come!

Some cool videos.

2010-03-23T17:25:00.000-07:00

This video doesn't do this problem justice. Don't believe me go stand under it. I tried the line to the left last Friday. Which is basically 18 feet of V1 then god knows what else for another 10 feet. I jumped down before I had to figure the rest out. Too scary and everyone kept running away when I asked for a spot.

Another video that could be filmed better! Stand back people, get the whole problem in the shot. Maybe a couple cameras, a crane, lights, dancing girls...

Top ten list!

2010-03-12T12:22:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a beautiful day in Squamish.

And as any good climbing day goes, debate raged.

Today's topic of conversation was the "Top Ten Best Boulder Problems in Squamish".

Well, after hearing various problems bandied about, I'll drop my "Top Ten".

10. Viper V5 - Classic movement, comfortable holds, and a safe flat landing. This problem does get over looked for the simple problem of being in the main area and simply taken for granted because everyone and their dog has done it. I also felt this should be included for its interesting history. From classic snake in the beginning with Chris H. cleaning it and Peter slipping behind his back and scoring the first ascent.

9. This Monkey's Gone to Heaven V7 - Absolutely beautiful, tall, proud, and solid for the grade. I believe for a problem to be a classic it needs more than nice movement and comfortable holds.
There needs to be a purity of the line. This monkey has all those things and more.

8. Sling Shot V2 - Maybe the best moderate in Squamish. It flows and has comfortable holds. It is the perfect next step for new climbers. Sometimes the low grades get over looked when people go about making top ten lists but this is an excellent climb and can't be left out.

7. Kung-Fu Fighter V4 - This might be number one on a lot of lists. I couldn't give it that coveted top spot for the sheer fear factor it induces in me. Every time I climb this boulder problem I'm terrified... And psyched when I'm finally on top! Classic line with even better style.

6. Singularity V14 - Most likely the hardest problem in Squamish. Also the most beautiful and would be the top of the list if the sit start wasn't still up for grabs. I plan on climbing this, this year... Only if the HGH really does make a huge difference.

5. Broom V10 - Probably the hardest, proudest slab in Squamish. Three ascents by two very talented rock climbers. This problem stands out in my mind mostly due to nightmares I've experienced dreaming about the consequences of a slip of a foot or miss of a hand hold sending the climber left or right. Never before have I been spotting someone and felt a bit of horror inside my stomach watching someone attempt this amazing climb.

4. Drowning Grip V12 - Can a blank wall be considered top ten? Watching someone climb this is mind boggling. It's over 20 feet tall and goes in four and five moves.

3. Velcro V9 - Just stop and take a look at this problem next time you're in the forest. Beautiful, pure and an absolute Squamish style classic. Improbable crimp slopers to a huge move, crimp. Want mad props from your friends? Send this in August.

2. No Troublems V9/10 - This fell short solely because it's a two boulder problem. The best looking roof in Squamish. Climbs perfect and looks even better.

1. Resurrection V8 - Number one! All you have to do is take one look and there is no doubt. Tall proud and with a flat landing. This problem would get twice the press and twice the hype if it wasn't hidden in the North Walls. Born through the destruction of another problem rumor has it prying off a two hundred pound hold perfected this problem. Sure we all miss "Canadian Stud Bull" but what came of it was twice as good.

Look for my "Top Ten World list".

Update and What not.

2010-02-20T12:42:00.001-08:00

Since we last spoke I said some things, you said some things we talked, but did we really communicate?

I'm now in Las Vegas, the weirdest place in the states. You can drink in the streets, smoke indoors, gamble and get prostitutes all legally.

The trip started off a bit rocky. We were supposed to leave Friday after work and drive as far as possible. However my good friend TD called up around 2 in the afternoon and wanted to know if I wanted to come to the opening ceremonies of the Olympics? Well of course I said yes. I'll most likely never see anything like that live and a free ticket was impossible to turn down. This of course put a monkey wrench in our take off plans. We however decided to leave the next morning after the show.

I'll say this about the Olympics. They don't go cheap with theatrics. That and 6 hours is a long ass time to sit in one chair. I had a really good time and am glad I went. I know I've been critical of the Olympics and I still feel rightly so, but it's hard to fault athletes and locals for enjoying themselves. I cheered along with everyone else when the thousands of athletes marched through the stadium. Anyone who dedicates themselves to thousands of hours of training to compete for the love of sport falls into the same thinking as climbing.

After a night of fun we woke up early and hit the road. Driving for 8 hours we arrived in Pendleton, Oregon a little tired but no worse for wear. We grabbed a cheap hotel and crashed out for the night. I've noticed that my Dean Moriarty gun-hoe is all but finished. I used to drive non-stop to where ever my final destination was. Now I'm done after 8 hours.

The next day disaster struck and our car lost power while passing a 18 wheeler. Janelle managed to pull the car off to the side of road without getting us killed. I switched and crawled the car another mile down the road to a pull off before the car completely died.

Stuck in the middle of nowhere Idaho. A very kind man pulled over and offered to call us a tow truck. In no time a flat bed truck was loading us up and driving us back to Mountain Home to spend the night then to be towed even further back to Boise the next day. Driving an Audi has it's perks... unless you break down then it's a money pit. Small lesson learned: Purchase AAA or BCAA otherwise you'll get a 339 dollar tow bill. Also one computer chip costs over 600 dollars to install and takes 7.5 hours. So after two wasted days we were back on the road and headed to Las Vegas. That night we stayed in Twin Falls, grabbed a hot-tub and hit the road early racing the rest of the way to Vegas.

Getting in quite late we decided we'd stay in another hotel. And if you're going to stay in Vegas might as well stay on the strip. The cheapest being the Excalibur... for good reason. Ghetto! But we played some slots lost across the board and ate grease pizza. The next day we headed out to Red Rocks and set up our tent and went to check out the bouldering.

Cool rock, small area, lots of crimps and pockets. Not my forte. But we've decided to spend at least 5 days here climbing and hanging out.

The weather has been a bit warm for my liking. 25 degrees Celsius is hot. But Janelle's enjoying the weather and catching a bit of a tan.

Right now it's raining so we're trying to decide weather to drive to Bishop or head to LA to check out Hollywood.

I guess I'll post photos later where I can find better internet. Sorry I know reading this is easier when you can skip most of it to check out pics.

Peace from bat country.

Oh Hi to my faithful readers in Oman! You guys rock!

Peace Out!

2010-02-12T00:34:00.000-08:00

Okay maybe I don't have the Olympic spirit. And while the rest of Vancouver swells with Canadian pride I'll be crimping on rocks, but I do have to say this So long and thanks for all the fish!

I'm heading down to Las Vegas to check out Red Rocks and while down there I might check out Flagstaff or head to Bishop.

As always I'll post pics and witty remarks.

So long!

Ethics

2010-02-04T12:52:00.000-08:00

I've been thinking about climbing ethics a lot lately. So I thought I'd throw down a list of some of my main issues and some other ethics that others have mentioned as well.

1. The Dab. (To come in contact with the ground or an object outside of the climb itself whether it be a person or tree)

Okay with all ethics there seems like there could be some grey area. For me if I'm climbing a problem I haven't done before no dab is allowed. Now if I've climbed the problem before cleanly the dab becomes a bit less strict. Feet touch the ground... Red Card. Eject. Sorry, but you have to treat the ground like its acid. You can keep going if you don't use the part that touched the ground... even when topping out (That's right, drag your body over the top... most likely you'll still be called out). Now if you're trying a problem which requires a super close spot, on red-point, if you swing out and touch the spotter. Sorry Red Card. Please step off the problem and begin again. This sucks I know. Sometimes its no ones fault. You probably could have held the swing but the spotter fearing for your life attempted to prevent you from dying. Still...

2. Spray down. (To inform someone of beta while their climbing)

This is a tough one because 9 times out of 10 the persons goal is to help you succeed while climbing. However every now and then it's a sandbag. Some people do it intentionally, others unfortunately not. Here is an example. You hit the crimp for the first time and someone screams right foot by your left hip. You hike it up there and then damn, you're screwed (The guy yelling is either more flexible or shorter, stronger, more talented or just good on crimps). What ends up happening is you fall off. Only to stare up in disbelief at the foot hold that you should have used making the move do-able. Now this is a two way street because sometimes you're in a desperate situation and without a little spray you might fall.

"Jug on your left."

This is fine. Unless their trying to on-sight the problem. Then you've stolen the on-sight from them... Tricky.

3. Power Spot. (To take weight off a climber to enable them to do a move or climb to a high point.)

I'm not so concerned about this. But people I know are against this. Some see a difference between a power spot and stacking the pads to reach higher holds. To me they are one and the same, but to others there is a difference. The power spot is fine by me as far as working a boulder problem. However you can't say you've done the problem with a power spot no matter how little weight was taken. This falls in to the issue in number 1 The dab.

4. Tick Mark. (To draw a line or dot above or below a hold. To allow the climber to know exactly where and how to grab the hold.)

Seems like a none issue right? Wrong! Travel to France and you will see a road map drawn on every boulder guiding you to holds that may or may not be of any use. Some people see tick marks as an eye sore. I don't mind them. However if they are longer than 3 inches they look brutal. I like to think in Squamish it isn't a huge issue (What with the amount of rain we receive each year). However, my ethics tell me that all tick marks should be removed after each session on a boulder or route for that matter. Keep them short and only place them when absolutely necessary. That means try the problem first. I know some people who are against them altogether. They enjoy learning the problem without the visual aids. The trick I use sometimes is to just simply chalk the holds in advance. This makes the problem move visible...

5. Cheering/Encouraging. (To shout positive words to inspire the climber to succeed.)

Seems like a no brainer, right? Hearing "Come on!" ten thousand times in a four move problem can be a bit distracting. I'm not against this per say... I am just against distracting a climber through cheering. Screaming "YES!" after every move, or husky whispering from my spotter can cause me to forget my main objective and think about other things. Also please! Please! If I'm warming up without a pad don't shout "Come on!" "You can do it!" Most likely I've done this problem before... It kills my ego... Sorry. I find it very distracting... To the point where I might fall off. Things that bother other people I know are yelling "Breathe!". This kind of makes sense. They've been doing it their whole lives and they haven't needed a reminder before. Some people don't like the different language encouraging. For me no funny voices or half-assed efforts made facing the wrong way not watching the action. "Come on man..." In a lazy voice. What's the point of that? Better to be silent.

6. Spray. (To brag about your climbing accomplishments or your friends ascents.)

Hey I get it. You almost sent the problem in your running shoes! But guess what princess, I don't care! That's right. I know your name is John and you're working the "Mandala", but I already know ten people who have done it. Hell one of the guys I know flashed it.

Spray; we all do it... Well most of us anyways. You're psyched you sent your project and you want everyone to feel as good as you do at that moment (I call it my inner ball of happiness.). There are ways of expressing this right and wrong. Right: Tell your friends who you've been forcing to spot you for the last 6 months. They'll be happy... (that and they don't have to go back there with you anymore.) Wrong: Telling a random stranger/Strong guy.

"Hey do you know so-in-so?"

Other guy. "Ya."

You. "I did Techo!"

Wrong, wrong, wrong. What the hell is the person supposed to say after that? This actually happened to a friend of mine. I thought he should of been like:

"You did?" "That's soooooooo AWESOME!!!!!"

Then screamed for everyone to come touch this god like person.

7. Lying (Do I really have to explain this?)

We all lie! When you do it about climbing it's weak! It's your ego talking. You want people to be impressed. It sucks big time when you get caught. I heard a funny story about a guy at the local brew pub who was bragging to some girls about sending some long route.

"Ya we crushed it." Shrugging modestly.

However his friend overheard this conversation.

"No you didn't! You fell all over the place on that."

Guy "Well you didn't send it either!"

Friend "Ya well I didn't say I did."

My ethics on this are simple. Don't lie unless you want to be busted. Also I don't accuse people of lying about climbing. It's more fun to speculate behind their back.

"How the hell did he climb that when it was raining all day?"

7. Top Rope Rehearsal. (To climb a boulder problem on top rope then later climb it without rope.)

Now I have nothing against people who do this. I've come close to this kind of thing myself. When I climbed "Desire" back in the day I cleaned it with a rope then climbed it with a rope a few feet away with the thought in mind if things got too hairy I could grab the rope. I never ended up touching the rope but in someways I always felt it tainted the ascent.

Now back to rope rehearsal. I think it's fine, however I just don't think you can say you bouldered the problem after you've climbed it with a rope. It's now "Head-Pointing" or "Soloing". I think there is a large difference between bouldering and Head-Pointing. One with bouldering you're climbing into the unknown and you're forced to figure out moves for the first time. I believe it's a little like onsighting as compared to flashing a problem. You have less of an idea. Now Head-Pointing does make sense; you're making sure that every hold will take your weight and you're figuring out the beta without endangering yourself. Making the problem as safe as possible. I think for my "Ethics" I don't care either way or how you climb something... Just don't say you bouldered it when you didn't!!!!

Just kidding...

Anyways I'm sure there a many other points I can bring up but I'll think of them later and maybe do a follow up post.

Peace.

What happened to the winter?

2010-01-22T20:22:00.000-08:00

Man it was 15 degrees today! Awesome for climbing in a t-shirt not so good for the winter Olympics. Squamish is a gong show at the moment. With the impending doom that is the 2010 Winter Olympics a little over two weeks away, there are Vanoc security helicopters buzzing the boulders all day long. It's a little bit of nightmare in the making. But with that said I did manage to get my day of January bouldering in.

I could say I wish it was a bit drier but hey beggars can't be choosers. A day climbing is a day climbing.

Here's a photo Mike Chapman took of today's climbing.

Hopefully this weather holds for one more day and I can get up there again tomorrow.

Peace from the warmest place on earth that's hosted a Winter Olympics.

Last of the Hueco Photos

2010-01-08T09:48:00.000-08:00

Photo's that Vince sent from our trip south of the border.

"Come on!" "Sooo Strong!"
Inside Joke I know but you had to be there to get it.

White out.

Crimp that!

Ghetto!

Just three guys, who are having a good time. Having a good time.

Now I'm a crack climber!

Good conditions!

"Hey do you want to do a new problem?"
"Sure."
"You have seven minutes to do it." "And there will be 6 other people trying it at the same time"
".... sweet..."

"The German's"

Lucas going for it.

Rich in the middle of a journey.

Rich in need of some roughage in his diet.

"Smooth Move"

"Wonder hole"

Awesome warm ups.

Highballing!

The other German.

Is that Fred's forearm?

Maybe next trip....

Peace!

Photo's from Hueco!

2010-01-06T11:15:00.001-08:00

I didn't take too many photo's...

What can I say I was too busy trying to climb these super awesome problems.

"Best of the Best" problem? Or Traveling partner?

I'm not such a booze hound as this picture implies. The cans were there when I got there.

Supposedly this problem is hard... Just seemed like a dyno to a jug.

Five flapper day!

Thank you "Flame"

Though flappers still can be fun.

"Bathtub" =

Super long!

Merak resting!

One of these things is not like the other.

He was okay he had his Spiderman blanky!

"Free Willy" =

More flapper fun.

TD crack climbing.

I'll post more photos when Vince emails the ones he promised!

Peace.

Sitting at the Office

2010-01-02T05:14:00.000-08:00

For those of you who've never been to Hueco Tanks you might not know that they only allow 70 people to visit North mountain a day. 60 with reservations and 10 walk in's. Today I'm in the walk-in group. It's quite competitive. I've been staying in the park campground this last week and if you want a walk in spot you have to get to the office early.

Like me at 5:30 am...

Now normally I wouldn't be so keen but it's Rich's last day and we need to get into the park.

Hueco is an awesome climbing area. But it could be better. It could be like every other area that you have free range.

So I'm sitting at the office waiting to go bouldering! Debating the three other cars beside me about waiting in the cars or standing in line by the door. It's -7 right now... 19 for you Yanks. I say we wait in the cars then make a made rush for the office at 8.

Keen to Climb!

More to learn.

2009-12-29T10:41:00.000-08:00

Well last we talked I was in Hueco having the time time of my life.

Well not much has changed. Expect the weather today. It's snowing and cold.

But it dries fast here so I'm not worried about tomorrow.

I've learned that my blog isn't an 8a reporting site so I won't go into details about who sent what or how hard anything is.

Just imagine I'm in a room full of giants and their all in top form.

A little humbling let me tell you. Whether it be some dude who can campus better than I can climb who decides that hanging from a small crimp is the best solution for the problem rather than wasting time finding feet or that some of the hardest problems in the park are a one day affair.

I'm having a killer time here. Though I did have to move from camping out at the rocks. We as a collective whole were robbed. They took stoves, tables and wet wipes? But not my minus 20 sleeping bag so I'm all good.

Well one week to go. I'll post pics when I get back to the true land of the free!

Peace from the middle east... America.

Quick update!

2009-12-20T12:35:00.000-08:00

Howdy from Texas!

I'm writing this from a Carl's Jr!

Free Wifi!

So I've been in Hueco a week now. Good times.

The problems are longer than I remembered, should have worked on my power endurance.

So my first day here I managed to finish off my project from four years earlier. It's good to see some progression in my climbing.

I've now been on more tours in one week than my whole last trip. I went to west on my second climbing day. We warmed on Starpower and then went to Best of the Best which is a super cool long ass problem. I spent the first hour figuring out the crux then spent the next hour falling off on jugs at the end. So pumped, so tired. R Our tour was super cool. Thomo took us out along with some other friends so basically we had the run of the park. We finished off the day on disposable heros. Here is tall as hell. TD fired the stand with little drama while I fell off over and over again.

The next day I rested. The next day I climbed on East mountain with Pete, TD and Rich. I got my first taste of Full Service. It's bigger than I remembered and longer and harder. I managed all the moves except holding the big swing. That feels super hard. I think I can do it... It's going to be a battle. I hope I get enough days on it. I have no doubt my broken partner back home when healthy would crush it post haste.

The rest of that day I spent getting spanked on classics in East. Who would have thought it would be this warm in December in West Texas. Feels like high teens or low 20's.

So Yesterday I went to east spur. We tried the Scream and Bathtub. I think Bathtub is more likely than the Scream. Pockets aren't my strong point. Both super cool problems.

I'll write more later. For Now I say

Adios amigos

from West Texas!

It was the night before Hueco...

2009-12-11T20:12:00.000-08:00

Leaving bright and early tomorrow morning!

Super psyched. I'll try and update frequently. With Pics and vids.

I'll try and not break anymore classics while I'm down there... But I can't make any promises!
With all this training my power levels will most likely be off the chain!

Peace!

One week to go!

2009-12-05T15:50:00.000-08:00

Well trainings over. Now I have a week to rest up a bit.

Too bad Squamish is going off the hook this week! I climbed yesterday and it was awesome. Crisp and dry. How good was it? I did Ol' Gite second try. I'm going to head up tomorrow with the Chung brothers and try and get a ton of volume in.

Hueco took a small turn for the worst. One of my main climbing partners broke his leg on Wednesday. Bubbles is down for the count. Spiral fracture of the tibula. He was down in Yosemite working Midnight Lightning when the tricky mantle decided to spit him off. A bit of a weird fall and trip over. Pretty bummed for the big guy. But on a happy note this means a better chance of seeing a new Squamish Climbing Magazine sooner.

I'm going to try and do running updates of the Hueco trip. Though it will be all dependent on TD and if he lets me use his computer... I'm taking my camera down and TD has an HD video camera so maybe we can get some footage of some of the ascents going down.

Can't wait! Though Squamish is super awesome right now too. So those not going better get out this weekend and enjoy the crisp temps.

I'd have some photos from yesterday but all the guys I climbed with are lazy with their uploads!

Slackers.

Seacrest Out!

Remember when I said...

2009-11-18T11:38:00.000-08:00

That climbing wasn't extreme?

Well I still stand by that statement, however I just watched this Youtube clip of freaking Dean Potter again.

I don't think I need to say too much more on this.

So 24 days till I leave for Hueco! The next two weeks is time to really go hard in my training.

That means more abs! The terrible type, the vomit inducing type. More finger board work and now some endurance work too. Hueco's problems are generally longer the Squamish ones.

Oh I got out this last weekend to climb in Squamish. It was raining like crazy here in Vancouver, but we said whatever. Turned out to be a pretty fun day. I tried my hardest to steal Chapman's Project and landed on my head for my trouble.

I got a flash of that kid breaking his ankle in Rummey when I fell. You can watch the video on DPM.

Jay Smith with spotters... MC's photo.

Laters.

One Month To Go!

2009-11-12T13:17:00.001-08:00

Tick Tick Tick!

Just a quick note: One month to go. Two more weeks of weighted dead hangs. Three weeks of weights left, 2400 sit-ups, 1000 more pull-ups and two months till I get my 10% yogurt back!

Word!

Two Minute Abs!

2009-11-06T11:49:00.000-08:00

Well it's been a little while since I gave you a training update.

Since we last spoke I've been training hard! Okay not hard compared to you guys but hard for me.

I've been climbing indoors four days a week and doing weights on top of that as well. The biggest gains I've noticed are weighted pull-ups. I've been doing enough weight were I can only do a maximum of three to four reps. But then when the weight comes off.... It's still three or four but they are a lot easier. Anyways the point of weighted pull-ups is not to make you stronger but to make you recruit as close to 100 percent of your muscle fibers. Feels awesome and makes you look like a bad ass in the gym. At least it would if my training partner didn't use more weight then I do. He looks like a bad ass. I just look pathetic beside him... I say short arms, doesn't have to pull as long.

Anyways.

I've been doing this finger board workout that involves taking as much weight as you can handle while holding a 18mm crimp for ten seconds. The gains are supposed to be huge from this work-out. So far my hands just feel really tired.

On top of everything I've given up white flour and refined sugar as well as all dairy. I'm now 12 pounds lighter... and really grumpy... haha!

My good friend Rich went on a surf trip to El Salvador and caught a parasite causing him to lose close to 20 pounds. He told me he feels stronger than ever. So I've ordered a case of their drinking water. I mean sure he's throwing up and can barely hold a meal down. But the guy is looking good on the campus board.

With Hueco fast approaching I'm trying not to rush the trip. For the simple reason that I have more time to go before I get there then I do actually being there. If I rush this next 5 weeks my four weeks in Hueco will fly by as well.

It is self-evident that I'm psyched for this trip. A whole crew for us are going to be down there. As the count goes Tim, TD, Rich, Thomo, Pete, Vince, Sam and myself and maybe Brent. Should be a lot of laughs.

Today I'm thinking of resting a bit but am going to throw in a ab workout. Along with interval running at the Y. I've been challenging people to one on one in basketball. I say if I beat them they have to race me in wind sprints. I'm undefeated in one on one... but 0 and 50 in races won.

My ten years of no running has made me slow as hell. That and bullying children in basketball makes my ego huge!!! Haha.

Hopefully before I go I can have one good day in Squamish. I really enjoy the winter temps and I have a problem I cleaned off to do before any of my snakey friends catch wind of it.

Peace!

Grades

2009-10-23T11:49:00.000-07:00

Another confession:

I think about grades... a lot.

The idea of grades is quite interesting if we could expand on them a bit.

I'd like to run some experiments where you test a climbers overall strength along with weight, reach and experience.

It's interesting for me to watch a climber at the gym doing pull-ups, dips, campusing, dead hangs and compare them to another climber who has climbed the same amount of time but who does not spend the time training as above. Sometimes the non-trainer climbs harder grades.

Lets put it like this. If someone can do twice as much pull-ups, twice as much dips, is better at campusing but ends up climbing two grades lower, what is the reason?

Is climbing about grip strength? Does technique matter most?

Or is it a mental aspect that makes grades attainable for some and not others?

I know of climbers who can do one-arm pull-ups but haven't cracked double digits. Seems strange to me because I always felt like finger strength and lock off ability make for strong climbers.

The best climbers in the world are not necessarily the best athletes in the sport.

So what makes a strong climber?

My theory is muscle recruitment. The best use everything at once, they push their bodies to as close to one hundred percent as possible.

Chris Sharma Pachamama 9a+ from Campblog on Vimeo.

Old Video

2009-10-18T10:56:00.000-07:00

Found this video on my hard drive.

Thought I'd throw it up to get you all psyched.

I didn't film this, but when I watch this I'm amazed a little man can jump this high!

Be on four.

If you want to know the history of the name of this problem, feel free to ask me if you see me in the forest. It's funny but not appropriate for a family blog...

Ticking Clock

2009-10-16T11:57:00.000-07:00

Hueco Tanks is slowly approaching.

I'm leaving for my Christmas break on December 12th for three weeks of some of the best bouldering North America has to offer. I'm a little worried about this trip. The last time I was in Hueco I had one of my best climbing trips ever. I have a ton of expectations.

I haven't exactly made a list of problems I want to do but there is one I'd really like to do.

Most likely completely unrealistic. But I really want to do "Full Service". It was one of the first hard problems in Hueco and the first boulder problem rated V10. There's a little bit of history there and I'd like in a small way to be a part of it.

I have a dream list in my mind of problems I'd like to do before I'm too fat or too old to climb hard.

Midnight Lightning (Yet to visit)
Full Service (Tried for an hour 4 years ago)
Ride the Lightning (Squamish's version of Midnight)
Big Boss (A classic of the big four in Font)

When I was in Font I made a point to climb all historic firsts that I could.
First 5a Digital, first 6a La Maria Rose, 7a Joker, first 8a... ya right.

So over the next two months I'm training harder then I ever have before. Weights four days a week and climbing every other day. Or even two days in a row.

I watch Progression recently and if you haven't seen it well you're missing out. Watching Patxi train is sick. 3 months without a rest day. 2500 moves a day for endurance, campusing, hangs weight belts and a ton of other madness. Got me completely psyched. A new friend of mine told me Patxi increased his fitness by 5 grades by training like this. Amazing.

So it's on. Two months to go. Time to do some situps and dead hangs.

Peace!

Song Stuck in My Head.

2009-09-23T18:03:00.000-07:00

You ever get a song stuck in your head?

I've been listening to this song over and over to get it out of my head, but it's yet to cure it.

I find blog posts are a lot like songs replaying in my head. I think about them a lot until I finally either write it down or bang my head on the wall until my mind goes blank.

Lately I've been replaying my first meeting with Chris Sharma in my head.

He came to town to promote Dosage 1 and I went to see the movie and hear him speak after the fact. In Dosage he climbs Realization. A route he tried nearly a hundred times. I could relate to that even though I've never really committed to a route which is as involved as that. Seeing as I only boulder it was cool to imagine hiking 45 minutes up hill, doing forty some odd moves only to blow the crux over and over.

One of the main reasons I really got involved in climbing was after watching Rampage. When I saw Sharma climb it looked super fun.

After watching him climb Realization, myself and the rest of the audience were pumped. Chris had just gotten back from walking across Japan where while away he learned to play the flute. He played for a short while and at first I thought this seemed a little strange but once I realized he was quite good it was pretty cool. Needless to say we were all a little star struck.

After the show Chris stuck around to sign autographs. Myself and a friend decided we'd go up and say hi. I was going to say thanks for the show and it was pretty cool. My friend on the other hand went off the deep end.

How it went down.

Me. "Hey cool talk, congrats on the big send."

Chris "Thanks man."

Me "Looks like Squamish is going to good tomorrow. You should come up, it's going to be prime."

Chris "Really? You think it will be dry?"

Me "For sure."

Chris "Might just happen."

My friend ".... I just wanted to tell you your my hero. And you inspire me. I love you man."

Awkward silence.

Chris "Thanks man."

Well I made a run for it. Because the truth was while my friend might of aired his feelings a little too much, he was speaking what the rest of us were thinking. But in my mind he destroyed any chance of Chris seeing us as cool guys that would get to climb with him.

Well the next day I went climbing in Squamish. As I was walking by the Octagon boulder there was a huge crowd. Chris was trying an undone project while 30 people stood around and watched. I felt sorry for him. But not enough not to get into the mix. I mean a chance to see Chris climb in real life was too much to pass up. As I pushed my way through the crowd for a better vantage someone said:

"Hey Matt, get in there and spot him, the top-out's dodgy."

So I walked forward. Not only was I going to get to watch him climb but in a small way I was going to be apart of it. Man I was psyched.

Chris sent after a few more tries and even discussed beta with me as he was working it out.

Pretty cool experience. I know it seems a bit lame but if Micheal Jordan was shooting jump shots and someone said get in there and fetch rebounds for him I would jump at the chance. In a way it was very much the same with Chris.

That and he was cool about the whole thing the day before. Either that or he was thinking with all these people watching I wasn't going to tackle him and try and get a lock of his hair.

Climbing is one of the few sports where the top athletes are super accessible to the average climber.

In my travels I've been very lucky to meet and see most of the top boulderers climb that I've looked up too.

Remind me later to tell you about the time I pretended I didn't know who Fred Nicole was and got to watch him climb one of the hardest boulders in the world.

Later.

The Return!

2009-09-19T12:43:00.000-07:00

I'm back! Sorry for falling off the map. I'd like to say I've been super busy and every time I tried to write a blog something major came up, but that rings false. Lets face it. I was watching youtube videos or bad movies like "The Room".

In the last month I drove up to the Yukon for a visit, got engaged, and started school for the fall semester.

My visit to the Yukon was good. Climb-wise not so much. I wanted to check out a bunch of the climbing areas in northern B.C. along the way up to the Yukon but most of it fell through. The Ruth lake boulders were so unimpressive I didn't bother putting on my shoes. And the boulders outside Prince George were soaking wet due to a super heavy rain storm.

In the end I didn't climb until Janelle and I made it to Whitehorse.

I did manage to pull one over on Janelle by springing a sudden marriage proposal on her along the way up north. Sure we haven't been dating that long but I say why wait when you know you've met the one.

Oh on a side note if you want a trip with your girlfriend to go well it's not a bad idea to have jewelery on hand to keep spirits high.

In Whitehorse we stayed at Boréale Mountain Biking. It consist of super nice boutique yurt accommodations with really cool owners that just happen to be some of my best friends. Great hosts but be warned, people in the Yukon love food and drink so except your waist line to grow if you head up for a visit. Unless of course your biking all day or climbing regularly.

The weather in the Yukon was cold! Flat out. Everyone I talked to went on and on about having the best summer in recent memory. Too bad Janelle and I only saw rain and icy temperatures.

I did manage a few days climbing while we were up there. The Rock Gardens are worth a visit. It offers a few boulders but mostly its a single pitch crag area with most of the climbs being top ropes. I climbed all the boulders that I could find with most of them being really nice moderates. I don't know what type of rock it was but it was different from anything I've climbed on before. Sort of like granite but without crystals and with a tiny honey comb texture. Very grippy too bad there wasn't more and with big roofs!

I also managed to borrow a four by four thanks to Marsha's (owners of Boreale) mom and we got to go out to the Ibex Valley. It's a pretty bad road needing some pretty big clearance. The Audi wouldn't have made it.

Having been to the Ibex 9 years earlier I really wanted to try some of the problems that shut me down all those years ago. I learned a couple of things. One I still am the worlds worst mantler and I have better foot work so some things are easier but I need to do more dips. I manage every problem except on stupid mantles. Which I fall off about 20 times before giving up.

The Ibex is a beautiful climbing area which makes you feel completely isolated. So if you want to climb in a super exotic area it might be the place for you. Not a lot of problems. But enough for a couple of days for sure.

The trip back to Vancouver was a bit epic. It's closer to drive to L.A. then Whitehorse from Van. But in one day we saw 5 bears two moose and bison. The scenery is world class though which beats the hell out of the I5 any day.

Well now that I'm back in Van its time to get my train on. I have Hueco Tanks coming up at Christmas and this trip I'd really like to do Full Service. I know that's a lofty goal but I think it's attainable. I've been doing a weight program along with an ab routine that has been making my abs hurt for days afterwards.

I'll post photos of the bouldering up north. I left my camera cord in the Yukon so I have to wait until it gets here to finish up loading the rest of photos.

Talk to you guys again soon.

Peace!

New List and New Assignment

2009-08-19T13:55:00.000-07:00

Howdy Kids!

New list for you Squamish rock feigns to devour. The Squamish Terrors list was a huge hit. Exactly one person attempted it. So I thought I'd kick it up a notch with an even harder meaner list.

Say Hello to "The Impossible 7"

Square Cut Low
Quick Stick
Sniper
Vitamin D
Shakedown Sit-down
University Crawl
Pat's Problem up and left of Mr. Bigglesworth

I would love to hear about anyone who does these 7 problems in a day. You'd be the man! Or Woman! The challenge has been thrown down. Can anyone pick up the gauntlet?

Oh and in other news I'm heading up to the Yukon tomorrow for some travel, laughs and maybe a bit of bouldering along the way. Squamish Climbing Magazine asked me to do a trip report of the bouldering in Ibex. So I hope to get some good photos and interesting stories.

Till next time.

Are you a climber?

2009-08-13T23:50:00.000-07:00

So here I am just minutes from midnight doing what I do most...

No not that!

Ok fine, doing what I do second most,

thinking.

Anyways, I was thinking what it took to be considered a climber. And what defines a climber. Sorry, but grades don't really imply here. I was thinking about being a climber -- I mean a real climber, not that guy you meet at a party that inevitably says he's a climber too when your introduced as one. You know who I'm talking about. The guy who's done a few top ropes at the gym, 3 times tops. That guy isn't a climber.

Sorry, but he isn't. Now if he top ropes at the gym all the time and is passionate about it then fine he can be a climber.

But the guy I always meet is just some dude who wants talk about being extreme. Climbing isn't extreme!

Ok fine, Dean Potter you're extreme and like three other guys who are more crazy than anything.

Anyways back to the topic at hand.

Passion. Being a climber is about passion. To love something so much that it becomes all consuming. Here is an example; you have every holiday for the next year booked on a climbing trips. Then you're a climber. Or you drive across town in 40 below to climb at the local gym because you got stay in shape for climbing season. Then you're a climber and a nut job.

I climbed two years before I really thought of myself as a climber and less of a poser loser. Which I sometimes fall back into.

Now I'm not saying I didn't have passion, no far from it. I went a little over board when I first started climbing. I climbed one day at Flemming Beach in Victoria then went on a week long climbing trip to Squamish. Came back to Victoria packed up my stuff and moved to Squamish and climbed the next 32 days in a row.

For the record I didn't know you were supposed to take rest days. I got invited on a road trip to Smith Rocks with the two guys who talked me into climbing for the first time. They thought I'd gone off the deep end.

But still I wasn't a climber, not by my strict sense of what a climber is. I don't know what it was but when I looked at the other guys I climbed with I didn't feel I was one of them yet.

Yes I wore a toque even in the summer, yes I started skipping showers, yes I started neglecting the opposite sex. Hell I even contemplated moving into a van, but I still didn't make the cut.

So what made me a climber?

Janelle and I decided to go on a two month climbing trip to France. We set up our tent in Font and didn't move it the entire time. We climbed like crazy, I finally picked up some foot work, but I wasn't a climber when we got home but I felt myself getting close.

The day I became a climber I remember very well. Because I remember thinking this is it; no longer a poser. I sent my project which I had worked for a full year. And it wasn't the send, it was the glowing feeling of success that I got from it. Something I'd yet to experience to that extent. It was my passion rewarding me for my hard work.

Being a climber is taking the disappointment of not sending and still climbing. Being a climber is obsessing about something so completely that you can't sleep because you're thinking about it. Being a climber is finally succeeding.

I'm interested in what other people think of this. Throw it back at me if you think I'm wrong.

Because I believe being a climber means you've joined an exclusive club where you had to earn your way in.

Anyways hope to see you in the boulders tomorrow.

Chow.

Quitting Climbing!

2009-08-10T11:59:00.000-07:00

Really?

No, not really.

I just finished reading the latest Gripped magazine with the article about Thomosina Canada's top female boulderer. Pretty good article with photos from my good buddy/snake Mike Chapman.

(I won't get into the snake part... but Chapman's projects will be available with topo's and directions upon request.)

Anyways, where was I?

Oh yes quitting climbing.

In the article Thomo talks about getting so frustrated that she often quits climbing. Only to come to her senses, usually this realization takes about five minutes.

Well this got me thinking. Why do people quit climbing? I mean there are legit reasons: legs fall off, move to place with no rock or gym, die, plenty of reasonable reasons. Why is it I know five dudes that were sitting on the winning lottery tickets and never cashed in.

Jordan Wright -- a friend of mine -- who just gave up a sport. He was in the one percentile. Here's some facts. He climbed 5.14c, bouldered V13 and won the National championships. A few weeks back after not climbing for a full year climbed Viper with no warm up.

Now I know what your thinking; Big deal Viper! I mean phish that's like V5 whoopie do! Stop, and think about this. Could you go home now sit on your couch for a year, not climbing ever, no hangs, no pullups, then have a friend call you up to hang out. So you bring your brand new super down turned shoes you haven't yet broke in. Then just jump on Viper and climb it with relative ease?

I don't think so fatty!

Vince Chung, campusing climber extraordinaire, just up and quit climbing. Here's a guy that could do everyone of the hard problems I've done in ten years probably in his first few weeks of his climbing. I have no doubt I could call up Vince and he could climb them all in a day or two if he wanted now without climbing for like two years.

Nick Gibbs, Squamish powerhouse, and early developer. This guy was climbing harder than just about everyone is now. And he was doing it as the big fish with no one else to climb with. He up and quit. I hear legends about him doing one arm pull ups on crimps I can't even hold with two feet on.

I met a guy the other day, Mitch. He stopped climbing when he was climbing double digits regularly. I was like what the hell? I'd kill to climb hard.

Oh and it doesn't work drinking the blood of other strong climbers. It doesn't make you stronger. Sorry Vince. Lesson learned.

Stu Worrall, strong climber, major Squamish developer, has just cashed in his chips. Don't know who he is? Pick up your guide book look up the classics and you'll find his name.

So what makes some dudes quit?

Is there chance I can out wait everyone and be the best? I mean that's my only chance.

I'm competitive I'll admit it. I'm also not delusional to think that my pullups and crunches are going to make me the best. I mean I did do like ten this week... combined... with breaks... over a couple of days.

But I might be able to be the best in my catagory. 6'3, 200 pound guys from the Yukon, in Squamish. Maybe just maybe I won't have to quit climbing like those other guys. And I can hang on because I love this sport and not worry about what others are climbing.

Peace!

Squamish Climbing Magazine!

2009-08-01T10:58:00.000-07:00

Check out the brand spanking new Squamish Climbing Magazine.

My boy Bubbles has worked his butt off to put together a stunning new piece of work.

Never Over Stating!

2009-07-23T21:48:00.000-07:00

I don't like to over hype things in life. I like to keep it real.

So when I say this I want you to understand the importance of this news.

Human Control of Fire 400,000 years ago
The Wheel discovered 3700 BC by the Mesopotamia
Algebra invented by ancient Babylonians
Penicillin discovered 1928 by Alexander Fleming

Major discoveries in the history of mankind. Now I bring forth the fifth and most important!

The "I" boulder! How will this boulder change history the same way the other listed above?

Only time will till.

However with 7 new problems and potential for many more this might even have far greater implications then I can list here.

Now to record a little history about this new boulder. Like many great discoveries, I was lost when I stumbled on the boulder. Like Columbus I thought I'd found something different than what it was. I left soon after to try to meet up with my group but knew I had found something special.

A few weeks later coming back with my good friend Mike Chapman we set about cleaning what we hoped would be an awesome problem. Instead we found much much more. First problem up was the super cool "I" squeeze overhang. Then TD joined the party adding a hard sit-start to the "I" and another gem to the left called "Tip Toe". The following day Meshkat, Mike, Bubbles and myself head back adding four more gems. "Row Boat", "Love Boat", "Mast" and "The Mustache Slabs".

When we finish off the last of the classics, I'd be happy to take any willing parties to check out a new out-of-sight boulder.

Bubbles sailing to the second ascent of "Mast"
Photo Courtesy of Meshkat Javid

Challenges

2009-07-18T10:34:00.000-07:00

Anyone who knows me knows that I love a good challenge. Not necessarily a challenge for me to do, but coming up with one for someone else and then insistently bullying them into doing it. Yesterday was another one of those days. Seeing how the weather in Squamish was just shy of boiling, climbing hard projects was near impossible. So we decided to do a points day.

A points day for those who don't know is when you add all your V grades to see how many points you get. i.e. V1 equals one point and so forth. The all time record I've heard of is 307 points in a day without repeating any problems.

Yesterday started off with a bang for me. I had 39 points in under an hour. I was on my way to a decent score, when an old enemy showed up and shut down the day. That's right, my bicep tendinitis is back... Damn!

So instead I spent the next couple hours laying on my back and forcing people into climbing various problems I deemed interesting or exciting. Injury bullying if you want to call it a name.

The points game didn't make it that far what with the scorching hot weather, swelling feet and fingers. So a few hours later everyone had given up on the day and were just hanging out at the black dyke boulder. That's when I decided to throw out an open challenge. How many times could you climb Viper in an hour. I thought 20 would be difficult. But it would get you an unofficial 100 points. No one seemed interested. No matter how much I bullied or used psychological tactics. But finally one guy broke down and decided to give it a go.

T.D. said he'd do it if for nothing else to shut me up about the whole thing and the rest of them could rest in peace. So he started off climbing the problem at an average of 13 seconds a go. I thought he'd slow down but after climbing it exactly the same for the next hour he managed to climb it 60 times with no falls and only one beta change. The rest were almost like I was watching a loop of viper over and over.

Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip. Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip. Chaulk, bump, cross, grab the lip.

Over and over.

The gauntlet has been thrown down. 60 in an hour. On one of the hottest days in recent memory.

Also 300 points in the quickest possible way...

Though offical points rule states: no repeats.

Autobody Video

2009-07-04T20:08:00.000-07:00

Autobody from Matt Lucas on Vimeo.

Tim happened to catch this ascent on film. Hope you enjoy seeing a giant on a tiny problem.

Peace.

Can you dig it!

2009-07-01T20:48:00.000-07:00

Problem X finally goes down! Booya! For those of you who haven't figured it out, problem X is "No Troblems".

Yesterday Janelle and I drove up to Squamish to spend the night in the campground. We are thinking about moving back to Squamish and decided to see what its like to commute so I picked her up from work and drove up at 5. It took 45 minutes with the highway not yet 100% complete. Not bad...

This morning we woke to a super beautiful day. We headed down to the local coffee shop and bought a couple tea mistos. We then took a walk around downtown while we waited for the Canada day parade. Squamish seems like easy living, let me tell you. Right now we're weighing the pro's and con's of Squamish living. Squamish sure put it's best foot forward.

After the parade Janelle and I headed up to the boulders. I took a really long time warming up. But instead of following Thomo, Dave, Regan and the rest of the gang I thought I felt pretty good. So Janelle, Meshkat and I headed over to "No Troblems". I set up pads and brushed the holds and decided that this would be the try. Each move from first to last flowed. No battles, no worries. I punched the jug and knew that I wasn't going to fall. This was my best send in as long as I can remember. Its a glowing ball of happiness that I hope to hold on to for as long as possible.

Thanks to all the people who spotted me.

Problem X, Y, and Z are all put to bed... but like a bad horror series, three new monsters reared their ugly heads! No rest for the wicked. Friday the new battle begins.

Stay tuned!

Do you think your Kung Fu can defeat me?

2009-06-28T23:04:00.000-07:00

Quick Squamish update:

Today, in a truly amazing feet, Rich Kupskay sent "Kung Fu" in the Clean Boulders. After battling the problem over a hundred tries today he finally succeeded.

There has been a rumor going around that I only use this blog to brag, so I won't mention that Rich wouldn't have sent without my key beta. I will say that he showed exceptional fortitude to finally succeed.

All hail the Miura VS!

2009-06-26T22:50:00.000-07:00

Today I went to Climb-On and bought a new pair of Miura VS with problem X in mind. I've been super close but my heel has been progressively peeling. I thought a new shoe might do the trick. Sadly I have the bottom extremely wired but the top keeps dashing my dreams of success.

A little turned off from my lack of success with problem X I met up with TD and filmed a him doing a bunch of problems on the AM boulder. Maybe it was seeing some super hard problems go down easy or maybe it was a nice rest, but after that we walked over to problem Y. We were a bit short in the pad department so falling would not be an option. I pulled on and for once everything went right. Success! Problem Y went down.

Super psyched about sending Auto-Body it didn't feel that hard just foot dependent. I'm going to chalk this up to my new Muira heel and toe. They stuck like glue and I managed not to screw it up.

Pretty gravy day. Sure I didn't do problem X but Auto-Body went down and so did a few other classics as well. All and all a pretty good day.

Right now I'm going to grow some skin and maybe just maybe I might get lucky on Sunday and finally put problem X to bed.

Photo courtesy of Jamie Chong.

So you wanna be a rock star!

2009-06-23T22:36:00.000-07:00

You like all the fame and glory that goes with sending highballs. Just know there are consequences.

Any one wanna try and come up with a flashy title for this pic?

I was thinking: This is what happens when you swallow a softball.

Oh and not my ankle. But I did carry the dude out of the forest.

Problem Z goes down!

2009-06-13T21:17:00.001-07:00

Finally some success to talk about here on the old blog!

Today I managed to put to bed a project that I had a lot of trouble on.

Problem Z aka Bates Motel.

Bit of a battle today as my skin was thin and sweating like crazy.

However I managed to fight the temps and send.

I wouldn't have been able to do it without some great spots from TD and the rest of the cowboys.

I single out TD because he took the people's elbow to the top of the head. I almost knocked him out but he managed to regain his barrings and give a great spot.

Now it's back to project X and Y.

Interesting ideas

2009-06-06T20:02:00.000-07:00

So I was trolling the web when I came across an interesting video.

I think if this is real, it could have some practical uses in climbing and bouldering in particular.
I wonder if it's battery operated?

If you have the time watch the video (it's two parts).

Tonight I'm doing the no rain dance. Weather looks a little suspect for tomorrow.
If however it doesn't rain I'll be heading up to Squamish for some cool temps!

Maybe I'll see you up there.

Promises:

2009-06-03T18:58:00.000-07:00

(photo by Mike Chapman) Awesome representation of Squamish bouldering.

Okay, I know alright. I've been lazy yet again.

I talked about putting up a video but after further review I couldn't bring myself to post it.
The footage is terrible. It was shot with my digital camera (hand held) in a dark forest. So just imagine it was awesome and we'll all leave without disappointment.

So my other promise which I haven't voiced on here, but will do now is...

I'm working on a topo of one or two of my lists. So if your all good boys and girls this might happen in the next few days.

Quick update on project X and Y; came devastating close on project X. Ever get to a move where all you have to grab the jug and all your dreams will come true? I've been there ten times now. Some people would think that it was just a forgone conclusion, sadly I'm the opposite type. I worry that every failure is an opportunity that got away and who knows how many more I have left. I'm going up again tomorrow and I'm going to give it another go. 30 degrees will make it tough but for some bizarre reason I think that if I do it in this heat it will be a champion send.

Oh and a new project might be rearing it's ugly head as well. Project Z just joined the party. I don't know if it was because of the 30 degree weather or if I enjoy trying problems alot. Cool problem though. Might be a soul shatterer if I don't do it next day.

I'm going to make a promise to myself. Start cleaning up these problems now cause its no more mister nice guy! People tell me I climb silent but maybe it's time to put some growl in these attempts!

Oh and I met some cool Austrialians yesterday who have started up a website for people looking for climbing partners. I thought a few of my friends could use this service to meet girls but apparently it's not that type of site. ;-)

Later!

The Block

2009-05-23T22:31:00.000-07:00

It's been a long time since I last posted. I've been climbing quite a bit but sadly I've come to an abrupt halt in my sending. I don't know what it is or why it is but I can't seem to climb anything.

I don't know if this happens to the rest of you? Or if this is just my mental block.

I will profile two problems: I'll call the first one Problem X and the second Problem Y.

Problem X I've been working on now for close to six months. Coming close to sending in the first week. I have done all the moves and have done large sections in links. However after trying the problem almost every climbing day for two months I had yet to send. So I took a break from trying it when the winter rains kicked in. Sadly while climbing indoors I hurt my finger and wasn't able to try the problem in prime conditions. Now that my finger is back, I went out yesterday and tried the Problem X again. Coming within a move of finishing the hard climbing. My fingers tickled the jug which ends the hard climbing and allows for a bit of rest for the easier finish. After a rest day I headed back to finally send the problem. Sadly it wasn't to be a move I found easy the day before all of sudden became very difficult. I don't know why this is or what the heck is going on.

Problem Y is another problem that is proving to be even more frustrating. I tried this problem with the urging of some friends. I figured it was hard and I'd get nowhere. However after watching a friend climb it and getting a full beta spray down I decided to give it a go. First try my foot slipped off the first move, which is fine that happens to everyone. Next try I climbed past the crux exited the roof planted my foot on little chip and found myself reaching for the last move. sadly I came a little short and fell. So I rested a minute jumped on where I fell did the move easy and jumped off to rest a bit more. In my head I thought this thing is in the bag. It's not too difficult and I should do it next go... Today I sit having tried the problem four days now and yet to get back to that same high point. What the heck is going on? I can do all the moves easy. I just can't put it together.

I'm asking all of you, do you people suffer this same problem? Or am I some freak who has a major mental block?

Duncan!

2009-04-27T12:58:00.001-07:00

Howdy!

I know it's been a while since I last posted but I have good reason.

Laziness!

That never works at home but maybe I can pass it off here. I mean what are you going to do stop reading? My mom wouldn't do that.

Quick update.

I haven't given up on the V7 project. The weather hasn't been cooperating. I went up to Squamish last week and found the wettest boulders ever! Okay maybe not ever but it was freaking wet in there. I thought someone had sprayed the boulders with cat food. It was sick in there.

So hopefully tomorrow I'll be back on track.

This weekend I went to the Island to climb. My other friend Tim invited me over to climb up in Duncan.

TD sending a new test piece on the Jackpot boulder.

I've actually been there quite a lot. I think I even heard myself telling someone I'd been there 50 times. Though that sounds like the ramblings of a mad man. More like 20 but who knows I could have blacked out and been there 50 times.

The boulders there are sandstone which is a nice change from the finger tip destroying granite in Squamish.

Saturday morning we planned to meet at Tim's however I was in for a shock. Not only was it Tim but my old basketball teammate Reagan was there along with Liz Mathers. What a surprise. Liz and I used to campus together all the time back when I lived in Victoria. But she moved to the east coast and me to the mainland. So pretty cool.

Regan sending on the pocket problem right.

Sasha, a friend of Tim's, was also along for the trip and was psyched because it was his first time to the boulders. That got me even more psyched because I love the Duncan boulders and it's always awesome to see someone else get psyched on the area as well.

Forty minutes later we made the trip up island and who was waiting for us none other than Squamish powerhouse Brent Mickelson.

Brent giving what-fore on a Duncan problem.

We made the 40 minute hike with little fuss and proceeded to have one awesome day. I managed to do a long time project (stay tuned for Video). And everyone else crushed!

Moving so fast the world blurs!

Awesome day. I'm psyched to go back again this summer and this time take a few more "Mainlanders" over as well.

Back by popular demand!

2009-04-16T18:41:00.000-07:00

I'm on a boat!

Wait, what?

Sorry.

What up gang!

I got an email from one of my forest Ninjas with even more updaTed lIst of extra hard probleMs.

I won't give out the name however if you DO a little creative thinking You'lL figurE it out.

Singularity 14
Zazen V14ish
Black Magic V13
North Ridge V13
Velcro Low V13
The Proposal Extension V13
Unlucky V12
Proposal V12
Pool V12
Swamp Thing V12
Summing Low V12
The Drowning Grip V12
Harry Met Sally V12
Vince Pinch V12
Something Wicked this Way Comes V12
Frontside V12
Agoraphobia V11
Encore Enfois V11
Sharma's Jump Start V11/12 if you don't jump.
Dead End V11
Perfect Cave V11
The Method V11
The Number 19 V11
Lucky Sharma's V11
Stalling Tim V11
Siddhartha V11
The Egg V11
Black Hole V11
One Zen V11
Funeral Arrangements Sit V11
An Hour Late V11
Wormworld Cave Left V11
Send the Pain Below V11
King Swing Low V10
Mo Troblems V10
Lo Troublems V10
Tragedy V10
Sharma's Link V10
Sushi Special V10
Tim's Face Low V10
Backseat V10
Jim Carrey V10
Krishana? V10
Night Crawler V10
Escaping Dilation V10
Mr. Bigglesworth Low V10
Zero Zero V10
Escaping Delirium V10
Black Nails V10
The Other Way V10
King Kong V10
Serpent V10
No Honor Amongst Thieves V10
Wormworld Cave Low V10
Matt's Pinch low V10 (above Fuzz)
Salad Shooter V10
Small Motion V10
Primal Urge V10

Great Escape V10

Great Escape Left V10

Broom V10?
The Seam V10
House of Parliament Sit. V10
Problem to the Right of Resurrection V10/Project sit.
Tyson's V10 by Second Story
SPCA
M11
Bee Sting
Right Of Defenders ?
Muddy Waters
Sid's Secret Life
Blowing Bubbles
Mutual Funds
Project Up
Backside
Disdain
Fuck Hydro
Charmin Ultra
Attack of the Killer Tomatoes
The Thief
Coping
Jason Kehls by Nightcrawler ?
Righty
Creampuff Dream sit
Cliffrords on SACP Boulder ?
Evil Onion
Gibbs cave seam ?
Flat Edge face ?
Pot Belly
Left of Pigs in Zen ?

So another 22 problems to get you psyched! Or depressed if your fat and lazy and just ate your weight in wine gums.

Question

2009-04-08T20:07:00.000-07:00

I wonder if anyone out there knows anything about climbing fitness. I find I'm only good for three tries on any problem in a day. Then I feel exhausted. I mean shouldn't I be able to climb longer then that? So any of you rock superstars know any tricks, scams or drugs to increase my rock stamina.

The 30 day V7 project is proving difficult. I finally did ATD, then proceed to get shut down by the Hummer Traverse and Golden Boy. I fell off the top of Golden Boy 5 times and fall past the crux of the Hummer traverse twice.

This brings me back to my above question, how do I keep climbing longer?

Or does anyone know some three move problems I can look good on?

Another day in paradise

2009-04-04T23:31:00.000-07:00

Yup another climbing post!

There has been some mention that this blog only talks about climbing.

Well that's all I do so... Deal with it.

I could tell you about the latest movies I've watched, the new Punisher movie.

But that movie was freaking terrible.

Dominic West from the T.V. show "The Wire" was in it and still it was unwatchable.

Okay back to more important matters, the V7 project.

Day 2.

It started off well. I did Bali Song first try so I was happy. Bubbles has decide to join the party as well. He made quick work of Bali Song.

It seems likely that Bubbles will do this challenge quite easily. So I say up the stakes! V8 project.

He's going to ruin this for me I just know it. Make my struggle seem laughable...

Anyways he's climbing really well and did four 7's right away. I failed on three others today.

ATD where I couldn't roll the lip, after getting there 5 times, Stinger Direct where my left hand wouldn't allow me to hold on without excruciating pain and Buff where I did the first two moves but couldn't stomach the left hand crimp again. Bubbles made quick work of each of these and passed me in the challenge in one day. Yikes!

But maybe I'll have my revenge tomorrow. Don't hold your breath though.

Squamish Tomorrow!

2009-03-21T15:52:00.000-07:00

Man have I been lazy lately. My finger is still bothering me, so I haven't been climbing in the gym. With spring break going on the Y where I work out has been swarming with young punks so I've been avoiding the gym.

So instead I've been hanging at home watching March Madness. NCAA is showing all the games for free on the internet. This is the best basketball period; close games, exciting finishes, underdogs, and upsets.

That being said it's super windy right now and it looks like it's going to nice tomorrow. I'm heading to Squamish tomorrow.

I earlier talked about a new goal. Well I'm calling it the V7 project. 30 V7's in 30 climbing days.

Here's a list I came up with thinking about possible 7's.

1) Fuzz
2) Air Tight Garage
3) Stinger direct
4) Inubuis
5) Be On Four
6) Black Slabath
7) Crank Shaft
8) Fixing the Car
9) ATD
10) El Camino
11) Immunity Challenge
12) Quick Stick
13) Stand up to Sit down to Holm Boy
14) Square Cut Low
15) Mindbender
16) King Swing
17) Hummer Traverse
18) Sonnies Problem
19) Golden Boy
20) Masterplan
21) This Monkey
22) Buff
23) Coffee Girl
24) First Nation Giver
25) Sticky Fingers
26) Breakfast At Tiffany's
27) Bubbaharridus
28) Corrupted
29) Shield
30) Masturbator
31) Worm World
32) First Nation Giver
33) Sniper
34) Five Stitches
35) Squealing Pork
36) Dynamite
37) Humming Bird
38) House of Parliament
39) Ladies Man
40) Angry Elf
41) Green Traverse
42) Rockefeller Roof (broken)
43) Trent's Problem past Ride the lightning
44) Animal Magnesium
45) Last Man Standing
46) White Trash
47) Red Sea into Isrealya
48) Ray-men Raw
49) Traverse on the left side of the Ol' Gite boulder

It's going to be tough doing 30 I know there' s a few problems on the this list. However a lot of these are a little suspect.

See you guys tomorrow!

New Project.

2009-03-07T20:36:00.000-08:00

What's up gang?

I climbed yesterday in Squamish with Mike, Tyson, Jay, Dan and Georg. Judging by the guys I climbed with yesterday you can imagine that it was a tough day for your dear writer. I warmed up then watched Georg and Dan try "Harry met Sally" which forced my inner Spray whore out in full force.

I think the guys got tired of me suggesting beta and made demands for me to put up or shut up.
So I strapped on my shoes and gave my flash attempt to it...

Half a millisecond later I was back on the pad quite pleased with my first attempt. My butt had lifted off the ground.

Second try I touched the first hold before crashing back to earth again.

Third try... Success!

Ya right! As if. And monkeys flew out of my butt dragging me to the top.

This day was going to be a struggle. All the plans for the day involved v11's 12's or open projects. In other words things I'll be lucky to do moments before the moon crashes into the earth changing earths gravity to make me feel light as a feather.

Next up Agoraphobia V11 with soul crushing crimps. My left middle finger, already dealing with a pulley tear, wasn't looking forward to those holds. We met up with Tyson and Jay over warming up on "Boat"(Squamish Classic). Tyson was jazzed to do "Agoraphobia" . So we set down the pads and got to work. Georg almost flashed it but was spit off by bad beta shouted from the peanut gallery.

I was quiet I swear... Or at least I didn't yell for him to hike his foot so high. I was yelling hand beta at that point. So not my fault.

Tyson jumped on next and cruised to the top with little drama and smooth style.

Jay next with a little more grunt but also in easy fashion.

Dan was super close. One more day and he'll send for sure. Georg sabotaged by faulty beta never really tired hard after that and was happy to watch me pull on and fall off over and over.

Though I consider it a personal send being able to hang on all the holds within reach of the ground.

Mike, also making a come back from a finger injury, was close.

Next up was an open project near "Fun Factory". Sort of a way harder left hand version of "This Monkey's Gone to Heaven". A couple hard pulls to a good in-cut side pull. Then a huge lunge to a small crimp five feet away. Tyson, Jay, Dan, Mike and Georg all crushed the opening moves to the throw position.

I was a close sixth with pulling on and touching the first hold.

Georg using his superior wing span and freakish strength got close to grabbing the crimp before raking off a couple of times. The rest weren't far behind when compared to me.

We headed to the problem past "Worm World Cave" the cave put up by Trent Hoover's friend.

Problem needs a name.

I tried this a couple of weeks ago with Tyson and Georg. The first move seemed to be the crux and each of us were having trouble sticking the first move.

However the next time we came back Tyson and Georg both stuck the move first go. What the hell? I'm still in the same crappy can't go anywhere but a circle boat. Georg quickly got to the lip before jumping down claiming the top was too wet. Tyson worked it a couple more tries before getting to the lip and deciding that it wasn't and he was going to turn it regardless of the swamp like conditions. Jay sent a couple tries after that. Georg in the middle of all this decided that the low start wasn't hard enough and ripped the starting crimp off the wall with his massive hands. I mean why do a v14 when you can make it V15.

Dan and Mike had called it a day with Mike taking photos and Dan heckling Georg for good measure.

I spent the remaining time trying to break my hip by falling in the worst possible place.

Needless to say fun day but I don't think I did a single move on any of the problems all day.

Look out for my new list. I'm going to set a project that I can do or at least get some climbing in trying.

A New World Record!

2009-02-21T19:46:00.000-08:00

I hate to overstate, but today something historic happened.
10 million BC man invents fire, 4 AD Jesus Christ is born, 1492 Columbus discovers America, 1969 man walks on moon, and now today Jamie Chong climbs the Seven Terrors!

I'll be able to tell my children one day, I was there to witness it. What makes this event truly amazing is that it all started innocently. We were over at Razorburn and Jamie just happened to walk by. I mentioned casually that Razorburn happened to be on the terror list. He laced up his rock shoes almost instantly. While most would shy away from a terror, Jamie attacked with full force. I was a bit surprised to be honest. Most spend years training for something this monumental. But he fought and struggled and flashed his way up Razorburn. Once he reached the top I knew it was on. It was a matter of strength, will and determination, and he had all those.

After he battled through Razorburn we headed over to Good As Gold. Almost instantly Jamie was humbled by the task he had undertaken. After an hour of silent meditation, he had to come to grips with his fears and met his task head on.

Next up BAD DAY LOW. The stopper, the widow maker, the one, the only, the devil in disguise. I won't lie that I had doubts it was going to happen. Upon his first try it was apparent that BDL wasn't going to give it up easy, he was going to have to fight. Dig deep, exorcise his demons. One try later he was at the top. A little shaky but ready for more.

Ol' Gite and Cream Puff Dream fall quickly but with drama all the same. Jamie was joined by his life partner Sara who help him keep his emotions together. At this point the light was failing so we rushed to Original Worm World where Jamie was successful though not without beta shouted from the growing masses.

The end was in sight. Only Pat Crapped At (aka first of the Seven Terrors) remained, with little light and a horde of fans watching as Jamie battled up the last and ironically the first of the Seven Terrors.

At first words escaped him. Humbled by his achievement he thanked his sponsors, his girl friend, his fans and lastly most of all Matthew.

Now we wait and see if this can be repeated like the four minute mile where the barrier was broken and quickly repeated less than a week later. Or will this be the long jump record that lasts 25 years. Only time will tell. But history will remember today.

Problems I'll never climb.

2009-02-18T19:52:00.001-08:00

I thought just for fun I'd see if I could name all the V10's and above in Squamish.

Singularity 14
Zazen V14ish
Black Magic V13
North Ridge V13
Velcro Low V13
The Proposal Extension V13
Unlucky V12
Proposal V12
Pool V12
Swamp Thing V12
Summing Low V12
The Drowning Grip V12
Harry Met Sally V12
Vince Pinch V12
Something Wicked this Way Comes V12
Frontside V12
Agoraphobia V11
Encore Enfois V11
Sharma's Jump Start V11/12 if you don't jump.
Dead End V11
Perfect Cave V11
The Method V11
The Number 19 V11
Lucky Sharma's V11
Stalling Tim V11
Siddhartha V11
The Egg V11
Black Hole V11
One Zen V11
Funeral Arrangements Sit V11
An Hour Late V11
Wormworld Cave Left V11
Send the Pain Below V11
King Swing Low V10

Mo Troblems V10
Lo Troublems V10
Tragedy V10
Sharma's Link V10
Sushi Special V10
Tim's Face Low V10
Backseat V10
Jim Carrey V10
Krishana? V10
Night Crawler V10
Escaping Dilation V10
Mr. Bigglesworth Low V10
Zero Zero V10
Escaping Delirium V10
Black Nails V10
The Other Way V10
King Kong V10

Serpent V10

No Honor Amongst Thieves V10
Wormworld Cave Low V10
Matt's Pinch low V10 (above Fuzz)
Salad Shooter V10
Small Motion V10
Primal Urge V10

Great Escape V10

Great Escape Left V10

Broom V10?
The Seam V10
House of Parliament Sit. V10
Problem to the Right of Resurrection V10/Project sit.
Tyson's V10 by Second Story.

All grades are just guesses by someone who hasn't even tried most of these problems.
Apparently there are a few more done in the north walls that I don't know the names of.
All Photos stolen from Mike Chapman.

The Spray Whore!

2009-02-15T22:47:00.000-08:00

I thought I'd admit one of my many sins here on this blog. Yes I'm finally coming clean.

My name is Matthew and I'm a Spray Whore. It's a disease.

I'll spray you down with beta at a moments notice. I've grown over the years, not as bad as my rookie year, but I'm still brutal.

I remember when I first started climbing. I knew the beta for almost every established climb in Squamish. I could give you ten different variations for the classics. If you tried it and I saw you fail I'd shout across the forest the proper way.

It was so bad I walked into a party one time that turned out to be an intervention. They told me they loved me but I'd have to quit spraying or they wouldn't talk to me anymore.

So I went underground. I got subtle... sort of. Now I just allow you to try and patiently wait for you to fail. Then kindly offer my assistance. (Though inside I'm shaking, dying to blurt out the sequence)

This weekend I had an epiphany.... Tim can figure problems out on his own. I'm no longer making him look good with my secret genius.

Sure I know how to help you do it. Hell it might even be easier if I tell you. But I'm no longer going to steal another persons journey.

I'm going cold turkey.

Admitting one has a problem is the first step to recovery.

It's Go Time! again...

2009-02-11T12:07:00.000-08:00

Futures so bright I gotta wear shades!

Too bad my finger is F'd!

But I'm going anyways I don't even care...

I'm reminded of the movie "Boyz n the Hood" When Doughboy says "I'm going to the store."
And the other kids are like "you don't have any money". Doughboy's all "I'm going anyways."

That's me and Squamish. Though instead of ending up in the back of a police car, I'll just whine about my injury later to anyone who will listen.

Bad Day Low Strikes Again!

2009-01-26T11:49:00.000-08:00

I don't know what to tell you, there are no excuses. Perfect weather, in shape (relative), plenty of time, nothing.

Shot down, shot down like a clown. I warmed up, I warmed up quite good really. Then headed over to BDL. It was dry, no snow on the top, and felt grippy. I hung on the first move. I thought it was in the bag. 40 tries later I was defeated.

With my head hanging low I climbed the problem beside BDL and spied a new slab that had recently been cleaned. So, I thought a new problem is just the cure for my ego. So I walk up the hill and saw to my dismay that the problem was quite low angle. Maybe 5.6 at the most. A complete waste of my time... (But I'll do it anyways).

First thing I learned is 5.6 can be tricky when it's not 5.6 and it's a lot taller than I originally thought. I climbed to a good stance and realized no more hands and no down climbing. My pad was folded at the bottom so I wouldn't have to step in snow and now I'm facing a ankle breaking fall or a dicey slab dyno (with no hands and a sloppy lip).

Ever get stuck on a problem with no one around? Gives you time to think.

Like: If I yell loud enough will someone coming running?

Will they tell everyone that I'm stuck on a 5.6 slab?

Can I jump and not break something?

Will this dyno to the slopey dirty lip stick?

Can I jump that far?

Why did I stop training my vertical?

Whats for dinner tonight I wonder?

"Fuck" "Shit" "Fuck Shit" "Oh God!"

So long story short I stuck the lip and rushed down to find the nearest someone to trick into climbing it. I was planning my words:

"Awesome new slab"

"climbs so good"

"Super Easy"

It took another day but I got Tim and Mike to climb it. It was even fun to heckle from the sidelines while they stood in that good stance thinking all the same things I did. Though it might have been harder to concentrate with me laughing.

Squamish Tomorrow!

2009-01-22T22:01:00.000-08:00

Sorry for the long delay. But I'm back in business, Squamish tomorrow! My finger is a little messed up but I'm going anyways. This is my favorite time of the year for climbing. Cold, dry, high friction days.

The goal tomorrow is the infamous problem "Bad Day Low". I've tried this problem more than any single problem in the forest. I know that's saying a lot, however, this problem has shut me down more than anything else. There might be a reason it's on my "Squamish terrors list".

Well, wish me luck. And no negative thoughts even if your going to be sitting behind a desk tomorrow.

Peace.

Big White.

2008-12-16T14:22:00.000-08:00

Hey there kids!

Well just got back from four days of snowboarding at Big White.

We left early Friday and drove the five hours to the mountain. The roads along the way were either slushy or covered in ice and snow. So it was a tense drive most of the way up. I spent a good portion white knuckle driving and telling Janelle to be quiet so we didn't drive off the road. It was fun to feel the traction control kick in and drift around corners at 120 km's and hour. But we made it.

When we arrived it was puking snow. Which was a very good thing. I believe the day before we left they only had two runs open. By the time we got there they had received 40 cm's of snow in 24 hours. Saturday morning I forced Janelle up for the first runs of the day. It was a powder day so I wanted to get some runs in before it got all tracked out. By the end of the day they had opened 32 runs and it snowed all day! Awesome.

I broke in my new board literally! By the last run of the day I had snapped my binding off, but it was an easy fix. So the next day it called for sunny weather and cold temps. And they weren't lying. -15 and windy at the top! Which changed the whole mountain. It went from a powder paradise to hard packed groom everything freezing hellhole! Ok that's a bit harsh but it wasn't as awesome as the day before. And the cold was a bit much.

Still got lots of runs in and had a fun time riding by myself. Janelle ditched me for the bunny hill. She wanted to work on her turns and steal free lessons from unsuspecting ski school instructors.

That night we went out for dinner and drinks. But we ended up being kick out of the local pub because it was a white on white party and my skin pigmentation didn't fit in! Or at least that's what I thought she said. White's only. That and they were only serving Molson Canadian Beer. Fuck, I'd rather drink water from L.A.

The next morning it was all me again snowboarding by myself while Janelle spent the morning shopping and drinking warm drinks. Not a bad idea seeing as it was -20 at the top of the mountain, windy and hard as a rock. I took about five runs and called it a day. I thought my face was going to freeze off. I got whipped by my lift ticket. Hit me right in the nose. Hell I thought it had cut the thing in half it hurt so much, though the ski patrol refused to heli me off the top of the mountain. Jerks!

So now I'm back in sunny and warm Vancouver... wait a minute! It's freezing here too. Well, I'll just jack the heat in the condo and watch Bay Watch reruns and daydream I'm in some sunny paradise.

Chow!

Thinking about Ones Self and Their Place in the World.

2008-11-21T23:11:00.001-08:00

So today I was sitting around watching Comedians on Youtube and I got to thinking about my place in the world. I asked myself am I important to society? Sure I consume as good as the next guy, i.e., Iphone, Audi, and every new gadget under the sun. Hell I'm writing this on my Mac Book Pro, but am I do anything for the betterment of the world.?

I make movies. Or I work on Movies. It brings enjoyment into the world. Or at least some movies. Not the ones I work on. There are a hundred percent crap. Sorry!

So as I sit here with one too many Long Island Ice Teas in me I ask the world and myself what can I bring to this world that hasn't been seen before?

I'm at a loss.

But I can say I haven't quit. I think back to the 90's and a song about wearing Sun Screen (Songs pretty terrible). That's me or will be. Forty and don't know what to do with my life. But at least I'll be interesting.

Yesterday it was announced that Einstein's theory of Relativity was proven correct! 103 years later. Talk about leaving a lasting effect on the world.

Now I know I'll never prove great theorems. Or invent or cure.

But I ask myself Can I find a place in this world?

Can I?

Window in a storm!

2008-11-15T23:09:00.001-08:00

Friday November 14th will go down as one of the nicest climbing days in a long time. I will remember it well. I had Squamish all to myself. Literally! No one around. I was shocked!

I tried to convince a few people to go up. Most either didn't believe or had to work. So I was left climbing by myself. I was super psyched to go try my project but alas an important crimp was wet. I tried to dry it with my t-shirt and a ton of chalk.... but it was seeping. Numerous of tries, but no joy. That and one scary fall off of the crimp that spat me off and away from the pads into a hole of rock and nastiness. But I lived! Or they Live! Ala Roddy Roddy Piper! Good John Carpenter movie.

So as it sits I'm watching the weather waiting for another awesome window because even though my project was wet, lots of other problems weren't. After two hours of battling a wet hold I decided to do a circuit of classics. 50 points later I had a rad day.

Well next week looks promising. Hope it works out! And maybe with a little luck I'll get another crack at my endless project!

Cheers!

Old Climbing Video

2008-11-12T19:14:00.000-08:00

Squamish Bouldering 2001 from Matt Lucas on Vimeo.

Just an old Video that I edited with Janelle's parents mac in 2001. Quality... Or not. Some funny glitches and weird pops but pretty good clarity. Hope you all enjoy. Oh it's long so I hope you went to the bathroom before you started it!

No Leavenworth!

2008-11-07T16:38:00.000-08:00

Bubbles and I had planned on going down to Leavenworth this long weekend. But the weather decided to totally fuck us. (Can I say that on this do people get offended by such a word? Well fuck if I care!... Just kidding.)

So now I'm stuck in rainy Vancouver with no climbing aside from the gym. Talk about lame.

I missed a small window on Wednesday. I had to drive Janelle to the airport and see her off. My friends in Squamish rubbed in the fact I missed that day. So now I'm sitting here wondering if I'll see another climbing day outside in Squamish this year. Outlook... bleak!

But Janelle and I did book a four day getaway to Big White! Which I'm pretty psyched about let me tell you. I hope they have tons of powder and great conditions. I mean if we can't climb because of the weather might as well get good snow out of the deal. That and I got a new snowboard this year and kit.

So today I worked out by myself. Talk about hard. I'm freaking lazy when it comes to that sort of stuff... or pretty much anything. So I had to dig really deep and find my inner beast. I thought of Ronnie Coleman and him doing 400 pound flies. Makes my 100 not seem so bad. I managed to finish my workout with minimal tears and only one nap.

Right now I'm on stand by. I'm like a Chuck Norris doll just break the glass when there's a global crisis and it's go time for him. Same for me... Just with dry climbing and free food!

Peace!

Couple of Weeks and Still No Success

2008-10-29T11:43:00.000-07:00

Hey Kids!

I've been trying my project for the last month and still no success! Talk about annoying. I've fallen 6 times now past the crux and it's sucking my psych. I must say that the temps in Squamish were some of the best I've had all year. Yesterday was painfully close but it was a high stress day. Surprisingly the tension in the forest could have been cut with a knife. I won't go into details but it was by far the strangest day possibly ever. Fist fights, screaming and Brent buying a van that you can actually drive.

It looks like the rain has come. Super sad I love the cold dry conditions. I guess I'm going to have to head back into the gym. This year I plan to really train. So watch out campus board your about to get your stress limit tested. How many times has it had 220 pounds trying to tear it from the wall. I set a goal last year but lost track of it early. This coming new year is going to be different. Double digits this year!... (hotdogs in one sitting)

What's New.

2008-10-17T16:57:00.000-07:00

Well it's been a while since I last posted. Almost so long that probably no one checks this anymore.

Well after New Zealand I got back to Vancouver for 7 days and flew to Germany with Janelle for a month.

Janelle had a work conference in Berlin that I tagged along to. While she spent the days learning all about Trademarks I hung out in the city. Pretty cool place if I do say so myself. After 7 days of German beer and plenty of awesome sights Janelle's conference came to an end and we set out to sight see the rest of Europe... or so it felt at times.

We next stopped in Venice, Italy. Which if you haven't been too, I might put it on my pass list. It's beautiful don't get me wrong. But crowded, smelly and freaking expensive. We spent two days there and thousands of dollars. Or so it felt like. Stupid Euro. St. Mark's is very nice but walking in a huge line-up through the whole thing leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

But we escaped and headed to Rome which I really liked. We didn't stay in a hotel this time. Janelle found a super nice apartment a block away from the Colosseum which we spent four nights in. It was bigger (with living room and kitchen) and cheaper then the two nights in Venice. In Rome we saw everything. I mean everything. I didn't need to see the Pope changing but for a couple extra bucks you can do anything. I'd list off all the places but it's been months now and I know I went to Vatican and Colosseum and pretty much every where in between.

Next up we flew to the south of France. Nice, which sadly was pouring with rain. No topless beaches! So instead we rented a car and drove to Annott. I heard there was awesome Sandstone bouldering there. Of course it was raining there too. So one night in a hotel and we were off the next day to Cannes. I was hoping to pitch a movie deal... Instead I went to watch Indian Jones. I won't leave a review here. But... Aliens? Seriously?

We saw the sights and did the classic tourist stuff. I got drunk and complained that no one spoke English. But what's traveling without a black eye and good ass kicking from the locals.

Next up we jumped on a train to Marseilles where we spent two days trying to figure out what to do in a French Rivera town where the weather is crap and you don't eat seafood. But we had a good time and drank our fair share of wine. Or at least I did. Not my fault she's a slow drinker. She didn't grow up up north.

So Next Up, Fountainbleu! Where everyone who knows me knows I freaking love that place!
The best bouldering in the whole world in my humble opinion. We booked a gite for two weeks and rented another car for the same time as well. All we needed was good weather and I was sure I'd be ripping it up in no time. The weather pulled through too bad my arms didn't. New Zealand had left a lasting effect on me. Bicep tendinitis! Damn it. Now if anyone out there has ever had this they know it freaking sucks. Feels like your arms are dying. But I struggled through for the next two weeks mostly climbing slabs and old classics I'd done 6 years earlier. But on our rest days we traveled into Paris to sight see and hang out. Good times. I really like Paris. Though driving in it is another thing all together. Janelle can't navigate to save her life. But we had fun.

So now I'm back in Canada. Three months of physio and tons of training. I'm slowly trying to get in some form of shape.

I have one huge project right now that I've been working on quite a lot lately. I fell four times passed the crux last day. So I'm starting to feel like it might actually go. Hopefully by next week at this time if the weather turns I might have a psyched post for everyone to read.

Chow.

New Zealand Bouldering Video

2008-05-10T21:48:00.000-07:00

Play by Play

2008-04-24T18:07:00.001-07:00

Hey there one and all!
So I thought I'd give you guys a run down of what's been shaking down here in the NZ.

So I've been in Castle Hill New Zealand about 45 days now. Climbing two days on one day off.
When I first got here I was amazed with the amount of rock I could see. It surrounds you as you sit in the center of the Castle Hill Valley. What I didn't know having never climbed on limestone before is that it doesn't make for a lot of holds. So there maybe 15000 boulders. But 90% of them are blank or short little mantles. But and this is a big but there all is a whole lot of world class problems as well. There just not as close to one another as one would hope for.

I landed here and my good buddy Pete picked me up at the airport and we drove the hour and half drive to the boulders. As we rolled into Spittle Hill the sun was setting and I was psyched! It's so beautiful it's crazy. It's like Lord of the Rings! But it was also to dark to go walk around so I had to save it for the next day.

The next day we headed into Spittle Hill the closest of all the areas. And got straight to work. What I learned right away that the rings and dips I'd been doing for the last 4 months didn't help with the slick feet. The wind or just the number of people climbing here has made for some scary polished feet. So no amount of upper body strength is going to help when you press up into a slab. But I managed a couple problems.
So the next day we picked up Tim.

I'm getting kicked off the computer right so I'll finish this later needless to say I am awesome and I climbed all my projects and had a wonderful time.

Another Blog!

2008-04-10T18:59:00.000-07:00

What's up people! Or Person! You know who know who you are. So Another week another cold. Damnit! So We went down to the Hulk Hogan climbing area, Kind of cool but not enough to keep all the little Hulksters happy. We only spent one day there. Then back to Castle Hill.

I have been away now for a month. And only three weeks left. I'm having a good time though I don't know how I'll describe this place when I get back. Cool looking but the problems aren't that aesthetic. That and rumors of 15000 problems are way over exaggerated. I mean if you count every rock as a problem then maybe. But I'm guessing in the main area there is only 400 problems.

Flock Hill is very cool and the place with the best looking lines. Though it is an hour up hill hike everyday.

I'm climbing cool stuff. And hope top do a project or two before I go.

No Pictures today stupid internet. Sorry Next time.

Later.

New Zealand Pic's and Update.

2008-03-28T16:55:00.000-07:00

Howdy All! Or my mom as she's the only one who looks at this.

So I've been in New Zealand about ten days now. Down in the South Island about an hour and half outside of Christchurch. In a place called Castle Hill.

I've been hanging out with a couple friends.

Pete and Tim.

We've been bouldering alot since we've got here. And let me tell you, the style here is hard. Mantles, Pockets, Sleek feet, and tall problems. So all and all it makes for a lot of fun with a couple of tears in between.

Well one of the funny things about Castle Hill is that it has mountain Parrots. Called Kai's. Smart little buggers. They work in teams and eat just about anything. Just ask Pete who got his thermarest eaten. So we learned fast not to leave food in our tents or say just outside our van.

Tim, Pete and myself bought a 1989 Toyota van. Quite the gem! But it runs good and if all works out well we can sell it when we leave and get back all our money... Yeah right! But it's a plan. The insurance here is so cheap. 12 dollars a month. Nice! But gas cost 1.84 a liter. so that's not cheap.
But Brad is showing up today and we'll make him pay for gas until he leaves. Or throws a fit and we agree to split it four ways.

Well I'm off to buy a bagel and maybe get a drink catch you all in a couple days.

Wedding Pictures

2008-03-17T00:23:00.000-07:00

A Ride in the park.

A power house of a best man.

Australia Weddings

2008-03-16T15:50:00.000-07:00

So a quick 15 hour flight and I'm down under. One strip search, and my friends picked me up and straight to a suit fitting and refit. Apparently everyone in Australia are Tyrannosauruses Rex's.

Short arm freaks!

After some quick fixes I was off to the rehearsal. A few dodged bullets and one angry ex. I've made out with only a seven year coma. Then out for pints and eats. Few! The next morning I got up super early and went surfing. Though I forgot sun screen on my legs. So third degree burns on my legs. And a evening of crying.

Garrett, Graham, Gerritt and myself all found ourselves some drinks and spent the evening trying to kill Garrett. Having Garrett jump off a forty cliff in the pitch dark where the ocean underneath was full of sea urchins.

Good times.

Another day and another wedding! Good times free drinks! Maybe too many drinks. I made the best man speech. Then the true best man made a better speech. So in the end it all worked out for the best.

Well tomorrow I head to New Zealand for the bouldering part of my trip.

Updating soon.

Leaving tomorrow!

2008-03-10T11:08:00.000-07:00

I'm out of here! See ya rainy crappy weather. Hello dry New Zealand.
So I have a quick stop in Australia. I have some best man duties to preform. A couple speeches, A couple drinks, and hopefully a ton of laughs. My good buddy Garrett is jumping of that metaphorical cliff called marriage. I'm pretty psyched for this wedding. Garrett is totally insane and has all the grooms men wearing brown suits and there's word of a pirate ship. That and folks down-under love a party. So hopefully I don't fall completely out of shape. Well hopefully next post I'll have some pictures from the wedding or I'll be in Christchurch and have some bouldering pics. Instead I'll post a picture of Patrick Swayze.

One Month to go!

2008-02-12T22:55:00.000-08:00

Count down is in full affect. So I've been training like a headless chicken! Running, rings, pushups, situps and tons of climbing. I'm a little worried about Castle Hills style of climbing. Tons of mantles. Which everyone knows (who climbs with me anyways) that I'm terrible at mantles. So hence the rings and pushups. Hopefully I can bang one or two off in two months. I'll start posting more the closer I get to take off. And then as much as I can while I'm down there.

Just thought I'd post a Video of John.

2007-11-13T20:30:00.000-08:00

John a few years ago. :)

Well I'm Back.... Blah!

2007-04-09T21:02:00.000-07:00

That's right it's all over. I'm back and I'm back to work tomorrow. God damn. So it was a good trip. Tons of fun three months of surf sand and boulders. So if you're pumped for me to go on another trip just send me more money and I'll take off tomorrow. Anyways right now in the works is South Africa for the middle of August. Anyone interested coming just sign up.

Grampians Pictures

2007-04-02T22:41:00.000-07:00

Grampians
My two week Home
He-Man
Kangaroo Jack
Kangaroo Jack became Kangaroo Splat.

Grampians Update

2007-04-01T20:17:00.000-07:00

Well I've been here a week and have one more to go. Sent some hard problems fall off a lot more. But it's been good times. That is to say smashing my rental car into a Kangaroo wasn't,little bastard. Cost me 300 bucks. There is a good reason why you get the extra insurance, otherwise I would have been out. a couple grand. I'll post pictures tomorrow tonight I'm just recharging my Ipod. It's weird here I haven't seen one other boulder. So the high balls might have to wait. I'll write more tomorrow. The Wheel of Life waits for no one.

Update Time!

2007-03-22T18:19:00.000-07:00

Well I thought I'd let everyone know that I'm slowly coming to an end here in Australia. Just over two weeks left and I'm heading down to the Grampians for my last two weeks. All climbing all the time. In other words a whole lot of not bathing. They have campgrounds but no water at them. They recommend that you bring four liters of water a day. Looks like I'll be making a few trips into town. Either that or see how long my Nalgene can last.

Also my surfing here in Oz has come to an end as well. I had to have Janelle take my board home because I didn't want to carry it around with me in the Gramps and It would have been too much stuff to carry on the plane. So two and a half months surfing and I improved enough that instead of Punching me and cutting my lease (Point Break) they just slash at me to try and draw sharks.

I mean Keanu Reeves can learn to do cut backs and floaters in a week. What the hell happened to me. Maybe I need to find Patrick Swayze.

The Mars Volta Concert

2007-03-15T17:18:00.000-07:00

Well last night was The Mars Volta concert and it just might have been the best show I've ever been too. They played for over 2 hours and shook the freaking building to the ground. Awesome.

Some Pics Of Tasmania

2007-03-13T19:36:00.000-07:00